This Clausing 8520 followed my home

J

jlchapman

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I finally have a milling machine. I'm helping a lady at work selling the contents of her late Father's shop. I ended up buying the Clausing 8520. Its a little ruf around the edges, but I can fix that with time and money. It came with a lot of tooling, big NBK vise, and a Phase II 8" Rotary table. I paid $800 for everything.
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The first thing I want to fix is the pulley on the motor. The motor was replaced and the pulley is not the original. It only has one belt position. The speeds seem awful fast in the lowest setting. Where can I buy a new pulley that is a two step? What sizes should they be? My motor shaft is .625.

The other thing driving me nuts is the belt adjustment knob up on top. When the mill is on it shakes like crazy and makes a bunch of noise. Looks like the knob has seen better days, maybe bush it?

Terrywerm - I saw your post about the brake cam and handle. I checked mine has the brake. That is the next project to be completed. Thanks for posting the pdf and the post showing how you did it.
 
jlchapman said:
I finally have a milling machine. I'm helping a lady at work selling the contents of her late Father's shop. I ended up buying the Clausing 8520. Its a little ruf around the edges, but I can fix that with time and money. It came with a lot of tooling, big NBK vise, and a Phase II 8" Rotary table. I paid $800 for everything.
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Nice and with vise and rotary table you stole that thing.. Just kidding, I know she probably wanted you to have it after helping.

Good score.
Looks like just an on/off. is the motor single or 3 phase?
Mine had bearing issues in the pulley's and the X you may want to check just to make sure everything is as good as it looks.
BTW YOU SUCK
 
Thanks woochucker! I like your Kennedy tool box you restored.

The motor is a single phase. I also found the original switch, just dont know if its any good

Jerry
 
on the middle pulley check the bearings. mine were bad and made a terrible noise. they are cheap at the auto parts store.i would look for a smaller vise. I have a 4" b&s on mine picked it up at a gun show.
 
Well I fixed the belt knob that was bouncing around making noise. Only to discover as bob308 and woochucker suggested to check the bearings. The top bearing(below belt knob) was locked up. Of course this wallowed out the aluminum pulley at least to 33mm( the outside of the bearing is 32mm). Any suggestions how to fix the pulley? I have the top and bottom bearings coming. There is lots of material around the top bearing, can that be bored out and put some type of spacer between the pulley and bearing? The shaft is fine. Any other suggestions or ideas how to fix it? Thanks!
 
jlchapman said:
Well I fixed the belt knob that was bouncing around making noise. Only to discover as bob308 and woochucker suggested to check the bearings. The top bearing(below belt knob) was locked up. Of course this wallowed out the aluminum pulley at least to 33mm( the outside of the bearing is 32mm). Any suggestions how to fix the pulley? I have the top and bottom bearings coming. There is lots of material around the top bearing, can that be bored out and put some type of spacer between the pulley and bearing? The shaft is fine. Any other suggestions or ideas how to fix it? Thanks!
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Depending on how damaged the race is, I tried to fit in a feeler gauge, but it didn't work out. So I kept cutting , made it larger, filled it with an aluminum plug, perm loctite and press fit in, then recut a new bore for a tight fit.
If yours is slightly wallowed, you may be able to dimple the inside of the race with a punch, create enough of them to hold it tight. BTW I used C2 replacement bearings. I think that the spec is wrong. I think that is why they are having a tough time. I think CN or C3 would be better. This is not a critical area, like the tables which definitely would require c2 bearings. C2 has less clearance than normal, and c3 more.. Since they are spinning at speed, I think c3 would be better.
 
Its wallowed beyond the dimple the inside of the race. I'm just a beginner when it comes to machining. This may be beyond my skill set. I'm assuming you bored out the bearing race using your lathe. What material for your aluminum Plug? When making a press fit in aluminum what kind of tolerances due I need? I have Perm Loctite 242, is there a different loctite for aluminum? If you would please, give very detailed steps of the process. Then I would have to decide whether to take this on or not. The last thing I want to do is ruin a pulley that is almost impossible to get.

I have a Central Machinery 12 x 36 lathe and a South Bend 9 model A(going through a rebuild). I have the tooling required for boring, outside micrometers, inside telescoping gages. Dake arbor press. I'll have to order some larger aluminum for the plug and try some of what I need to do on scrap aluminum before machining on the pulley.

Thanks,

Jerry
 
Jerry,

I don't recall the part number and it may not still be what I can't recall anyway. But there is a Loctite product that used to be called something like "Bearing & Bushing" I think that it was green.

Bore the pulley out about 1/4" to 1/2" on the diameter (assuming that there is enough "meat" in the casting to do that). So that the sleeve wall thickness when finished will be at least 1/8". If the pulley is keyed, the plug wall thickness should be greater than the depth of the key slot

For the interference fit, I don't know what the shaft diameter is nor what the hole diameter will be after boring. But probably something between 0.0002" and 0.0010" interference. Machinery's Handbook has a whole chapter devoted to Fits. I would also suggest cutting the ID of the plug under size and making a slip fit driver to do the assembly with. Finish bore the repaired pulley after the Loctite has cured. Then broach the new keyway if it has one.
 
I chucked the pulley up in my lathe. Used the dial indicator and got the runout to .005, the best I could get it. I bored out the bad race by 2mm, its now 34mm, it used to be 32mm. I didn't have aluminum that large so I used some 12L14 steel and made a sleeve. The sleeve is 32mm id and 34mm od. Everything seems to be good. I attached some pictures. Why could'nt I use a steel sleeve instead of aluminum? Now I have to wait for bearings. The bottom bearing is on its last leg also. I noticed the race for the bottom bearings is loose, I could dimple that race to tighten it up. The red highlighted part in the pulley, is that from the factory that way?

Thanks,

Jerry

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