What should I use...Home made Tap

What about stress proof? I have some of that.
 
The hardware store , what tpi , unless its special that's what ied do if I dident already have a drawer full of them , What's the application?
 
Tried the HW store. More than a few. None have them.

I can buy this from Midway but they want about $25.00 for it plus shipping.

Making an adapter for a suppressor. Yes, I know I can buy one but I want to make one and it requires a 1/2x28 tap.

I know this is stupid but I want to do it.
 
I looked on eBay for about $10.00 you can get a Bosch brand tap and an Irwin die in 1/2"-20
 
Silverbullet said:
Why not cut the threads on your lathe? It's not that hard and fine threads are easier to cut. At least I think so. Or try watching eBay there on there I bet a China one even for about $8.00 delivered. get the die too.
Click to expand...

Internal blind threads that small would be very difficult to cut, at least for me.

I know I can buy one and that certainly makes more sense than making one. The real reason is: I have two friends, both highly skilled retired machinists, and they are telling me I can't do it. Next time we all take lunch I want to place my homemade tap and the threader adapter on the table and see their reaction. Maybe I'll get a free lunch.
 
Good luck with the project! Nothing like making an "expert" eat crow! I think taps usually have a little relief behind the cutting edge, not just straight turned/threaded. Like mentioned above, use O1, W1 or A2. Drill rod would be my choice since I have a good selection in a lot of diameters.

I'd probably cut the threads on the lathe so you could make it a little on the large size. I'm thinking running a die over the drill rod would make you a tap, but wouldn't be deep enough of a cut to easily run hardware store bolts through its tapped holes. Go to the mill after threading and cut flutes with a ball end mill. If you're using an indexer in the mill (i.e. rotary table with a chuck, spin indexer, dividing head as opposed to a square 5-C collet block) you could relieve the back of the threads on the mill by going just past the lead edge and dust off a few thousandths. Or maybe just carefully grind some relief by hand. Harden with a torch and temper to 500 F per the chart attached (downloaded from somewhere on line).

Make sure to include a couple pictures of your buddies jaws setting a gap!

Bruce

temper colors.jpg
 
I know exactly how you feel and it's not stupid. As soon as someone tells me I can't do something it simply fuels the fire and I become more determined.

Some considerations that pop into my head:
One time use only? What is the part material hardness?
Could you start with a 1/2"-28 bolt and cut the flutes? Obviously the bolt material isn't as hard as O1, W1, A2, etc, but if you're only using it once and the part material is relatively soft, you might be able to get away with it?
If you want to do it right than I'd say Bruce has some good advice!

I just goolged "making taps" (kind of feel guilty, like I cheated for some reason) and a thread (ha!) on another forum popped up. I hope I don't rub anyone the wrong way by posting this, if I do let me know and I'll remove it:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/making-taps-187694/
 
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