I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!)
This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop.
OK, the long title says it all, I have an older southbound mill that I really enjoy, it's heavy, only has 1 hp, but she is pretty solid and a ram head. No nod, but she does tilt side to side.
I am in the process of collecting information on what I am going to need to do to rebuild the head and replace the spindle bearings on this machine. The information on this machine is a little sparse, though, not much is needed because the machine is fairly straight forward in design and construction.
Any info you might be aware of I'd would apperciated, very interested in info on taking apart the head and any adjustments alignments I should be aware of before I start pulling her apart.
Creating this thread to share some manual mill/CNC stuff I've picked up so far at work/school. Some nice little charts here if you want to print them out. The center drill sizes are basically what I program the controls for depth for each size, because it's tricky finding one that works I've jotted ones that do here. Also the SFM is a bit different, but if you look at the bottom guide it will show you how to use them. This is for milling only. For drilling, I usually use a different chart that I found to be better. Will upload it soon. Let me know if you need clarification on anything. I wanted to use this as a spot for you all to learn and for backup for my notes.
My version of a spindle stop for my PM-1440GT lathe with 2" spindle bore.
I have been using this stop for a while. Made from Delrin, a 3/* aluminum rod and 3/16" & 1/4" drill rod at the ends. It is held in place by one of the outboard spider setscrews and adjusted with a 1/4-20 setscrew. Something I made up quickly for a job. Works okay but a bit of a pain to quickly install and adjust.
I decided to make one that was tool-less to install and adjust. The adapter is made from 2-1/4" 1018 cold rolled steel. The adapter is held in place by a pin that is engaged by a 1/4-20 adjustable handle. Same for the stop rod lock. The stop rod and lock pins are made from O-1 drill rod.
Cad Model showing how pins are engaged.
Truing up the stock in the 3-jaw prior to facing and drilling.
Stock supported in the steady for facing and drilling. I would have done the turning in the steady but I discovered...
I bought an air belt grinder a while back which proved a little too air hungry for my compressor, so, rather than buy a bigger compressor I converted it to run off 12 volts.
The motor came from ebay as a 12 volt cordless drill motor spinning at 5000 rpm. I removed the air motor and as luck had it the 12 volt motor fitted perfectly in the grinder housing. I also turned up a 12 mm bush with a 3mm hole to fit over the motor's shaft and shrunk fit that into the belt drum, constructed a handle from 22 mm tube and inserted a switch in it. To protect the motor I turned down a PVC pip fitting and heat shrunk it over the motor leaving an air gap to coincide with the motors vents, Sikaflexed an end cap in place and cut some grooves under the cover to aid cooling.
The grinder works great and is certainly better than forking out $300 for a Makita belt grinder. some pics and a video:
Started this a while ago, keeps getting out on the back burner due to shop problems and break downs. Still working on my lathe DC drive system that failed...
It's based on Stefan Gotteswinter's project. Did a bunch more mill work last night on the top slide piece.
And my progress so far.
To use as a surface guage, I can just spin the top slide around to the back and extend the DTI off the back for about 4" of reach. Not a huge amount of surface covered, but more than I have right now, which is nothing, and my surface plate is small.
I figured with the addition of the surface grinder, and my hopes of making lapping plates, I really need a way to measure squareness and surfaces.
It would be nice to afford a nice reference standard tho. I may just have to rely on comparative squaring. Checking both sides of something and splitting the difference.
I’ve been wanting to make an interesting form that used eccentric turning. I wanted to make it as long as feasible on my hobby machines and I would display it vertically. I did some research on cams and got to thinking that they are too solid of a piece. That led me to crankshafts that were much more “airy”, and certainly more difficult to make. I remembered seeing a thread once on one of the model engine sites where a guy made a V-12 crank and he made a special jig to help turn it.
I suppose there are many ways to do this but they would involve a lot of dial indicator work setting up each crank pins off-set. The fixture this guy made was a big block of steel that was turned and bored with the crank throw dimension machined into it so it eliminated the individual set-ups. I don’t know if it was his idea, or if it was commonly used amongst the model motor heads. There were no plans, instructions or dimensions, so all I had to go on was a couple of photos he posted. They didn’t...
My Ellis band saw has a quick acting vise for holding the stock in place while cutting. The vise can not be located real close to the blade and can cause a clamping issue when trying to cut really short pieces even shorter. So, here is my solution. I made an adjustable clamp. Seems to work pretty well.
This morning's project was to finish up on an indexing plate that I had started the day before. Not that I really needed
a project but wanted to test out the bolt circle feature on my Mitutoyo digital readout. As luck would have it I had a
steel disc or the right thickness but a little larger in diameter than the original indexing plates. I picked 40,44, 48, 50, 55, and
60 divisions but maybe using some prime numbers would have been better, not sure at this point. Anyway, I still have
the flip side to drill out. This is not a difficult process but rather a time consuming and requires one to be careful not to
make an error in drilling. I used a center drill for the whole process for the sake of rigidity. It was quite a bit of work
so had to show it off to all you HM folks. At least now I know that I can make pretty much custom make any indexing plate
i started construction on a MT3 slitting saw arbor from materials in the shop.
here is the slug of what i believe to be 12L14 mild steel.
it was unmarked, but acted like 12L14 i have machined before.
it's very nice to turn.
the slug was a fraction over 1" in diameter and 7" long.
i centerdrilled both ends.
i turned the diameter on both ends down to .950".
one for the drive dog, the other to make the taper turning operation quicker
then i added the drive dog and offset the tailstock to a total indicated offset of .176"
and started cutting the taper
and after taking some passes, the arbor partially emerged from the rod!
i drilled & tapped the drawbar end to 3/8"-16 tpi x 1.250" depth and polished it up a bit more to fit into the MT3 test socket.
and here is the blank, pictured next to a MT2 blank i did the day before.
I started this build couple of months ago thinking i'll finish it in a week or two so i continued writing about it in the question & answer section where i had couple of questions, but because is drag on for so long i've decided to move it in the project section.
Couple of weeks ago i bought two small generators they both "run" the smaller one needed an carb cleaning and now runs good, the Bosch uses an Tecumseh HS40 engine which has a blown head gasket, and only runs for couple of seconds and dies, the generator works so is worth repairing it.
My Precision Matthews PM1440GT lathe is arriving via UPS LTL Freight tomorrow 01/25/2018.
I have two basic questions relative to other PM1440GT Lathe owners.
1) Has anyone used the Dorian CXA Quick Change Toolpost , Model # SDN35CXA on the PM1440GT ?
I want to be able to use the larger 3/4" tooling over the 5/8" tooling on the Dorian BXA Quick Change Toolpost.
2) Has anyone used the Hitachi WJ200 VFD on the 3 HP 3phase motor on the PM1440GT ?
If so , is it possible to get the Hitachi WJ200 VFD parameters that were used for the PM1440GT ?
Appreciate any feedback and will post photos soon ...
My steady rest spider turned into a bigger project because the roller shafts do not retract to utilize the diameter of the steady rest.
I made new shafts from O1 tool steel with bronze tips.
The spider is made from a 2.5” diameter scrap of some grade of steel, it machined nicely. I will thread for the 8 spider screws m10x1.5.
First time using my rotary table, I supported the work directly under the bottom of the spider body because of the lack of rigidity of the rotary table mounting. I need to build a right angle mounting plate and look into rotary table tail stocks.
Perhaps you've seen this from other photos... It's a KO-Lee cutter grinder. It's a good platform and the table and all mechanisms are in excellent condition. I don't think this machine was used much in it's lifetime as there are very few signs of wear (hardly any at all really).
The motor is the weak link. The bearings are going bad and vibration can be felt in the short shaft. The long shaft is OK. The seller told me about this when I got it. I'm guessing someone bumped a wheel really hard and damaged the bearing on that side.
Anyhow, I once had a B&S #2 surface grinder but, sold it a few years ago. It needed too much work. It took up too much space, and I rarely worked on parts more than a few inches in size. Also, the things I make do not need sub-ten-thou tolerances. I've used the KO a couple times to do some grinding on small parts within a half-thou and it works out fine. My plan when I sold the B&S was to modify the KO-Lee to handle the simple grinding tasks...