I picked up a Clausing variable speed drill press from a Craigslist ad. I offered the guy $200.00 and he accepted. The drill press was in decent overall condition, and had a new motor on it. I disassembled the machine and cleaned up and painted everything. Mechanically, it was in very good condition, and the only real repair work I did was to straighten a few of the handle arms. One really nice feature is the table lift, which works great on that heavy table (btw: the table doesn't have a single drill mark in it!)
This is my second Clausing variable speed drill press. The first one is in my metal shop, this one will be in my wood shop. View attachment 250732 View attachment 250733
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OK, the long title says it all, I have an older southbound mill that I really enjoy, it's heavy, only has 1 hp, but she is pretty solid and a ram head. No nod, but she does tilt side to side.
I am in the process of collecting information on what I am going to need to do to rebuild the head and replace the spindle bearings on this machine. The information on this machine is a little sparse, though, not much is needed because the machine is fairly straight forward in design and construction.
Any info you might be aware of I'd would apperciated, very interested in info on taking apart the head and any adjustments alignments I should be aware of before I start pulling her apart.
Some pictures of the machine , head and the name plate.
Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it.
I'm going to make some gears soon and came across this while brushing-up and refreshing my memory. Of course, the Machinist's Handbook has it all but, this is a very nicely authored and to-the-point tutorial. This is based on Diametral Pitch and not the Module method. I have some other guides based on Module method but need to check the copyright information.
Finally got around to taking some photos of my process as I make some of my string winding cranks. Here's one with a koa handle: View attachment 262951
These cranks feature a soft head made of low density polyethylene, an angle of 83-degrees to simulate wrist rotation, and a solid bearing in the handle.
Interestingly, one of the first questions I get about them is, "How do you achieve that angle?" So, I'll start the description with that in mind. . .
The only commercially made part is the little brass ball, which I drill almost all the way through with a 6.4mm drill that gives me a .252: hole, making for a nice sliding fit for a 1/4" precision ground aluminum rod:
Here, I'm using my tiny Rusnok milling machine. I have the ball set into a matching cavity I milled by plunging with sa 1/2" ball end mill into the steel soft jaws on my old 4" Kurt vise. By the way, I get my soft jaws for vises and chucks from monsterjaws.com - no...
I have in the past tried to use my import metal stamp kit with little or no success.
The numbers never seem to be in a straight line with some up and some down.
Trying to keep them positioned correctly is almost impossible and the spacing between them is never right.
some are stamped too hard and others are not hard enough.
Spring time in Michigan so time to get back into the shop to reproduce more Erector set parts. The part here is Erector part# CQ slotted coupling. It’s a 5/16” diameter piece of brass 5/8” long. It has 6-32 and 8-32 tapped holes and a slot for attaching a flat strip to the cylindrical bushing. I’ll start with the obligatory Erector history lesson . . .
The CQ was introduced in 1924 and was included in just the largest set sold (No. 10). Its function was to connect a 5/32” diameter rod to a flat strip. Wow, exciting . . . I looked through the No. 10 manual from 1924 and found 7 or 8 models that used the part. So, not a widely used part. However, collectors of Erector sets strive to complete their sets with complete inventories of all the parts as it left the factory, so small as the market may be, there actually is one.
The CQ’s most prominent use was in the classic Hudson locomotive model. Two were used in the locomotive model (one per side). Function was to connect...
The inside of the tube was about 0.300 larger then the clock so I rolled a piece of this 0.135 thick flat steel into a circle. I cut off the ends and hammered it close to round. It is an interference fit in the tube and the clock fits snugly inside. Can't believe it worked that well.
I have an early model PM 45 mill that has the manual hand crank for Z elevation. Since I just reorganized my shop and a toolbox is placed nearby, I'm going to attempt to convert it to powered elevation using a heavy duty gear motor that I've had for a long while.
I'm not 100% sure this will work to my satisfaction. The odds are maybe 70%... We'll see. I'll outline the design considerations as we go.
Here's some pictures and explanations...
Here's the mill with crank handle removed. I put a wrench on the shaft flat and roughly measured the torque needed to raise the head. Holding the wrench about 1 foot (little less actually) from the point of rotation, I measured about 8-10 lbs to move it. This was measured by setting weights on the wrench which is a little inaccurate. Anyhow, I'm assuming it needs 10 ft.lbs to keep it in motion.
Being motivated by Mikey's great instruction on tool grinding, I dove in today and seems I was reasonably successful.
Success (I think?) grinding a turning (square) tool. I'm sure it would be easier with the models on hand, but wanted to try it just based on Mike's pictures and descriptions. I think I'm close (it seemed to work very well in brass, just ok on 303 stainless)
It has been too long since I visited! So, I have decided to post a POTD. I am just starting to build Elmer's Grasshopper beam steam engine model. The first task I tried was the flywheel. I changed the plans a bit, as I decided to go with a 3.5" flywheel instead of the 3" flywheel the drawings call for. More mass should make for a better grass...hopper.
I had previously made the flywheel blank. It is 3.5" in diameter, 7/16" thick, with a .400 wide rim and a 3/4" tapered hub. The spoke area is recessed to make the web 1/8" thick.
The project was to cut the spokes.
The flywheel has six tapered spokes. With my rotary table and DRO, straight spokes are pretty easy, but the math for getting a tapered spoke was escaping me. So I found this document, which helped a ton. His whole website is full of useful info. Even with the help, most of the shop time was doing the math...
Just a small project I've been tinkering with for a couple of days... its an aluminum mount to hang a GPS in my truck. I hate the suction cup mounts and don't like any of the other available mounts any better, so I kinda came up with my own design.
I wanted to use aluminum for this project, 10mm thick would have done the job but I had no idea where to souurce that size sheet from; however, I did have some sheets of 25 mm Delrin so I thought I'd have a bit of a play with that medium.
Delrin turns nicely giving a nice finish, but when grinding and filing the finish is quite rough. I expect some more work in this area to neaten the project up a little.
I cut a rough shape from a largish slab and set about shaping it with a finger file. The hole for the motor was turned on the lathe, this necessitated making the handle a little shorter than I'd like. As it turned out the handle fits the hand quite comfortably. I cut a slot just forward of the handle and tapped a hole from the top of the blank for clamping the motor in place. Next I mounted a small piece of Delrin in the four jaw and drilled a 10mm hole for the front wheel mount. After mounting the motor, I spun up a small piece of Delrin and...
I love my new vertex bs-0 dividing head. It opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. I know this has probably been posted a gazillion times,but I feel like sharing.
Today I made myself a dovetail cutter using two
TCMT 16T308 MP NC 3225 inserts with a positive rake and 7degree relief angle.
I did not take enough pics for this post.....was enjoying myself too much. View attachment 265440 View attachment 265443 View attachment 265444
What you don't see is, I've set my dividing head 30degr. out of parallel to my mill bed to get the right angle for the insert and tilt the DH 2degrees down to get a positive axial rake. I didn't want to go too big on that angle because of the 7 degr.
relief angle,I do not want the insert to drag. View attachment 265442
The DH allowed me to machine the two insert landings at the same hight and depth 180 degrees appart.
The cutter angle is 60degr. and the shaft diameter is 20mm (the bigger the better.) The head is about 38mm OD and shaft...
A few years ago I helped a friend that was converting a Toyota Echo from gas to electric. I made a steel plate for the transmission housing that mounted the big electric motor, and a coupler to connect the two shafts. During the conversion he changed from a hydraulic power steering to an electric unit, which was hard to find.
Since the electric steering gear was even harder to find now, he asked if I would attempt a repair.
He bought a new standard bearing with internal and external races, the new OD matched the old.
The plain round part of the shaft was 17.5mm and he found a new bearing with a 17mm ID.
I turned down that part of the shaft and shoulder where the old bearing ran.
I was concerned about how hard the shaft...
I have an two grinder sharpening station in my machine shop but i don't have a bench grinder in my big garage. looked around and the bigger 200-250 mm stone size grinders are pricey so i thought why not build one the size i need and of course make it more powerful. After considering couple of belt driven designs decided to make it direct drive but to use a 2Kw (2 3/4 Hp) 2800 rpm motor out of an old pressure washer, first thing i did after digging out the motor out of the shed was to disassemble it and chamfer, then drill the output shaft, then i made a shaft to slip in it, made this shaft way over size. Then i Mig weld it allowing the weld to melt in down to the root, then i chuck it up flatten the end, centre drill the end then supported it with a live centre. Allowing extra material helps if it moves when welding. then i took couple heavy and progressively lighter cuts do bring it down to M12, this side will turn clockwise so i used right hand threads, at this point i stopped...
I have slowly been adding to my collection of AXA style tool holders and it has become necessary to better organize them. The small size of my work area precluded a wall mounted storage unit.
I decided that a rack mounted at the top of the backsplash wouldn't be too much in the way of machining and tools would be readily accessible. The plan was to make vertical hangers for the tool holders which would provide the densest storage. I could store 1`6 tool holders across the backsplash. In addition, I added four holders for MT3 tooling.
For the base of the rack, I used a 30" piece of 1/4" x 1,-1/2" hot rolled steel. For the hangers, I cut 1.40" pieces of 3/16" x 2" hot rolled. Four standoffs for the MT3 sockets were cut from 1`/4" x 3/8" hot rolled bar.
The MT3 holders were cut from 1`" Sch. 40 galvanized pipe. I burned off most of the galvanizing in my wood furnace. The temperature has to get up to about 1200ºF where the zinc burn off with a bright greenish white flame...
I started this little project before cold weather settled into the south, north central Florida. Cut a piece of 1 inch thick cold roll to get a disc a little larger than 5 inches.
Drilled and bored the center to .750 -.05 for shrinkage. Heated the disc up to a nice red-ish tone and shut down the flame. Dropping the shaft that was in a cut frozen in the freezer over night. After sticking it in the hole hit it once with a hammer to set the shaft. Went to my South Bend 10K putting my ER32 collet chuck on and a .750 collet. Spinning went very well, the first time I turned anything over 3 inches.
Today I pulled it off the shelf and well the humidity had done its job. Several rust spots. Milled a slot on the outside diameter to mount a tool.
Then went to my private stock I picked up many years ago. A nice piece of metal with a HSS insert brazed on the tip ( or what I made the tip ). Cut a profile with relief where needed. A little bit of milling and a little bit of filing and fit...
The steady rest that came with my PM-1440GT lathe only opens up to a little over 2". With shorter fingers I can get up to 3-1/4". I want to be able to work on larger diameter tubing so a larger steady rest is in order. The max swing over the cross slide is 8-3/4". My current design will allow up to 8".
I looked at various DIY steady rests, some over the top and other pretty awful. I don't think I need the rigidity of a steady made from solid steel or cast iron. I saw some fine examples of solid aluminum steady's but anything solid creates a lot of waste and makes the material expensive.
My current direction is to use 1-1/2" square tubing with 1/4" wall thickness for the frame. The base and clamp will be 1018 cold rolled steel along with the hinge and lock. The finger sleeves will be from 1-1/4" round 4130 and the fingers and finger jacking screws will be from O-1 drill rod. There will be two sets of fingers, one with bearing bronze tips and one with bearing tips.
Creating this thread to share some manual mill/CNC stuff I've picked up so far at work/school. Some nice little charts here if you want to print them out. The center drill sizes are basically what I program the controls for depth for each size, because it's tricky finding one that works I've jotted ones that do here. Also the SFM is a bit different, but if you look at the bottom guide it will show you how to use them. This is for milling only. For drilling, I usually use a different chart that I found to be better. Will upload it soon. Let me know if you need clarification on anything. I wanted to use this as a spot for you all to learn and for backup for my notes.