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South Bend reversing gear stuck

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I am restoring a South Bend 9 and work has stopped due to a stuck reversing gear. It loks like no maintenance was done since the machine was made in 1947. Everything but the final gear on the shaft has disassembled but that gear needs to be pressed off. A mechanic friend tried with his 20 ton press - dyidn't budge. I took it to a local machine shop and they stopped trying when the pressure was nearing a breaking point. I have to get this apart. It drives the entire gearbox and screw. I can't afford for it to fail. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
South Bend, restoration,.
Keep Your Eye on the Ball
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Cooler weather is coming, the kids are going back to school, and cottages are closing up. While it might be bittersweet to see summer coming to an end, it means that we settle back into a routine and start new projects. We decided to start the season with a fun demonstration on how to make a plastic ball using a tool that many people are unaware exists. We used a radius cutter and the lathe. When paired with a lathe, radius cutters are responsible for making concave or convex shapes. The process you see in our video is a great example of the art that can be produced by means of a skilled craftsman. Check out the link on our Plasti-Block™ YouTube Channel Plastic balls can be mass manufactured in many ways, but are primarily made by the process of injection molding into dyes. Take a look at this video of table tennis balls being mass produced in a factory. Check out our blog for this and other interesting articles: https://www.plastiblocks.com/latestnews

Scraping in all bearing surfaces on my Wards/Logan 10"

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I've been working on my lathe off and on over the past several weeks or months, but I've been hesitant to start a thread documenting my progress (or lack thereof!) for fear of embarrassing myself. I'm increasingly confident that I'm going to end up with a very precise lathe rather than a very large pile of cast iron dust and tears, so I'm finally willing to share my progress. After creating a new cross-slide for my lathe some time ago, I'd already spent a lot of time scraping in the compound and cross slide. But I decided to tackle a far larger project. I've taken Richard King's class twice now (and I'm about to help out with a third) but I know full well there is no way to really learn something without actually doing it (and even better, trying to explain what you're doing to others). So, despite my old Wards/Logan being in perfectly (well ... "acceptably") useable shape to begin with, I decided to scrape in the bed ways, headstock, saddle, and tailstock. I rationalized that...
The Power of Smallᵀᴹ
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Do you remember the time when most of the things were made here, they were durable, repairable and they would last for a very long time? Do you remember the time when shop and other hands-on trades training were part of the school curriculum? And you also probably remember when all this deteriorated, was bought and moved oversees and centralized by mega corporations... And this is great for few industries, but for a lot of small shop and inventors, makers and hobbyists, there is a real need in local distributed manufacturing. We are looking for your help to spread the word about our new initiative which we call "The Power of Small". What is The Power of Smallᵀᴹ ? • Small businesses doing big projects with low amounts of capital; • Office-desk sized machines making large parts - 100lbs and more; • On-shore, distributed manufacturing on a national or international scale; • Converting 100% waste plastics directly into viable finished goods - affordably and locally; • A...

Working With Plastics

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Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form

Cross Slide Stop for threading on my 13" South Bend?

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Hello, I am struggling to return the cross slide back to the zero point in order to feed the compound in for another pass when threading. I have a single gear box (1941) 13" South Bend. It has the small dials with some backlash like all lathes. If I could dial back the cross slide to clear the threads, move the saddle back to the starting point then move in the cross slide to a positive point each and every time, then I could feed the compound with confidence. I am looking for the locking device, guide, stop or whatever will perform the intended cross slide location. Thank you for your help and I apologize for my ignorance, I don't have very much experience. Jeff

Calculating Spindle Bearing Grease Volume

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Quick question / request for links... I am replacing the spindle bearings in my CNC (G0704) and I need to pack them with grease. I have an empty 7007B (https://www.vxb.com/7007B-Angular-Contact-Bearing-35x62x14-p/kit8891.htm) and an empty 7005B (https://www.vxb.com/7005B-Bearing-Angular-Contact-25x47x12-p/kit8889.htm). I have Kluber IsoFlex NBU 15 grease and a 1 ml dosing syringe. Both have Phenolic cages. I know that higher end bearing manufacturers have tables for these values, but any idea how I can figure out how much is needed in these?

Working With Plastics

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Some people are not very familiar working with plastics. So we will continuously be adding useful info about plastics, here are few first ones we put together: Joining and Gluing ABS Painting parts with molded-in colors - a great partnership. Your Guide To ABS Drop us a note if you find this info useful. If you have more questions/topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, please respond to this thread or submit suggestion on our website using this form

Progress on projects

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Having fun making some basic projects on the lathe. My knurler is tough to figure out, only the top wheel really digs in even when the two wheels contact the work at the same time. I suspect it's a cheap pos. But it could be me..lol Turned down a bolt for my tailstock eject function with a new drill chuck. The chuck has a hollow mt2 taper and would not push out when the drill action retracted into the tailstock. Now the bolt head catches inside tail and when I retract the drill bit all the way it pushes the chuck out. Completed a wiggle bar tonight out of some scrap steel rod. Really enjoying working on the lathe and trying new cuts.

Arduino Code Help

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Not sue if this is the correct forum but here goes. I'm hoping there are some Arduino guru's here. I trying to setup a feed motor that uses the state of two IR sensors to control a relay to cycle a motor on and off. The intent is to give some head room in the feed system to keep the motor from turning on/off constantly. The sensors will be spaced apart, high and low. When the space between the two sensors is full (both beams broken) the motor is of. As the system feeds the the top beam will become unbroken but the motor stays off until the lower beam is unbroken. When both beams are unbroken then the motor turns on. As the feed tube fills the lower beam will become broken but the motor stays on until the feed tube is full (both beams broken) then the motor turns off. I have a single sensor working but I'm struggling on how to incorporate the second sensor. Code so far. /* Feeder */ #define LEDPIN 12 //Motor staus LED is on pin 12 #define RELAY2PIN 10 //Feeder...

Gibs adjustment

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Well after making my 1st project, (aluminum container) I cleaned up all the mess and lubed stuff up. With my compound slide off I noticed a little pin with a aprox 50 degree angled face laying on my chip tray. Pulled out the parts diagram and found it's an adjusting pin for the gibs, 4 of these slide into my compound slide to adjust tighten the gibs. Oh no, I only have 2 pcs. Don't know if I dropped them or what but they be gone. So I found a box of nails and matched diameters up and filed the angle to match and cut with hacksaw to length. Working great and a little smoother now. Anyone else loose those little pins?

Suggestions for Horizontal Test Indicator

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I currently have a .0005" Fowler X-Test Swiss type horizontal test indicator that I use for 95% of my setup work. I would like to pick up a new indicator with a .0001" resolution for finer work. I'm hoping to find one that is a swiss style with the swivel shank and .016" of travel (so two needles, the main one and the rev indication). The only one I can find is a $450 (edit) Interapid. Anybody know of a less expensive option?

Toaster - a conversation starter

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Toaster is a great conversation starter about materials usage, resource management and sustainability. We wrote a short article to start the dialogue. (https://www.plastiblocks.com/single-post/2018/08/10/Toaster---a-conversation-starter) It is so sad that majority of people who have skills don't bother repairing slightly broken, old appliances. And people who don't have skills - have no one to help because repair shops are almost extinct. I hope you can participate in the discussion we started on our blog by commenting there or here and maybe share any repair projects of house hold stuff to encourage others to do so as well.

Aluminum Repair With TIG Question

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Hi, A co-worker asked me if I could fix his "Gold Buddy", Slues box. Please see the pics. These are bullet holes, someone pounded out the extrusion. I plan on cleaning as good as I can and placing the sheeting on a thick piece of aluminum to reduce the heat. Do a bit of pre-cleaning with the TIG torch then form a puddle and fill. Any other procedures or ideas/problems with my plan? I do have some scrap material that is the same thickness so I can get the settings close before I tackle this simple to you job. Thanks for the help.

What kind Endmill is this?

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I found in my shop 6 similar endmills in a box which I bought in 2011 and have no idea what they are for. Total length is 1.75”, 1/8” Shank, 1/8” OD and 2 are 2 flute, 2 single flute and 2 V shape ends. What the purpose of the orange sleeve at the end of the shank? If I will use them to trim aluminum what will be the recommended RPM?

How to Machine This Part

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A friend at work asked if I could machine a new handle for this super old clamp I think it is. I know he's got an old manual drill press that needs fixing but this looks like a handle from a clamp. I think the end on the screw can be pressed out but not sure how to get the handle off. Thinking this must be cast iron. He wants it remade in cast iron which I'm not to excited about but said I'd think about giving it a shot. Any ideas how to go about it?

DRO but Which One?

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I know this horse has been beat to death.The more I read and watch Utubes my headache getting worse,I have read post back several yrs ago and different forums to kinda present day and time.Guys I am just weekend wannabe machinist type person just doing this for fun so nothing serious but I want it to be spot on and trouble free(possible) I know that comes at a cost.Guys I can't come close to afford one of those top shelve models so I have in mind DROpros but thats little above my budget but maybe.So guys 1)DROPros but what would you pick as your Second choice?I have look over on auction site and they are there by boat loads and are very cheap which kinda scares me little.I want the magnetic scales but looks like on ebay its all glass.What I want to put this on is a mill say 2axis and also 2 axis for my 11" lathe later down the road.On Ebay I can find 3axis for 300.00 but glass and its hard to resist that price but again which one and from who?I know that at those prices support...

What to practice on lathe

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Hello everyone, I was thinking you all could list some practice cuts or things to start off practicing on the lathe. I have only done face cuts so far and starting to think I should practice steps, curves, shoulders, etc Really no idea what to practice first or what will build up good lathe skills for when I actually turn a project. I have heard some people practice making bullets? What is that all about? Thanks

1st chips, no blood

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Finally did it, took .030 " off the end of a 1" rnd aluminum bar stock. 1st cut ever!!! So excited to finally make a pass on the new metal lathe!!:eagerness::excitement: Couldn't contain myself, lowered the tool post slightly and took .005 off. I am loving it, made great swarth, nice long pcs and some 1-2" spiral pcs..haha I know my technique is bad as I have no practice, I could tell I was not steady in the feed rate and I see the lines in the face cut. Will practice more, play with angle and tool selection and eventually go power feed vs manual turning. Thank you all for helping me with my most basic newbie questions!!! You guys Rock!!:grin big::congratulate:

My Power Feed Broke

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Just stopped working. Suddenly I started hearing a loud tick. Stopped the machine to investigate. There is a collar that the feed rod runs through. I'm pretty sure that normally this collar (thinking it might clamp down on the rod) is stationary not rotating like it is now. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
Machine Grade Rods & Blocks
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Our plastic raw material products will enable small, medium and large companies, including manual & CNC shops, makers, designers, model builders, furniture manufacturers, cabinet makers, hobbyists, prototyping bureaus and more. Our machine grade blocks and rods are available in small quantities, in different colors and at very affordable prices that can boost creativity and will help your business thrive. Currently we offer HDPE and ABS blocks and rods. We will be regularly expending our product offerings in the coming months to include CAB, Acrylic and PEEK and other products forms including sheets. If you fabricate, CNC machine, or make something cool with our materials, send us a picture and we will post it with a reference to your company if you wish. We believe in distributed infrastructure solutions and so we aim to achieve this through our line of consumer-friendly products and user-friendly equipment. Plasti-Block™ blocks, rods and sheets are just a first “stepping block”...
Trying to Weld Unknown Aluminum Scrap-No Success!
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Hi, I am trying to get to know my Miller Diversion 180 with regard to Aluminum. I picked up some bent scraps at the local source. All I know is it is aluminum. I have read that some aluminum alloys can't be welded, I guess I found one. I have had success welding aluminum so I am not a total newb. but close. I set the dials to "Aluminum", 1/8" = 105 amps AC. The cleaning action is normal, the puddles will not join. I wait for the puddle to develop, introduce a bit of 4043 rod .093". The rod melts but will not come together. I used a wire wheel, cleaned with acetone as always. Anything obvious? Thanks, Jeff

Tight/loose compound?

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So setting up Grizzly G0602 for first time, adjusting gibs and backlash i came across this situation. The top tool compound seems to go loose then right while turning its adjusting collar. Gibs don't really affect it nor backlash. Thoughts? Thanks guys

First real part...parting woes!

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Been awhile since posting so I thought Id share the first actual part I made on a lathe that actually will serve a purpose...drawbar spacer for the Atlas 618. Everything went well until I decided to try to part off, way too much chatter. I have the qctp from LMS and the blade type cutoff tool that fit in the tool holder. I will read up on the parting issue as I know there is much info here on this. I already understand I was running too fast to part off. I've only had this lathe running for a couple weeks so overall I was happy with the outcome. So thanks to all who contribute their knowledge here, without that I do not think I would have gotten this far so quickly. Any recommendation on alternative parting tools I would be interested to hear. Lastly here is the 618, got it 2 years ago in a box of pieces and finally got it running with all the help offered here.

Newb quick change tool post/tooling suggestions

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Good evening fellas. I am picking up my G0602z at the UPS hub in the next few days (renting a trailer so I can drive it directly into my garage) anyway, I was looking at QCP as I won't have the patience for the stock one. Any suggestions? I realize it is a budget lathe so of course I'm not looking at a $1000 setup, but if it doesn't work well and isn't good at being....well, a quick change then....I A couple ideas, ALORIS & DORIAN. Also size/series. Now along with the post....the tools. Remeber, this is a whole new field for me. I understand the different types for different approaches/cuts, but brands/material? I need to get in ordering soon! Anything else that will make my life easier? Thanks as always!

Tramming my Mill

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Does anyone see a problem with tramming like this. I like to use the vise as that is where my work is held. The parallels are 4-way Anton .0003" accurate on height, width and straightness.

Indicol 178 and Starrett Last Word 711

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I probably should have done my homework before buying these two items. Can anyone here tell me what attachment I need that will make these two compatible? The 711 came with a body clamp for a 1/4" diameter shaft and the 178 is rigged for an indicator with a dove tail.

Tapping for 10-32

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I do a fair amount of 10-32 tapping on aluminum and it’s a hard going. I use a 5/32” drill which came as a set with the tap but I wonder if another drill size may do the job faster As an example I also tap a lot of M5 and I was using #19 drill which was also a hard going but I discover from a thread in another forum that an 11/64’ drill is much better and in it is. Is the 5/32” drill the best for 10-32 tap?

SB 16X60

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That machinetoolcollectionitius disease struck again. I picked up a 16" x 60" SB today. Came with a 12" 4 jaw, complete 5c collet set, with a nice tray, that someone set up to mount at the tail stock, or head stock. A well abused 8" 3 jaw (yes, thats a crack above the 5 &6). a spare 8" backing plate, the wrenches for the saddle and tail stock locks, and a 4 way tool post. And most of a steady rest(missing the fingers, but the knobs and all are all there). The ways have a good bit of wear. The travel knob for the saddle needs a new bushing, or something, but is quite usable the way it is. Otherwise, all the gears look good. He never did any threading, so the threading dial was never engaged as long as he had it.

Estate Sale scores. And need to identify the Ames Indicator.

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Scored some miscellanea this weekend. Can't figure out what the Ames indicator setup was used on. Only markings are the typical 'Pat. App'd' The brass Transit(?) item is rather neat. The logo on the pocket tape is cool I think. ...... ...... ...

Talysurf 4

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Bought this

Table-Top or Toolpost Shaper

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Here's a "working" concept of a small shaper. The design goal is for it to work in the lathe via a toolholder in the toolpost or, on a small table-top fixture. The main use will be for cutting fairly small keyways in pulleys or gear bores. I'm also using this project to learn Fusion 360 after many years of Alibre CAD. The design is based on the classic Whitworth "Quick Return" slider/shaper mechanism. This is the first time I've used a CAD program for all the conceptual diagrams. I did not use a pencil or notepad for hand sketches like I usually do. I used pencil/paper only for a handful of trig problems and also to calculate the position, torque and speed of the slider rod given the small gear motor that was selected for the project. This diagram is no-where near what it will finally look like. This diagram only shows the mechanical model to prove-out the basic design. My design goal was to have a shaper that had an adjustable stroke up to 3.25". Fusion 360 has stress...

Upgrade Vintage Tool Chest with Ball Bearing Slides Using Plywood?? by Bill70j

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I have a 70's vintage Craftsman tool chest, a gift from my wife way back when. It has old metal-on-metal friction drawer slides that have never worked. It' a chore to get the drawers open. Upgrading to ball bearing slides seemed easy enough. But how to mount the new slides without welding? I'm no good at welding sheet metal, plus I didn't want to ruin the finish. The solution kept coming back - use wood. In a metal tool cabinet? It worked out well. The chest sides are more rigid with glued-in plywood, and maple slide mounts add strength. Here is an inside view of the 3-drawer chest with the old metal-on-metal friction slides. Here is a new ball bearing slide compared to the old friction ones. After cutting out the old slides, I had a cavity to fill and new slide mounts to install. I used 3/4" baltic birch plywood and glued it to the chest using polyurethane construction adhesive, then glued 1/2" hard maple to the plywood for the mounts. Here are the new slides...

Dayton 6Y945 2x42 belt sander mods for HSS tool grinding..

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After falling down the mini lathe rabbit hole I discovered yet another one when the enablers on this site ganged up on me. After being amazed by how well the tool worked that @ttabbal ground and sent to me I set out to be able to grind my own. Then came a 1000 PM's back and forth with @mikey on what I needed for a sander and exactly how to go about the actual grinding. Once I got @mikey 's models from @Z2V I wanted to get a grinder set up correctly ASAP. So thanks to @mikey , @ttabbal and @Z2V for throwing me over this cliff. I'm a total machining newbie. Definitely just a hobby for me but I like to have the right tools for whatever I'm doing. I simply could not justify spending $500+ on a nice sander nor did I want to invest the time to build one from scratch so I started researching one that I could afford. Enter the Dayton 6Y945 2x42/disc sander. It's available from multiple suppliers but I opted to get mine at Grainger. They had a good price ($149.50) and my local store is 2...

Metal Stamp Fixture

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I have in the past tried to use my import metal stamp kit with little or no success. The numbers never seem to be in a straight line with some up and some down. Trying to keep them positioned correctly is almost impossible and the spacing between them is never right. some are stamped too hard and others are not hard enough. So I decided I would have a go at making a holder that would rigidly hold and space them correctly for marking on round stock. A couple of years back I made a rotary table ( https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/simple-rotary-table.53051/#post-448014 ) and it would be ideal for setting the spacing just right for each number. I made some brackets from 1" X 1/4" aluminum stock for the supports and mounted them on the rotary table. I made the stamp holder and retainer from aluminum also. I wanted a way to always hit the stamp with the same force so a added a 5/16' X 7" long threaded rod for the steel slide hammer to run on. I also added an side screw...
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