Mystery Project...

So, I came-up with an idea for the rollers under the way rails to keep the TS down when drilling... What do you think of this? How about a heavy piece of band steel that would act similar to a leaf spring? I could mount the bearings/rollers to the piece and it would operate just like the normal locking plate but, it would have adequate tension to keep it flat on the ways.

Thoughts? Any ideas for a suitable piece of metal that could serve as a "leaf spring". I have proper heat treating equipment so, I could make something with a cutom temper. The piece will need to be about 3.5" wide and 5-6" long (roughly). Ideas about what would be a good metal to start with are greatly appreciated.


Ray

1095 or 5160 steels come to mind. 5160 is more fatigue resistant IIRC, but I don't think this is going to be a high cycle use, so 1095 would probably work fine. In fact, any high carbon steel would work. If you know what force you need, should be relatively easy to figure out what thickness/length you need.

I don't think the temper is that critical, basically you want to increase your yield strength so that the material doesn't deform plastically. You also don't want it to be too brittle. I think a "blue" temper with a rockwell hardness in the high 40s or low 50s is common for carbon steel.
 
All done with the push/pull screw...

The threads were a little tight so the piece was remounted and threads cut a few thou deeper. I probably should have just chased it with a die but for some reason, I didn't think of that -Duh! The retainer plate was easy and everything fits together just peachy. It spins easily with fingertip pressure and the plates slide with no side play at all. I put a little way oil between the plates and had my son stand on it. Still easy to work the adjustment with fingertips but, I'll probably put a screwdriver slot on the face of the screw (assuming I can find an endmill small enough -pretty sure I have one...).

Next I'll probably start making the gear and handle to drive it.

Retainer.JPGWorking Well.JPG

Ray

Retainer.JPG Working Well.JPG
 
you'll be using this turrett b4 long, Everbody i know that worked in job shops hated them lol.
 
Don't know if you saw the other posts about the mill tool and the pinion gear... Those were part of this project. I'm also scrounging around for for some 1095 for the flat spring. Also, last Sunday, I took the off from shop work -which is pretty rare for me.


you'll be using this turrett b4 long, Everbody i know that worked in job shops hated them lol.
 
Quick update... I started making the rack pinion gears but, the cutter was getting dull way too quickly and also, I dislike banging the spindle gears to such an extent so, I've ordered some small endmills and will cut the slots first then, just cut the pressure angle with the rotary doo-dad. Everything is documented in the threads called "Multip-purpose mill tool holder" and "Making a Pinion Gear". In the mean time, I've done the scraping on the bottom of the slide plate. I simply used a roto-dremel tool with a cutoff disk and with a light fine touch using the tool at an oblique angle put a scalloped texture on the surfaces. Using the edge of the cutoff disk, oil grooves were made. With a hand tool, notched a small channel to allow oil to seep from the top and enter the oil grooves. When tested on the lathe with oil, it slides much easier.

Also, here's another possible way to apply tension to the underside for the purpose of allowing it to roll without lifting up. The idea is to use a heavy spring at the rear of the unit that will apply downward force on a leverage bar that has a pivot point at the locking plate bolt that protrudes through the underside. The positioning of the spring is shown. A knob on the spring can be used to adjust the force. The spring is a valve spring from a lawnmower engine and a rough check shows it to about a 40lb spring. With pressure on the leverage bar, the teeter point will push upward on a plate that holds the roller bars. If the leverage bar is say, 8" long and has a 1" teeter length on the other end, that should produce 320lbs of force. -I think plenty to hold the unit down especially since the rest of the turret attachment probably weights about 80 lbs (possibly more). If that's not enough pressure, I could use a regular automotive valve spring. This will be very easy to make.... just a plate that holds the rollers, some threaded rod, a knob and piece of bar stock.

How's that sound?

Ray
PivotSpring.JPG

PivotSpring.JPG
 
lookinggood ray, unfortunantly the cancer meds are kicking in so im gonna call it a night and take a fresh look tomorrow
 
Thanks but hey, don't worry about me, take care of yourself...


Ray

lookinggood ray, unfortunantly the cancer meds are kicking in so im gonna call it a night and take a fresh look tomorrow
 
not so sure about the springs, Would that cause excessive wear on the ways?
 
The spring tensioner would only be used for drilling. The whole tailstock moves when the crank is turned. The spring tension should be just enough to keep the rig plastered down to the ways. I doubt if it will need 320lbs of force. For normal use, the tension is removed and the locking plate is used like a normal tailstock. Also, the ways are hardened to RC 52 (I checked) and the new base is soft 1018 -which is no match for hardened cast iron.

Ray

not so sure about the springs, Would that cause excessive wear on the ways?
 
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