Question on Toolmaster 1D Y-axis stop

jeffrininger

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Some misguided previous owner hacked off the Y-axis stop post on my Toolmaster 1D, and I need to replace it. The post I'm talking about is the one that engages he Y-axis micrometer stops. I'm assuming that this is pressed into the table, and I'm planning on drilling and tapping a hole in the top of the "stub" and then rigging some sort of puller to pull it out.

Can someone tell me if this is indeed pressed in, and also the length of the post that protrudes from the table? I want to replace the stub with a rod that is the same length as the original.

Thank you.

Jeff Rininger
 
If you could send me a snap of the area/part your looking to copy, I could photo mine for you. Don't know about taking it apart till I look her over.
Mine's a 1D I picked up last Month, made in '60.
PM me the photo or post it here. I'll PM my e-mail add to you.
V/R W Winget
 
If you could send me a snap of the area/part your looking to copy, I could photo mine for you. Don't know about taking it apart till I look her over.
Mine's a 1D I picked up last Month, made in '60.
PM me the photo or post it here. I'll PM my e-mail add to you.
V/R W Winget

Thank you for your kind reply.

I probably generated some confusion by by mixing up the axis: what I need to replace is the X axis stop, not the Y stop.L1020416.JPGL1020417.JPGL1020418.JPG

The first shot shows the hole left when I removed the hacked-off stop. It was indeed pressed in; I tapped the stub 3/8-NF and by the use of a piston pin and a bunch of washers, I was able to pull the stub out using a grade-8 bolt. The second shot shows the stub sitting next to the hole, and the third shows the stub partially inserted back into the hole. The stop appears to be 5/8 drill rod; mine has the number 143385 stamped into the end.

If you could measure your stop and tell me the length that is exposed, I'd be set! Oh, and by-the-way, do you know the function of the plate that is just below the stop? I took it off, and there are two 5/8 ID holes that run parallel back into the table. Looks to me like some accessory attaches there (??).

Thank you again.

-Jeff Rininger

L1020416.JPG L1020417.JPG L1020418.JPG
 
Jeff:
I'll look into it tonight, I don't know if I'll have internet over the weekend (Satellite at home) but will capture what I can and forward as needed. I can look through a parts manual if I have it, and see if I have the plate on mine, I'd have assumed it was for adjusting the Jib, but then I'm really new to the machines being a retired Infantryman.
V/R W Winget
 
Yes, Jeff - I believe it is the X-axis you are interested in.

Underneith that cover is where the linkage for the X-axis feed is accessed (if you have X-axis feed, the control handle/kick-out replaces that solid pin). I can't seem to up load pictures (it only accepts pictures on my own thread.???) I will post over on the Cinci thread I started.

David
 
Yes, Jeff - I believe it is the X-axis you are interested in.

Underneith that cover is where the linkage for the X-axis feed is accessed (if you have X-axis feed, the control handle/kick-out replaces that solid pin). I can't seem to up load pictures (it only accepts pictures on my own thread.???) I will post over on the Cinci thread I started.

David

Thank you David -- another Toolmaster mystery solved! I should get the 5/8 drill rod I ordered next Monday, and will replace the hacked-off pin as soon as I learn the correct height for it. I'm thinking about tapping a 3/8-NF hole in the top of it before I shrink it in; in case I ever discover why the previous owner found it necessary to saw off the pin (gets in the way of some operation??) I can easily pull it out.

Then I can get on with correcting the 1.0 X 10E6 other ways this poor Lady has been abused in her lifetime. First I need to replace that ugly bent cap screw that serves as the X-axis lock with a proper handle. I'd love to get the original, but that's probably next-to-impossible. Next will probably be fixing the power down-feed fiber gear and the seal in the down feed gearbox that lets all the oil leak out. I already have the replacement seal. Some years ago I called Cincy and they wanted $1200 (twelve-hundred!) dollars for the gear, and some place in New York that has a bunch of parts units wanted $600, so I'll probably cob something up myself. Not that I envision using power down-feed all that much -- it's the principle of the thing...

Thanks again for the information and great pictures.

Jeff Rininger
 
Then I can get on with correcting the 1.0 X 10E6 other ways this poor Lady has been abused in her lifetime. First I need to replace that ugly bent cap screw that serves as the X-axis lock with a proper handle. I'd love to get the original, but that's probably next-to-impossible. Next will probably be fixing the power down-feed fiber gear and the seal in the down feed gearbox that lets all the oil leak out. I already have the replacement seal. Some years ago I called Cincy and they wanted $1200 (twelve-hundred!) dollars for the gear, and some place in New York that has a bunch of parts units wanted $600, so I'll probably cob something up myself. Not that I envision using power down-feed all that much -- it's the principle of the thing...

Well, if it is broken, then it needs to be fixed. Regardless of how esoteric the function is, or whether it will ever get used. When you are making the replacement pieces, you can add your own style - sort of half the fun of this game. Glad to send you more pictures if needed. David
 
Well, if it is broken, then it needs to be fixed. Regardless of how esoteric the function is, or whether it will ever get used. When you are making the replacement pieces, you can add your own style - sort of half the fun of this game. Glad to send you more pictures if needed. David

Yes; I share that philosophy.

I could use a picture of the right-side carriage underside. Mine has a t-slot "rail" mounted down there, which I'm assuming is designed to hold Y-axis carriage stops. However, mine has nothing (not even a hacked-off pin!) for stops mounted in the rail to bump against, so I'm guessing that some such "stop" assembly is missing from my machine. Lost in the sands of time.
 
Jeff: I photo'd mine, but I have a powered crossfeed, and that's where the handle goes to flip the motordrive rod in the Right/Neutral/Left on the axis. I pulled the cover off and there is a pawl that rotates out when the lever flips to the right side (hence the cover to allow room for the pawl at the base to come further outside the main casting)
if any of these photo's would help, I'd be glad to e-mail them to you, just PM me your e-mail address.
Not worth posting them if they don't pertain though, I'd have to find a host site, etc.
V/R W Winget
Carrollton, Va.
 
So...
How did this saga end?
Incidentally, I'm hoping to see some pics of a Cincy factory stop.
A crude drawing, or pic showing a rule would be helpful so that I might approximate OEM.
Some day I plan to make some for my 1B (some day).

Daryl
MN
 
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