Building A Taper Attachment For Sheldon Lathe?

BobSchu

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Anyone here built a taper attachment for an older Sheldon Lathe? Is it worth the trouble and how did you do it? I have an older 11" Sheldon that didn't come with a taper attachment and I want to do some rifle barrel work on it. Without a taper attachment I'm thinking I'm pretty much going to be out of luck- but them I'm pretty much an amateur at this so I'm pretty much just learning this stuff on the fly anyway..... :)

Some ideas on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Bob
 
this is what i use to cut a taper, put it in the tail stock 68728-eafdba38b3a6851654b5161a17c9fe94.jpg
I've been thinking about making something like that Kernbigo, but, one question, when you slide the male taper into your tailstock quill, how do you make sure that the sliding dovetail, holding the adjustable center is perfectly perpendicular to the lathe bed so that when you adjust it laterally, the center stays vertically in line with the headstock center ? BobSchu, question for you, why do you need a taper attachment for rifle barrel work ? Thanks, JR49

68728-eafdba38b3a6851654b5161a17c9fe94.jpg
 
JR,

Think of the geometry involved. Assuming that the ways are not worn more in one part than another and that the cutter is properly on center, it can only move in a straight line in the horizontal plane of the lathe axis and parallel to the axis. Raising or lowering the cutter without changing the infeed decreases the DOC (Depth Of Cut). However, the change is not linear. If you have a tailstock that is too high or too low , and turn a part between centers, it will cut a taper but not a linear taper. So with an adjustable offset center as pictured, the movable center must be in front of or behind the lathe axis, not above or below it. The movable center accomplishes the same thing as offsetting the tailstock, but takes a little less setup time and a lot less teardown time.

However, your point is well taken but should be phrased as follows:

How do you ensure that the movable center starts off being and remains exactly in the plane of the horizontal axis of the lathe? I have always wondered about that ever since the first time that I saw a photograph of an MT mounted offset center.

On your other question, I also wondered why you would need a taper attachment for working on an existing rifle barrel.
 
put a level on it so it is horizontal, and it you want some radical taper you turn between centers, and use a ball bearing center in the headstock end and drive it off a face plate
 
Well, you have more trust in the stability of tanged morse tapers than I have learned to have. :apologize:
 
Wa5cab, thanks, you phrased my question much better than I did. Kernbigo, using a level would be absolutely right except for 1 thing, my lathe is lower toward the back, so that cutting oil and coolant flow to the drain hole. But I assure you the bed ways are not twisted (lets not get into a "the lathe must be level discussion again). So, I will have to figure out another solution. BUT HEY, we have gotten off the original topic (my fault, I apologize Bobschu). So how about it guys, who can help Bobschu out with taper attachment info ? I know I've read threads about guys making T.A.'s many times. But, the one that stuck in my mind was, some one asked who had T.A.'s, and who used them. Most of the replies were guys saying they had one for many years but never used it. That's why I decided to make an adjustable tailstock like what Kernbigo pictured. Happy machining, JR49
 
JR,

It wouldn't matter if the lathe is low at the tailstock end so long as it is still level front to back.

It's a little late to do now but the common solution to the coolant drain problem is to set up the cabinet or more correctly the pan more or less level front to back and down by the tailstock end. Then level the lathe. And whether it matters or not, no one will have any excuse to question your method. ;)
 
I've been thinking about making something like that Kernbigo, but, one question, when you slide the male taper into your tailstock quill, how do you make sure that the sliding dovetail, holding the adjustable center is perfectly perpendicular to the lathe bed so that when you adjust it laterally, the center stays vertically in line with the headstock center ? BobSchu, question for you, why do you need a taper attachment for rifle barrel work ? Thanks, JR49

Rifle barrels often come in larger diameters than the desired taper and I have several stock rifle barrels I would prefer to turn down from target weight barrels to more of a sporter contour.

That centering tool looks like just what I need. Did you make all of this unit or did you buy some of the parts (like the sliding dovetail) and build the rest or???????

Thanks,
Bob
 
you put a level on the center after you put it in the tail stock horizontally
 
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