[How do I?] Grizzly 140020 Tapping Attachment Arbor Removal?

[MetalMuncher]

I just bought a Grizzly 140020 Tapping Attachment (tapping head) which is only available from them with an installed MT2 arbor. My drill press is a 1985 Craftsman floor model, which uses a JT33 taper in the spindle. I would like to change the arbor on this tapping head to get one that will fit my JT33 taper.

However, I am not entirely sure the arbor is removable. How can I find out, without damaging the brand new tapping head?

And, if I do get it out, how do I then determine what taper style they used in the top of the tapping head, so I know what arbor to get?

Here's a photo of the new tapping head.

 

[kd4gij]

It looks like the arbor is a jt taper . And it can be bought as a replacement. You can either get a set of wedges or make a set . What is the craftsman number on your drill press? should be xxx.xxxxxx

 

[MetalMuncher]

It looks like the arbor is a jt taper . And it can be bought as a replacement. You can either get a set of wedges or make a set . What is the craftsman number on your drill press? should be xxx.xxxxxx

Hi. I think you misunderstood what I meant to say. Let me clarify. I want to take the arbor out of the tapping head, not out of the drill press. I already have the arbor out of the drill press.

Grizzly lists the arbor in their parts list, but unfortunately they do not show a picture of it. So I still know no more than when I started. I'm not even sure it comes out like a regular drill chuck arbor would, but I am trying to find out. I emailed Grizzly tech support about this, but they were not very helpful, and just told me it only comes with the MT2 arbor and they don't offer any other arbor for it.

I am wondering if the groove around the tapping head's arbor shaft, just above the black clutch tension adjustment ring at the top, is a hint at being removable? Or it may just be where the MT2 taper at the top stops, and whatever other taper inside the tapping head begins.

 

[MetalMuncher]

I just found this in a post on another forum

"How is the shank removed on a Tapmatic tapping head? The N/C-R head is designed for CNC machines and has a 1" straight shank.

I picked up the head at a good price and if it's possible would like to change the shank to either a 1/2" straight shank or a #3 MT shank and use the head on a drill press.
I have a Tapmatic being delivered tomorrow. I have checked into removing the shank from the head (not a threaded type) and Tapmatic recommends holding the head in one hand and tapping on the shank, NOT the head body, with a brass bar several times. I guess what this does is break the 'seal' of the taper contact to remove the shank."

I certainly don't want to damage the new tool, but in my mind this goes along with what I was told in another thread recently about how "side pressure" loosens drill press chucks mounted with a tapered arbor, and thus why it is so dangerous to try to do machining with that arrangement. I also read some reference to "ringing" (the vibration from tapping with a brass hammer, or bar in this case) being the actual cause of the taper to release. Anyone here care to comment before I get brave and try this? as you can see in the photo, this arbor has a tang at the top which I would not need, even if I ended up using the adapter I bought to put this into a 1/2" chuck. Perhaps tapping on the tang would be the safest move?

 

[JimDawson]

I think this is what you need http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=480&PMCTLG=00 see Drill Chuck Removal Wedges center page.

I would go with the TapMatic recommendation, seems like it would work.

There is a good chance that the socket in the tapping head is a JT33. I don't think you will find an adapter for a JT to anything.

 

[MetalMuncher]

If it is a JT33 inside the tapping head, then a JT33 to JT33 arbor would do it.

I have a set of the wedges. I don't see how that might help on the tapping head. I did try the TapMatic recommendation, tapping rather gingerly on both the tang and eventually on the taper, using a length of 3.4" brass rod. Nada. I tried clamping the tang in my bench vise and pulling downward on the tapping head while tapping on the taper with the brass rod. Also nada. Perhaps this arbor isn't actually removable? If they built it into the clutch pack, it could be dropped in from the top and then screwed down with the adjustment ring. I wonder what removing the adjustment ring, if possible, would reveal? It has a tiny brass screw into the side of it though, so I am not inclined to try.

In the end, I have a 1/2" straight shank adapter for my drill chuck that accepts the tapping head's MT2 taper in a socket at the other end. I can use it that way, but it adds several inches between the quill and tapping head, which I would rather avoid due to possibly making things more likely to flex sideways. But I have have to, I guess I'll just do that.

 

[MetalMuncher]

Well, there are a lot of JT33 to something else arbors out there, but I'm not seeing any arbors at all that are the same on both ends. So if I can't get an actual JT33 male to JT33 male arbor, then this whole arbor removal idea becomes academic anyway. Time to try out the tapping head in the 1/2" straight shank to MT2 adapter and see if there are any problems.

 

[kd4gij]

The arbor in the tapping had should have a jt33 taper holding in. And I would still like to know the number on your drill press.


If you have a set of wedges that fit the grove in the arbor. Make a spacer or stack some washers up to cover about 1/3 of the grove and use the wedges to pop the arbor out.

 

[JimDawson]

Well, there are a lot of JT33 to something else arbors out there, but I'm not seeing any arbors at all that are the same on both ends. So if I can't get an actual JT33 male to JT33 male arbor, then this whole arbor removal idea becomes academic anyway. Time to try out the tapping head in the 1/2" straight shank to MT2 adapter and see if there are any problems.

Your drill press has a JT33 socket? I have seen drill presses with a JT tapered quill, but always male.

I miss spoke, there a lot of JT to other arbors, but no JT to JT that I have ever seen.
.

 

[MetalMuncher]

Your drill press has a JT33 socket? I have seen drill presses with a JT tapered quill, but always male.

I miss spoke, there a lot of JT to other arbors, but no JT to JT that I have ever seen.
.

Oops. Don't know what I was thinking there. Yes, it does have a male JT33 arbor on the end of its quill. I'm wishing it had a female Mt2 about now..........