Another Tool & Cutter Grinder

The mill table on my lathe worked great. I got straight holes with a good slip fit on the brass rod for the split cotters.
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After a couple hours on my mill, the aluminum block for the grinding head is all cut to shape.
milled grinding head 2.JPG
milled grinding head.JPG I have to drill some bolt holes in it yet.

The steel came for the motor mount so I began turning the swivel mount.
machining motor swivel mount.JPG It is finished to size. I need to drill and ream a .625" hole in the center and engrave the 360 degree markings on the 4" section. This must all be done before it is removed from the chuck to insure everything is concentric. This is very important as the holes and the stub have to be concentric to align perfectly when assembled to the grinding head. Any out of alignment and the mount will not swivel easily or may bind.

I have the brass split cotters almost finished.
brass split cotters.JPG Just have to cut in half and bevel the ends.
 
Got here a bit late.. but I made it!
I'm fascinated by this topic as I have many end mills and cutters for the horizontal mill that might benefit from such a tool.
I watched Bill G. do one and have been intrigued since! Can't wait for the next installment!
 
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Got here a bit late.. but I made it!
I'm fascinated but this topic as I have many end mills and cutters for the horizontal mill that might benefit from such a tool.
I watched Bill G. do one and have been intrigued since! Can't wait for the next installment!
At the first of the year, I built a Bonelle tool and cutter grinder (which is way over engineered). This grinder is much simpler to build and will be much easier to operate.
 
While the motor mount was in the lathe, I turned all the diameters, drilled and reamed a .625 hole in the center and engraved the 360 degree markings so everything is concentric. this is very important for fit and function.Any misalignment will cause the motor mount to bind when rotated.
IMG_0660.JPG It fits in the socket perfectly. I engraved the lines and stamped the numbers. I didn't bother taking photos or explaining this as It has been covered in several of my other projects.
IMG_0659.JPG Although the markings are all the way around the piece, 360 degrees in 1 degree increments, there are only numbers from zero to 90 degrees on either side of zero. This is because the head will usually be positioned plus or minus a few degrees from zero to grind most all tools. How ever, I put the marks all the way around in case they are ever needed.
 
Hi Mark
Any chance of the drawings being made available? My little homeshop definitely needs a cuttergrinder!
 
Hi Mark
Any chance of the drawings being made available? My little homeshop definitely needs a cuttergrinder!
Yes, all drawings and a detailed build article will be available to anyone who wants it when completed. I am making and changing the drawings as I build since this was deigned by myself, borrowing features from several machines to make an easy to use tool and cutter grinder that is also easy to build. I posted a grinding head drawing here but things are changing constantly during the build.
 
Thanks Mark. Really appreciate your generosity. I'm eagerly anticipating this one!!
 
I decided to make my own shoulder bolt today , but then abandoned that idea for a better one, but I want to point out something particularly to newbies at machining. Many people don' have a 4 jaw chuck and ALL 3 jaw chucks have some run out that varies with the clamping diameter. This is caused by inaccuracies in the scroll and the teeth on the jaws. NO ONE can or makes a scroll chuck accurate at all diameters. That being said ( and it is true), I found a way to make my three jaw chuck accurate ( I had to before I got a 4 jaw). Look closely at this photo. I wanted to turn a precision shoulder bolt using a standard bolt.
IMG_0662.JPG The shank of the bolt was very round and true, so I chucked the bolt on the shank in front of the head and center drilled the end. Now I have the end with a true reference point. Now, we all know that the heads of bolts are forged and can be way off center with regards to the shank. I cut a bunch of small pieces of copy paper to put under the offending jaws. there are 10 layers under one jaw and two layers under the other. this makes the shank run true within .001". now I can machine it. I have done this with round stock to make it run true in my three jaw chuck. I have also use this principle to make offsets. I needed a shaft with a section offset .375". I put a small scrap of 3/8" thick aluminum or steel in one jaw between the jaw and the piece. This gave me my .375" offset when machined this way. Now that the backyard machinist lesson is over we will get back to the tool and cutter grinder.
 
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