How do you cut the relief and at what angle?

Hi Roadie, thank you for your interest!

i used a vertical mill with a 3/8" ball endmill and an inexpensive angle vise, like this one here

the relief angle was set at 10* on the vise, the hex end was held in the jaws horizontally.
i used a thin parallel to keep the tap level during the relief operation.
the tap was relieved off center, on 3 sides, to rake the cutting side teeth for aid in thread cutting.
 
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You are very welcome,Mike
the 12L14 may not be the best choice of material for a tap that will see heavy use.
you may wish to make yours from 01 tool steel or other high carbon alloy if it's gonna see a lot of cellulose :)
 
Sure, wood needs more stock between the threads for strength. That's logical. I'm just using "finger tight" on my fixturing. I'd want stronger threads should I be putting any torque on them.
 
Be advised that most Wood Hardeners have a 24 hour drying time. If you re-Tap right away the threads will become difficult to separate. CA is now.

"Billy G"
 
Coat the threads with CA Glue and tap them again after the glue dries. You will have threads of steel.

Don't know why I didn't think of that....I use CA all the time in my 'factory'. It's like glass to saw through, ought to make really tough threads.
 
well, i punched out a couple more wood taps in the last couple days
here's the update pictures...
i added a 1/2"-8tpi tap . i used 1/2" 12L14 hex
2016-03-23.jpg and a 1-1/8"-8 tpi , i used 1-3/8" 12L14 hex 2016-03-23.jpg

here's a picture of the collection so far
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thanks for looking!:)

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