Need Help Replacing Motor On Enco 110-2075 Engine Lathe

CannonFodder

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Sorry, my friends, somehow I was born with zero abilities in electrical matters.

My original motor of 25 years has burned out (Kunming 1.5HP). I found a new Baldor L1319M on eBay and got a good price.

There, that's the end of my electrical knowledge.

The old motor's junction box looked like this.
Wiring%20Old%20with%20labels_zpshxjigkxn.jpg


The four wires in the corners with the white sleeves are the ones coming from the lathe to the motor.

The new Baldor has 9 wires in the junction box. Two are unlabeled and have been joined together. The rest are labeled 1,2,3,4,5,J, and 8.

The picture on the junction box looks like this:

Wiring%20New_zpsdey6tqwx.jpg

I need to run 230V, single-phase, reversing.

Here is a picture of the Wiring Diagram for the lathe.

Lathe%20Wiring%20Diagram_zpsnj8mrpf7.jpg


Is that enough info? How do I twist together the new wires in the Baldor motor to connect to the wires Z2, V2, Z1, and U1 which go into the lathe?

I can run down more information if you need it.

I sure appreciate the help, I am dead in the water!

Thanks,

CannonFodder (Robert)
 
Last edited:
I have edited my original post with some (hopefully) clearer labeling. Can anyone help me with this wiring?

Thanks,

CannonFodder (Robert)
 
You might take some pictures of the contactors and controls to give us an idea of what is activated in the forward and reverse direction. I always have difficulty following these type of wiring diagrams. In another single phase Baldor motor replacement on a lathe, it was a bit of a challenge and required a different contactor wiring and a motor cable with 5 wires if I recall correctly. The other issue I see is per the diagram, the current contactors show a 29VAC connection, which I have not seen before, although there is a 24VAC tap on the transformer. At least from what I can see, it would require some significant rewiring to get the Baldor to work, but I may be missing something. I need to map it out in some diagrams, hopefully someone else has a better solution.
 
after connecting test with a jog and if that is ok bring it up to speed. do this in both directions

240 vac high voltage configation
jumper 2 and 3
U1 to 1
V2 to 4
Z1 to 5
Z2 to 8
J is not connected to anything but needs a wire nut for insulation


The control wiring is reversing the power to the run windings and leaving the power straight to the start windings, Asian controls tend to use this configuration and it is not what is commonly done in US control systems. The baldor diagram typically anticipates the use of a reversing relay to reverse the start windings.
Good luck

Art b
 
Trying to follow along here: So in the original config U and V were the run legs and Z1 and Z2 were the start legs. U and V were being reversed by the two relays/contactors Km2 and Km3. Correct?
What is that FR symbol with dotted line in series with the U and V legs?
Mark S.
 
240 vac high voltage configuration
jumper 2 and 3
U1 to 1
V2 to 4
Z1 to 5
Z2 to 8
I do not follow how this addresses the Baldor motor wiring where 2, 3 is joined to 5 for forward and joined to 8 for reverse. Five and 8 are alternately connected to one side of the line when not connected to 2 and 3. Mapping it on the schematic 5 and 8 are both connected to one side of the line at the same time in both the forward and reverse contactor. I believe FR is the contactor that closes when the start button is pressed, goes open with the E-Stop.
Baldor L1319M Diagram.jpg
 
Good catch, mksj. The start winding needs to be connected to the junction of the two run coils so that it only gets 120v applied. As master53yoda has it I think it will get 240v applied. This will need to be connected like the motor in the post I referenced in an earlier reply. One of the motor leads won't be used and the running power will get swapped in relation to the start coil.
It's too late for me tonight to research the connections but I'll look at it tomorrow morning.
 
My suggestion for discussion:
3-2-5 connected
8 to Z1
1 to V
4 to V (reverse lines if FWD/REV are wrong)
insulate Z2

Contactors will switch phase of the line wires.
Start coil will stay the same phase and 120v to the junction of the two run coils
 
This is the same model and vintage as the lathe in this thread:http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/is-this-wired-for-110-or-220.53162/

Kinda the same but with a few differences. My lathe (model 110-2072) is also a 1989 vintage. The most significant differences are my motor has 6 wires plus a ground and has two contactors is the controls circuit. I have yet to find a electrical schematic for my machine anywhere but with the help of the members of this forum I'm zeroing in on the source of my problem.

Tom S.
 
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