G0602 Compound Problems. Thoughts, Ideas?

Probably a silly question: did you extend the quill about an 1" before seating the arbor? The machine is designed to eject the MT arbor when you turn the quill back to 0", so it will never allow the arbor to seat until you extend the quill a bit. Not unique to this lathe, many lathes are designed like that.

People cut the tang off the arbor to get the last inch of travel, and defeat the "self ejecting" feature.
T marks , not a silly question at all. The answer is "yes", I do extend the quill before trying to seat the arbor. You're certainly right, all tailstocks are similar in their operation. It's the way it worked on every lathe I've ever worked on, and before I retired I worked on several in the shops that employed me.

Thanks again,

Squier


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I am intrigued by your tailstock issue. If you extend the tailstock quill about 2", are you still unable to get a Morse taper shank to lock? It would seem strange to have an improperly machined socket as they are usually finished with a reamer. If you can lock a shank in the socket at 2" extension but it comes loose before you fully retract the quill, the lead screw is pushing the taper out. This is a desirable feature as there is no other practical way to remove a seated shank.

My MT3 shanks are cut to a length of 2.8" which will eject them are about .05" before full retraction of the quill. Prior to cutting the tanged shack on the drill chucks would eject at more than 1". The two MT3 dead centers that came with the lathe eject at about 5/8" but since, I am not concerned with maximizing the available travel when using the center, I left them as-is.

If you continue to have issues, there is a work-around. I have a quick change tool post which come with a 3/4" boring bar tool holder and a drill chuck with a 3/4" shank. It is more of a PITA to set it up as you have to get the cross slide centered, the height correct, and the angle correct but it is used preferably by others to drill on the lathe because it permits using the power feed to advance the drill. Because of all the adjustments, it is also possible to accurately center the chuck on the spindle axis, allowing more precise holes to be drilled.
Hi RJ!

Extending the quill about 45mm to 50mm and attempting to seat the Morse Taper is a "no-go" on my tailstock. It just refuses to lock-up.

As mentioned earlier, my arbor had a tang. I just finished grinding the tang off. I'll be working on the lash and tailstock problems later today or this evening. I'll post the results here.

Thank you very much for your interest in my problem.

Cheers,

Squier


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I live in Lavaca AR and would love to meet you and show you the mods I have made and share ideas with you. I have a G0752 which is the same lathe with variable speed. I have a G0759 mill with DRO and a G0720R mill I am just starting to use. It sounds like you have quite a bit more machining knowledge than I have but I am learning. I just turned 72 and have only been doing metalworking for about 3 years. I am retired and spend most of my time at home working on various projects. I have a friend Ray Kirk who lives in Talequah and does metalwork mostly knives. You might know him.
 
Howdy Rascal! Really look forward to meeting you and talking shop. I sent you a PM using Tapatalk. It has my contact info. Send me a PM and let me know how to get in touch so we can work out a day to meet. By the way, I'm certainly no expert. I'm a retired Gunsmith and learned to do some lathe work from my boss in a very busy Dallas shop. Lot's of small jobs mostly. I'm 57, but feel a little older. I've had a cardiac tumor, brain tumor, and now they tell me I'm gonna croak from end-stage liver disease. I'm talking to the transplant guys about getting one. On top of all this mess, I'm diabetic, suffer from diabetes, lupus, pad, perpheral neuropathy and osteoarthritis. Still kicking though and making chips fly!

I look forward to hearing from you.

Old Squier A/K/A Paul Mills



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Hey RJ....

I disassembled the tailstock did C&O and reduced friction. Removed a giant chunk of Cosmo from the doggone thing too. Then I tried the arbor/drill chuck from which I ground off the tang. VOILA!!! SUCCESS!!!

Thanks everyone who helped our with this issue.

Squier

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Wow! I just read through this and other threads regarding the G0602. I was almost going to buy one for my restoration business but now I'm considering doing a full restoration on my 1944 SB 9A. I truly believe I will end up with a better machine in the end AND leave $1500 in my bank account. If I were to spend that much money I would NOT be happy fixing flaws in the equipment right out of the box! Thanks for sharing your experiences Squire. Hope that beast keeps working well for you with minimal fixes.
 
T marks , not a silly question at all. The answer is "yes", I do extend the quill before trying to seat the arbor
On these forums, it is often hard to determine the level of experience of the participants. I have read postings from people with their first lathe who don't understand how that works and think it is broken.

Good to hear that it was an easy fix and not a manufacturing issue.
 
Wow! I just read through this and other threads regarding the G0602. I was almost going to buy one for my restoration business but now I'm considering doing a full restoration on my 1944 SB 9A. I truly believe I will end up with a better machine in the end AND leave $1500 in my bank account. If I were to spend that much money I would NOT be happy fixing flaws in the equipment right out of the box! Thanks for sharing your experiences Squire. Hope that beast keeps working well for you with minimal fixes.
Dean,

Whatever you do, don't buy one of these lathes! Keep your SB and spruce it up. Thank God I have a Precision Matthews 1340GT for turning metal. Looking to add a Summit or PM 1660 this year. I just use the G0602 for turning blocks of briar wood to make tobacco pipes. It doesn't even do that well. It's an ongoing project for me.

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On these forums, it is often hard to determine the level of experience of the participants. I have read postings from people with their first lathe who don't understand how that works and think it is broken.

Good to hear that it was an easy fix and not a manufacturing issue.
Tmarks,

Thanks for your remarks. I have a fair amount of experience operating machine tools, but I'm a lousy mechanic! I live way, way out in the boonies - nothing but deer, possums, coons, foxes, and such. No way you get any help from anyone out here. So I'm forced to be my own mechanic even though I stink at it.

Best regards,

Squier

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Dean,

Whatever you do, don't buy one of these lathes! Keep your SB and spruce it up. Thank God I have a Precision Matthews 1340GT for turning metal. Looking to add a Summit or PM 1660 this year. I just use the G0602 for turning blocks of briar wood to make tobacco pipes. It doesn't even do that well. It's an ongoing project for me.

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Thanks for the feedback. I just spent the better part of this afternoon going over my SB. It's needing a lot of work to bring it back to a decent spec. I simply do NOT have the time for that. It runs and all the feeds work OK but the ways are a bit worn and everything has a lot of backlash. I think it's time to post it up on Craigslist and just pull the trigger on a 12" lathe.
 
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