New Pm 1030v Lathe

[jbolt]

The following assumes the spindle is aligned to the bed and there is no twist in the bed.

For the chuck start at ground zero and measure the face of the spindle. Next check for burrs and install the back plate and measure the face of the chuck mating surface. Next check for burrs and install the chuck body and measure the face.

The spindle should be good. If the back plate is not running true you can skim cut the mating surface. If the chuck body is out it would need to be disassembled and examined.

If all of the above are good it could be the jaws or T-slots are not perfect. You can check that with a precision ground rod by measuring along the top and front checking for taper. Turn the chuck 1/4 turn and measure again.

The quick and dirty method for checking the cross slide is to face a piece of material, the larger the better, and running an indicator across the face. It should read zero across the entire face.

Use a 0-4-0 dial test indicator for the above.

 

[shooter123456]

I feel some dissatisfaction and frustration in your posts. Pretty much all that you posted are definite issues with your lathe, but you do have to look at the big picture. These lathes are mass produced to a very low price point for the amount of parts and machining that go into them. Proper fits take time, lots of time, which costs money. Dings and rough work arise from hectic work, all again to get it out the door at the price point. Corners are further cut to undercut the competition. It is amazing that these lathes are as inexpensive as they are, even with their warts, when just the multiple markups and multiple shipping costs are considered. So, we get machines that will operate but will not be at their best potential. As hobbyists, we can spend the time and effort that the factory did not, and get them improved to our expectations. Hobbyists work cheap... Or we can buy MUCH more expensive machines that come nicely finished and ready to do accurate work. TANSTAAFL.

I don't mean to give the impression that I am unhappy with the machine. I am very satisfied with it and I think I have done some excellent work with it.

My intention with these posts, and this thread really, is to try to get information out there about what people can expect from the lathe and to identify the issues with it so that it can be improved. I'm also trying to learn more. I see things that I think are off, but they may be fine, I just don't know any better.

So I'm not trying to poopoo the machine or dissuade anyone from buying one. I just think it has massive potential beyond the results I have been seeing (again, not that I am dissatisfied) and I hope to achieve that potential by identifying shortcomings and correcting them. All of the "complaints" (is that the right word? I don't feel like I'm complaining) I have posted are either for the benefit of others who have the machine or might get one so they know what they should look for to fix, or they are for me to get guidance from the more knowledgeable people here as to how best to address them.

Again, when I say "there is rough machining here" or "I found some dings there" I'm not saying "Look at this piece of ****, this lathe is garbage" I'm saying "I could get better rigidity and motion if I smooth out this area" or "Check for dings there so you don't Marr up this other part."

I do apologize if my posts come across negatively. I love my machines and I like working on them as much as I like making stuff with them.

My Dad is an attorney and my mom is an accountant. I read a quote once that said "Never go to an attorney or accountant for help, they are trained to seek out problems, not solutions."

I texted my dad when I read that and said "Looks like I got shafted since I can't go to either of my parents for help." He replied "It's a lot easier to come up with solutions when you have already found the problem."

 

[shooter123456]

The following assumes the spindle is aligned to the bed and there is no twist in the bed.

For the chuck start at ground zero and measure the face of the spindle. Next check for burrs and install the back plate and measure the face of the chuck mating surface. Next check for burrs and install the chuck body and measure the face.

The spindle should be good. If the back plate is not running true you can skim cut the mating surface. If the chuck body is out it would need to be disassembled and examined.

If all of the above are good it could be the jaws or T-slots are not perfect. You can check that with a precision ground rod by measuring along the top and front checking for taper. Turn the chuck 1/4 turn and measure again.

The quick and dirty method for checking the cross slide is to face a piece of material, the larger the better, and running an indicator across the face. It should read zero across the entire face.

Use a 0-4-0 dial test indicator for the above.

Thank you for the response. I will try that now.

 

[Bob Korves]

I don't mean to give the impression that I am unhappy with the machine. I am very satisfied with it and I think I have done some excellent work with it.

My intention with these posts, and this thread really, is to try to get information out there about what people can expect from the lathe and to identify the issues with it so that it can be improved. I'm also trying to learn more. I see things that I think are off, but they may be fine, I just don't know any better.

So I'm not trying to poopoo the machine or dissuade anyone from buying one. I just think it has massive potential beyond the results I have been seeing (again, not that I am dissatisfied) and I hope to achieve that potential by identifying shortcomings and correcting them. All of the "complaints" (is that the right word? I don't feel like I'm complaining) I have posted are either for the benefit of others who have the machine or might get one so they know what they should look for to fix, or they are for me to get guidance from the more knowledgeable people here as to how best to address them.

Again, when I say "there is rough machining here" or "I found some dings there" I'm not saying "Look at this piece of ****, this lathe is garbage" I'm saying "I could get better rigidity and motion if I smooth out this area" or "Check for dings there so you don't Marr up this other part."

I do apologize if my posts come across negatively. I love my machines and I like working on them as much as I like making stuff with them.

My Dad is an attorney and my mom is an accountant. I read a quote once that said "Never go to an attorney or accountant for help, they are trained to seek out problems, not solutions."

I texted my dad when I read that and said "Looks like I got shafted since I can't go to either of my parents for help." He replied "It's a lot easier to come up with solutions when you have already found the problem."

I probably came across wrong as well, because it was also obvious in your posts that you want to make the machine better while you have it apart. That is the perfect way to do things, and I try to do the same, leave everything better than I found it. Stoning dings and burs, improving fits, smoothing surfaces, making the geometry correct. Those are all pretty simple and satisfying tasks (except the geometry) that all of us can do with our machines, no matter how good or bad they were from the factory. We also learn how things work in the process, and acquire new skills and new understanding of how things work (and don't work.)

 

[Bob Korves]

I appreciate the answers. I hadn't thought about the ground surfaces being reference surfaces. Makes a lot of sense. Thats unfortunate about the scraping. Ill have to see how flat it really is. Thanks again!

Ground surfaces are not always reference surfaces. Sometimes they are just the easiest and quickest way to do an operation on the part. I find myself doing a lot of that with my new/old surface grinder. It is important to understand the generation and uses for reference surfaces. You cannot use ways for reference surfaces because they are worn, but sometimes you can use a portion of the way where there has been no sliding contact. A big flat reference surface that is convenient for measuring and testing the other surfaces is ideal.

 

[KeithK]

I'm looking into picking up PM-1030v and have not been able to really find any videos of this lathe in action. How big of a cut can you take on Steel before she starts complaining? Also are you still happy with the machine?

Thanks
Keith

 

[shooter123456]

I'm looking into picking up PM-1030v and have not been able to really find any videos of this lathe in action. How big of a cut can you take on Steel before she starts complaining? Also are you still happy with the machine?

Thanks
Keith

I havent taken much video of the lathe since I dont have a tripod and its hard to run it with one hand while recording.

Its hard to say about how big of a cut it can take. When I am roughing, I usually set the feed to its highest setting and take .03" cuts (.06" off the diameter) with the 3/8" carbide insert holders everyone has. It doesnt have any trouble doing that in O1, W1, 1018, 4140, or 303 stainless. I have never used it to cut hardened steel or any of the more exotic materials. I have experimented with deeper cuts on the slowest feed, but the lighter cuts at fast speed tend to remove material fastest for me. I have cut at deep as .1" (.2 off the diameter) while running the lathe at a low speed and feeding by hand. It works, but its not happy doing it. When I have enough stock in the chuck and the workpiece is thick enough, I have taken .05" cuts (.1" off the diameter) on the middle feed setting and that's about as much as it can handle before it really struggles. You can hear the motor strain and the RPM dips, but it manages to pull through the cut.

I am still happy with the machine. Ive mentioned a few times in this thread that this lathe was the "reach" for me. I was looking at the 10x22 lathe from Grizzly when someone pointed out PM to me and it was like bells went off in my head. The 1030v addressed all the shortcomings I considered when looking at the 10x22. The 8" longer bed, the 1HP variable motor, the power cross feed, the tachometer, and tailstock lever lock where all big pluses.

Also, I was upgrading from a Harbor Freight 7x12 which I think is a contributing factor to my satisfaction with the 1030. The 7x12 weight 90 lbs and I could move it myself. The 1030 is a little over 400 and I needed my dad and brother to help me get it onto the bench. It is much better built than the 7x12 was, and the extra size and power really blew me away after being used to the 7x12.

Also, you really cant beat the customer service. After dealing with other companies in the past and the difficulty with getting help, I would pay more for an inferior product from PM specifically for their customer service. All of the issues I have contacted them about recieved responses from people within 24 hours. Usually within 2 hours, an actual person will respond either with an answer or "Matt is out doing such and such and will be back around X time to answer this question." Its the little things like that that make the big difference.

Im happy to answer any other questions you have. I am coming up on 9 months of ownership with it and many hundreds of hours running it. If I had all of my money back, I would buy the lathe again. I dont think any machine out there could beat the 1030 in the price range with the features I wanted and the customer service they offer.

 

[KeithK]

I havent taken much video of the lathe since I dont have a tripod and its hard to run it with one hand while recording.

Its hard to say about how big of a cut it can take. When I am roughing, I usually set the feed to its highest setting and take .03" cuts (.06" off the diameter) with the 3/8" carbide insert holders everyone has. It doesnt have any trouble doing that in O1, W1, 1018, 4140, or 303 stainless. I have never used it to cut hardened steel or any of the more exotic materials. I have experimented with deeper cuts on the slowest feed, but the lighter cuts at fast speed tend to remove material fastest for me. I have cut at deep as .1" (.2 off the diameter) while running the lathe at a low speed and feeding by hand. It works, but its not happy doing it. When I have enough stock in the chuck and the workpiece is thick enough, I have taken .05" cuts (.1" off the diameter) on the middle feed setting and that's about as much as it can handle before it really struggles. You can hear the motor strain and the RPM dips, but it manages to pull through the cut.

I am still happy with the machine. Ive mentioned a few times in this thread that this lathe was the "reach" for me. I was looking at the 10x22 lathe from Grizzly when someone pointed out PM to me and it was like bells went off in my head. The 1030v addressed all the shortcomings I considered when looking at the 10x22. The 8" longer bed, the 1HP variable motor, the power cross feed, the tachometer, and tailstock lever lock where all big pluses.

Also, I was upgrading from a Harbor Freight 7x12 which I think is a contributing factor to my satisfaction with the 1030. The 7x12 weight 90 lbs and I could move it myself. The 1030 is a little over 400 and I needed my dad and brother to help me get it onto the bench. It is much better built than the 7x12 was, and the extra size and power really blew me away after being used to the 7x12.

Also, you really cant beat the customer service. After dealing with other companies in the past and the difficulty with getting help, I would pay more for an inferior product from PM specifically for their customer service. All of the issues I have contacted them about recieved responses from people within 24 hours. Usually within 2 hours, an actual person will respond either with an answer or "Matt is out doing such and such and will be back around X time to answer this question." Its the little things like that that make the big difference.

Im happy to answer any other questions you have. I am coming up on 9 months of ownership with it and many hundreds of hours running it. If I had all of my money back, I would buy the lathe again. I dont think any machine out there could beat the 1030 in the price range with the features I wanted and the customer service they offer.

Shooter, thank you for getting back to me. I too am coming from a HF 7 x 12, I have the machine as dialed in as I could get it but it sure is frustrating when parting steel's and takes a long time to turn material down not too mention if you take just a wee bit too much the machine will start fine then shut off on over current in the middle of that cut. I'm sure you know the frustrations that machine brings, but i must say it was a very good learning tool on how to rebuild one. LOL.

Sounds like it will be a huge leap for me and some welcomed relief. BTW, I love that chess set you're building it looks awesome.

 

[hlj3]

I just received my PM1030V a few weeks ago, and did the 3 man lift on to the bench. If I had to do it again (which I do) I will use a shop crane with a load leveler. I still have to bolt it down, level it and setup. I'll be making tobacco pipes on it for the most part, but I'm sure a few unrelated "special projects" will crop up soon.
H L

 

[KeithK]

I just received my PM1030V a few weeks ago, and did the 3 man lift on to the bench. If I had to do it again (which I do) I will use a shop crane with a load leveler. I still have to bolt it down, level it and setup. I'll be making tobacco pipes on it for the most part, but I'm sure a few unrelated "special projects" will crop up soon.
H L

Congrats, can you keep us posted on your experience with the new machine.