Finally got Logan/ MW 2136 Home

John TV

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Hello All,
Months ago, I posted a few pictures of a old 1948 MW lathe my father -in-law had in his garage, has not run in more than 30 years.

Finally got the chance to get it home and have not completely set it up yet but I am noticing a lot of backlash in the Cross Feed and Compound Feed Screws/nuts ( I mean like 60 thousandths in the cross feed).

Just a very beginning newbie in this hobby and thinking I should just break down and get the new parts, around $440 dollars, and start on a machine that is relatively accurate as opposed to trying to learn to machine the parts myself as a early project. I am curious as to what some of you with lots of experience think. I would rather spend that money on tooling etc. if possible but don't want to get ahead of myself.

Second Part of the question. I am assuming the feed nuts have most of the wear. I was surprised to find the cross feed nut appears to be cast iron as apposed to bronze or brass. Would it be prudent to just replace the cross feed and compound nuts first (about a $100 investment) and see how much it improves the backlash and then replace the screws if necessary... or is that penny wise and pound foolish?

Thanks for your thoughts. Pictures of the lathe are on a earlier post back in December.

JohnView media item 95203
 
I don't know about cast iron versus brass but on the Atlas machines (brass nuts), the cross feed screw, at least if oiled regularly, typically outlives two or three nuts.

But I wanted to add one other thing. I am not sure how it is adjusted (I think I recall that it is adjustable) but there are two sources of apparent backlash in the cross and compound feeds. One is wear on the nut and screw threads. The other is end float in the screw. Crank the carriage off the rear end of the screw first (some compounds you can't do that on) and adjust the screw bearings until you can just feel the drag. If it isn't adjustable on your model machine, buy some bearing shims of the proper diameter and install as many of them as you can.
 
John TV,
I live near the Anoka area and work in Inver Grove Heights.
I did a rebuild on a 1947 MW so I have an idea of what you have.
I'm certainly no expert but as a HM supporter you are welcome in my shop, coffee is hot and strong, very strong.
Additionally, if you'd like I might be able to stop by and give you some ideas.
Warning: I'm an old iron guy. I'd start with the MW learn some stuff and then consider an upgrade if she doesn't do what you need her to do.
My lil MW 10" taught me alot!!

Give a shout should you want assist. I'll attempt to give you as much or as little as you'd like.
Similarly we have many very active and honest HM members who might be able to stop by and help get you started.

Daryl
MN
 
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Also, you might find this fun!!

Daryl
MN
 

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John,

I have the same machine. The nuts on mine are cast iron as well. As you've probably noticed, the new ones that Logan sells are brass. I think in your situation, I would start with just replacing the cross feed nut. Then get yourself tooled up and see how it goes. If the backlash is still a problem, you can replace the screw later. I wouldn't worry about the compound initially, as you won't be using it as much as the cross slide.

Enjoy your new machine!
 
John TV,
I live near the Anoka area and work in Inver Grove Heights.
I did a rebuild on a 1947 MW so I have an idea of what you have.
I'm certainly no expert but as a HM supporter you are welcome in my shop, coffee is hot and strong, very strong.
Additionally, if you'd like I might be able to stop by and give you some ideas.
Warning: I'm an old iron guy. I'd start with the MW learn some stuff and then consider an upgrade if she doesn't do what you need her to do.
My lil MW 10" taught me alot!!

Give a shout should you want assist. I'll attempt to give you as much or as little as you'd like.
Similarly we have many very active and honest HM members who might be able to stop by and help get you started.

Daryl
MN

Thanks Daryl,
I live on strong coffee. I would most appreciate meeting you getting your advice in the future. Give me a little time to get this old girl in place and leveled,which might take me a week or two, then I will give you a shout if that offer still stands. We are not far apart at all. The PDF is really great. I did not have that brochure. I do have the original manual but this helps me to figure out what I have.
 
For the float (end play) in the screws, the nut that sits between the dial and handle can be snugged up to remove this. You might have to loosed the set screw in the graduated dial as well. You cannot go too tight or it will be too hard to turn.

All that being said, I am presuming the setup is the same as a Logan 200 ... and I am going off memory since I sold mine Friday.
 
I don't know about cast iron versus brass but on the Atlas machines (brass nuts), the cross feed screw, at least if oiled regularly, typically outlives two or three nuts.

But I wanted to add one other thing. I am not sure how it is adjusted (I think I recall that it is adjustable) but there are two sources of apparent backlash in the cross and compound feeds. One is wear on the nut and screw threads. The other is end float in the screw. Crank the carriage off the rear end of the screw first (some compounds you can't do that on) and adjust the screw bearings until you can just feel the drag. If it isn't adjustable on your model machine, buy some bearing shims of the proper diameter and install as many of them as you can.


Thanks for the advice. I will check to see if there is adjustment. May be old question to some, but where does one get bearing shims? See, told you I was a newbie
 
John,

I have the same machine. The nuts on mine are cast iron as well. As you've probably noticed, the new ones that Logan sells are brass. I think in your situation, I would start with just replacing the cross feed nut. Then get yourself tooled up and see how it goes. If the backlash is still a problem, you can replace the screw later. I wouldn't worry about the compound initially, as you won't be using it as much as the cross slide.

Enjoy your new machine!


thanks TJ. I think that is great advice. Looking forward to getting it set up and leveled.
 
For the float (end play) in the screws, the nut that sits between the dial and handle can be snugged up to remove this. You might have to loosed the set screw in the graduated dial as well. You cannot go too tight or it will be too hard to turn.

All that being said, I am presuming the setup is the same as a Logan 200 ... and I am going off memory since I sold mine Friday.

thank you Mr. Ed
I will give that a try. I am having a bit of trouble with that dial set screw too. It seems it must have rusted into place, doing the soak, heat, soak, heat program to try to get it to free up. No luck so far but, still patient.
 
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