PM1340 Solid Tool Post for Dorian BXA QC

Would there be any reason to not mill a T-slot on the top of the block?
Then you could use the existing holes for the dowel pins.
 
I do use indexables but quite often I adjust the postion of my TP as well. The one David made looks nice though, he could simply remove the dowel pins & the fence to reposition the TP if needed. I'm curious about these as lots of people seem to be making them lately. However I use my compound slide quite often so I don't think I will be making one anytime soon.

I too use indexables, and I find myself adjusting the tool post fairly often to the point I am going to replace the top nut with a lever soon to make it easier to do so. And I also use my compound often enough that removing it would not be an option for me. I guess I don't have any reason to do something like this yet, but it is an interesting idea, and David's is a nice example.

However, if I do ever need to start taking large cuts on larger work pieces, maybe I can use that as justification with the Significant Other to get a larger lathe? :D
 
Update: Since installing this on my PM1340 two months ago, I have yet to remove it and reinstall the compound. Of course, I haven't machined any tapers in that time, but I have enjoyed the additional rigidity.
 
I just finished mine last night. I used the t-slot which already had the holes drilled for the dowel pins.
There is a reason I did this that I'm too embarrassed to say.
 
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Update: Since installing this on my PM1340 two months ago, I have yet to remove it and reinstall the compound. Of course, I haven't machined any tapers in that time, but I have enjoyed the additional rigidity.

I don't seem to be having any rigidity issues and get good surface finishes on barrels, comps, and whatnot, but then I'm not pushing my lathe very hard. But I do seem to be cutting angled surfaces/bevels quite frequently so the compound gets a fair amount of use.
 
I didn't build my solid tool post riser as a permanent replacement for the compound and switch back and forth when I need to do short tapers. For small tapers I have been grinding tools for that purpose to use with the solid riser. The solid riser is an over all improvement when it comes to finishes but really shines when removing large amounts of material quickly, and for parting & knurling. If what you are doing now is working I would not bother with a solid riser. I built mine to get a little bit more performance out of the size of machine I have. If I had the room and means I would get a second larger lathe for larger work.
 
I just finished mine last night. I used the t-slot which already had the holes drilled for the dowel pins.
There is a reason I did this that I'm too embarrassed to say.

Now I'm curious.....o_O
 
Well, let's just say because you're excited to use your new spiral fluted tap doesn't mean you don't have to check for correct tpi. Idiot. :bang head:
 
Well, let's just say because you're excited to use your new spiral fluted tap doesn't mean you don't have to check for correct tpi. Idiot. :bang head:
Ha ha. We've all been there!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Amazing job and super clean manchine! I am doing this mod right now to my Sieg SC4 8x20 lathe. I purchased 2 blocks of 1.5" x 4" x 4" in 01 tool steel and the other cast iron. I chose to go with the cast iron because I think it will do better to dampen vibrations if any. Right now I am drawing it up on paper and seeing your thread has given me a lot of great ideas. I too saw Stefan's and Robin's videos and after knurlering some 3/4" and seeing the toolpost and compound deflecting I chose to do this mod. I do not think that initially I will use dowel pins and corner block to secure the toolpost because I still want to be able to rotate the tool post if necessary. I do like the way you are using the stop to register your solid post.
Did you have any purpose behind tapering the block the way you did or It was just for cosmetics ?

Thank you
Brandon
 
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