Changing Headstock Oil

No problem Ken.
And reading my response there I didn't mean I was going to mix any although it looks like I was saying that.
Most of the hydraulic oil I've seen have additives (anti wear, corrosion & foam) added to it. It's the detergent you don't want.
Is that correct?
 
Correct, no detergent as it keeps particle suspended and "should" be used with an oil filter system. In genreal you also want to avoid what is known as EP "Extreme Pressure" additives which bond to the surface of metals forming a sacrificial film. These are usually used with sliding gears, like a differential. There are concerns of EP additives attacking yellow metals often used in bushings/gears, but most current EP additives contain inactive sulfer which is less reactive. Also the inactive EP additives requires elevated temperature to be activated, this does not occur in low temperature gear trains. I have spoken with two oil manufactures (Amsoil and Mobil), they claim that their EP addives do not attack yellow metals, but there can also be other problems with excessive wear with softer metals. Best to avoid an EP oil. You do want anti-foam, anti-corrosion and anti-wear properties. I did go to a high quality synthetic oil in my last gear head mill, and it ran cooler, gained about 50 RPM on the top end (less friction) and stayed clear for a long time. But like in cars, probably just extends the usable time before oil changes vs. a good gear quality oil. It also is less viscous at low temperatures. As far as Gear Oil vs. Hydraulic Oil, there are some formulation differences, gear oil is designed to take more extreme gear on gear pressures (so often will have EP additives). Hydraulic oils, lubricate gears and often are used in a mixed gear/hydraulic system, but more designed for anti-foaming, anti-corrosion and lack of compressability. At least that is what I read. In the lathe, it is a low stress environment, any oil is better than no oil.

The Difference Between Gear Oil and Hydraulic Oil
http://www.differencebetween.net/ob...ifference-between-gear-oil-and-hydraulic-oil/
EP additives
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28958/ep-additives-effects
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29031/extreme-pressure-additives
 
There is also a bit of leeway with viscosity. In a usually cold shop you might want a lower viscosity oil than in a hot shop. Just don't get carried away with it, and consider the year around ambient temperatures. Greenland is different than Equador, and some shops have heaters and coolers, and some do not.
 
My shop can be 40 degrees unti lI put my small heater on which gets it up to 50°-55°.
 
General purpose hydraulic oils are formulated for use actuators, transmissions and motors,(Hyd.). They have anti-foam and anti-corrosive additives and good lubricationg properties. I have a Chinese 14x40 lathe and a mill/drill both of which use ISO32. I have replaced with ISO46 with 10% Morey's Heavy Duty Oil Stabiliser and both are noticably quieter. If I am going to use a machine with a gearbox I usually turn it on at low speed and go and have a cup of coffee.
Neodinium magnets plced around the inside of the gearbox are good too.
I have used Morey's for 40+ years and swear by it, temperature readings alone on hydraulic equipment are proof it works. I love Synthetics,(Amsoil in particular),but standard quality oils with Morey's come pretty close in performance and are way cheaper.
 
I use this in my 19x60 Summit lathe gear boxes. It is what I use in my Massey F. tractor's gear box which is combined with the hydraulics. I believe it is ISO 46 or SAE 20. Available at Tractor Supply for less than $50
Traveller RENEW Tractor Fluid, 5 gal.
 
Aussie company Supacheap sells Lucas stuff, sits on the shelf right next to the Morey's and Morey's South Pacific still has an office and wharehouse over the harbor so can't say one way or another.
Lucas was known as the Prince of Darkness by riders of quality British iron.
 
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