Pex pipe

I can make threads. Crimp or snap in, but repairs are a ***** with crimp , estimates tomorrow
Thanks all.
 
The most common method is to pipe 3/4” pipe to a manifold above or below the bathroom. Then 1/2” to each outlet. This works really well when circulation pumps are used then you have hot water in seconds to each outlet. With the low cost of pex and the ability to run with few connections recirculating loops are the way to go.
 
When we moved in here in 2012, we found much of the pipe was not galvanized, but black iron pipe with heavy internal corrosion.

My wife and I replaced most of the interior plumbing with PEX over a weekend. It made a huge difference as some of the pipe we pulled out was corroded to the point that some of the 1/2 and 3/4" pipe was effectively 1/4". It was a relatively easy job, it has also proven to make additions very easy as well, just cut and insert the appropriate fitting where you need it. No fighting with getting just the right angle for an elbow, or cutting a pipe a hair too long or short. Much cheaper than copper too. The only place we have found metal pipe necessary is the shower and spigots / sinks which need the rigidity of metal pipe to keep them in place, but just a foot or so right at the end of the line.

We went with red for hot and blue for cold so the basement looks like a kids model of the human circulatory system. :)

Starting year 6, and not one issue.
 
OK .. I'm going to be the odd man out here, but... When PEX became available, my employer had us use it instead of 3/8 copper to supply food service equipment. It was great to use, and cheap. All went well for a while, and then we got a few calls about leaks. Some were due to those "gator grip" type push in fittings eventually nicking thru the pipe wall where the tiny spring disk grips it. I'm sure the suppliers addressed that by now. However some of the leaks were strangely right along the pipe run somewhere. Leaks in a ceiling or, behind a wall were showing up. I had occasion to run about 100 feet to a food tiki hut on a golf course, 99% buried and the last 2 feet exposed as it went into the hut to the equipment. They had us remove the EQ because the pipe was leaking in that 2 foot section after a few weeks. It finally got to a point where we no longer used it. Now' I'm no rocket scientist, but some of my relatives are, and I had an occasion to ask about PEX he had used for his radiant heat. Usually when I ask this guy about something, I get lost about 3 sentences in. So here is the gist of the matter. PEX pipe is manufactured in such a way that an entire length of pipe is similar to one continuous molecule .....unbroken. This is why it doesn't "glue" well. If/when Pex is exposed to ultraviolet light, apparently the energy is just right to cause some of the atoms to lose their grip on their neighbor. After a while this "imperfection" "can" spread and eventually, depending on how long and how strong the UV exposure was, pinholes or worse will appear. This is why the stuff works so well buried in concrete floors for example. The real dicy part is U have no way of knowing if that pipe was stored on a shipping dock or somewhere else and received a dose of UV before it ever reached U. Even a regular exposure to 40watt florescent lights 6 feet away has caused a pex air line in my home shop to fail..pinhole..and only where the light falls on it!!! I have received similar warnings from other sources. As much as I liked the convenience of that stuff, I will never use it for anything again.
 
Interesting. Part of the run of PEX in my basement has been exposed to direct sunlight on any clear day for over eleven years with no sign of failure. I also have CF and fluorescent lighting. Possibly the color has something to do with it? I used the red PEX for both hot and cold lines. My water system pressure is around 60 psi.

edit: This site seems to support the UV embrittlement. https://www.pexuniverse.com/problems-pex-pipe-and-how-prevent-and-fix-them
 
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I re-piped my house in pex several years ago. Only way to go. I added a 30 valve manifold so everything has its own shut-off including the left sink has a different set of valves than the right sink does in the bath.
 
I have always liked and used PEX and have never seen it leak in the actual pipe. I used it where the water supply was subject to freezing under some cabins---freeze and thaw no leaks.

Last year one of my sons called and said that he had a water leak in his attic could I come help him. Get over there and find the leak is in a length of PEX pipe from the manifold to the water heater. We decided to cut out and splice in a new section of PEX--all good-----about 3 months later he calls and says he has a water leak in the same general area. The same piece that leaked before, leaking again. (not the piece we spliced in). This time we replaced the whole piece from manifold to water heater. So far so good.
I had never seen PEX pipe leak before---guess it could have been from the original installation, maybe bending it to tight.
 
Interesting. Part of the run of PEX in my basement has been exposed to direct sunlight on any clear day for over eleven years with no sign of failure. I also have CF and fluorescent lighting. Possibly the color has something to do with it? I used the red PEX for both hot and cold lines. My water system pressure is around 60 psi.

edit: This site seems to support the UV embrittlement. https://www.pexuniverse.com/problems-pex-pipe-and-how-prevent-and-fix-them

I wonder if the "newer" colored pex has uv blocking in it? Be nice if the cretins who manufacture the stuff belatedly admit the problem and said "it's ok now...we fixed it" ...yeah....right...
 
I have always liked and used PEX and have never seen it leak in the actual pipe. I used it where the water supply was subject to freezing under some cabins---freeze and thaw no leaks.

Last year one of my sons called and said that he had a water leak in his attic could I come help him. Get over there and find the leak is in a length of PEX pipe from the manifold to the water heater. We decided to cut out and splice in a new section of PEX--all good-----about 3 months later he calls and says he has a water leak in the same general area. The same piece that leaked before, leaking again. (not the piece we spliced in). This time we replaced the whole piece from manifold to water heater. So far so good.
I had never seen PEX pipe leak before---guess it could have been from the original installation, maybe bending it to tight.

Yes..that's the kind of stuff we ran into...The pipe could have been left in the sun sometime before u got it, and eventually it failed. Replacing with a different batch of pipe or a piece that wasn't exposed could fix it.
 
I wonder if the "newer" colored pex has uv blocking in it? Be nice if the cretins who manufacture the stuff belatedly admit the problem and said "it's ok now...we fixed it" ...yeah....right...
If you read through the link that I quoted, there was apparently an ongoing lawsuit as of Dec. 2015 with Nibco et.al. concerning failures due to cracking and leaking.

That's what I love about the building trades. New products come out and are promoted as the be all and end all only to find out a few years later that they have some seriuosly fatal flaw. Aluminum wiring, drywall from China, formaldehyde emitting insulation, asbestos, lead paint; the list goes on. It seems that our homes become the surrogate test labs for the testing that should have been done before products are released for sale. Unfortunately, it is often the homeowner who bears the final cost of the failure.
 
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