Harold Hall advanced grinding rest

Did not make it out to look for some metal this week end. Wet and both wife and I had colds. Will try to get out this weekend. and find some chunks. Another member in told me another place to get scraps, that may be better. I also need to go past a machine shop and check with them. Found one close to me. Not many around where I live.
 
Not sure what size you made your lead screws, but I make mine #10-24.

What I do is make them just a tad longer, put a center in the end and turn the end down smaller than the root of the thread. That way you can use a center in the tailstock to support the piece and you'll have some room for your threading tool at the start of the thread. Then, I put them in a collet and trim that extra end off, or you could just saw it off or whatever.

Or, you could cheat and use a die! o_O

Please keep us posted either in this thread or start a new one,
Ted

I made mine #10-24 too. I thought the 78 mm length would be too long to turn down to 0.190" even with the end supported, so I used the new to me, method of step turning to get the diameter right and then I did the unthinkable .......... I used a die, shhhhh don't tell anyone.

I'll give your method a try just and see how it works for me, for future reference. Assuming I can remember if it worked, when I finally need to use it. lol
 
I made mine #10-24 too. I thought the 78 mm length would be too long to turn down to 0.190" even with the end supported, so I used the new to me, method of step turning to get the diameter right and then I did the unthinkable .......... I used a die, shhhhh don't tell anyone.

I'll give your method a try just and see how it works for me, for future reference. Assuming I can remember if it worked, when I finally need to use it. lol

I haven't had any trouble turning or threading any of these screws as long as I had a center in the end. Of course I take light cuts with a nice, sharp HSS tool. Haven't tried carbide, but even with that, if the cuts are light enough, I would think you'd be OK.

Step turning is a find way to go as well. Whatever works out best for you and your equipment. Just have fun!

Ted
 
Looks like your almost done.

Well, I've got most of the "big show" items done, but there are still quite a few parts to make and a lot of putter work to do, like dimple drill parts, making the dials with graduations, altering and making the base angle, making and locating handles for the locking screws, cleaning and fitting, etc.. Still have the fences to make too. It will keep me busy for a while yet. :)

Ted
 
Well, I've got most of the "big show" items done, but there are still quite a few parts to make and a lot of putter work to do, like dimple drill parts, making the dials with graduations, altering and making the base angle, making and locating handles for the locking screws, cleaning and fitting, etc.. Still have the fences to make too. It will keep me busy for a while yet. :)

Ted

I know what you mean. The little things seem to take a lot of time ....... but for me, it all seems to take a lot of time. Enjoyable though.

I have a couple of questions for you, if you don't mind.
1) How did you turn the small leadscrews using the TS? I tried to set that up the other day and found the live center would interfere with the QCTP unless I hung the cutting tool way out from the holder.
2) How do you plan to attach the handles to the locking nuts? I see Harold's plans don't show them being threaded, so I'm guessing it is a press fit. Not sure if I would be able to get the fit good enough to make it stay in place.
 
I know what you mean. The little things seem to take a lot of time ....... but for me, it all seems to take a lot of time. Enjoyable though.

I have a couple of questions for you, if you don't mind.
1) How did you turn the small leadscrews using the TS? I tried to set that up the other day and found the live center would interfere with the QCTP unless I hung the cutting tool way out from the holder.
2) How do you plan to attach the handles to the locking nuts? I see Harold's plans don't show them being threaded, so I'm guessing it is a press fit. Not sure if I would be able to get the fit good enough to make it stay in place.

1- Well, it probably depends on how big your live center's body is, but you'll be taking such light cuts on that small diameter #10-24 screw that hanging the tool out shouldn't be an issue. I still had it in the holder, so here's a picture of the threading tool I used to thread them. Just use as large of a tool bit as you can and I bet you'll do just fine.

2- Harold says in there someplace that he suggests a two part epoxy. I've got some JB Weld that I'll be using. There really won't be much pressure on these so it shouldn't take much to hold them in there. Not much room for tapping the hole if you wanted to go that route. I might put a couple of grooves in the handle and the hole in the head will be rough from the drill so between those surfaces and the JB Weld I don't think it will ever come apart. I'll clean them good with Acetone before I apply the epoxy.

Ted

20180131_111530.jpg
 
Thanks Ted. When I think about it, it's obvious that the tool stick out won't matter with light cuts. Duh!!

I guess I should read the text in his book instead of just looking at the drawings and going from there. I've always been one of those guys that doesn't read the directions until I run into a problem.
 
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