Good evening. I just stumbled on this thread and I am trying to help my elderly father with his DP-600. A couple of weeks ago his return spring broke and when it did, the housing broke as well. We have a replacement from ebay but I am struggling on the correct process to remove the broken housing and install the new one. It appears from what I have seen, I need to remove the adjustment screw that is located on the bottom surface. If I do, will the old assy pull out so I can install a new one and reinstall the screw? Also do I need to preload the spring at all or just install it and adjust with the screw? I am sorry for the obvious questions but I am trying to help AND keep him from getting hurt at 93 years old.
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Delta Dp-600 Drill Press Restoration (photo Intensive)
- Thread starter GarageGuy
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
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- 790
In all honesty, I rebuilt it almost two years ago and don't remember. I'll have to take a look at it again to refresh my memory and get back to you.
GG
Thank you sooo much.In all honesty, I rebuilt it almost two years ago and don't remember. I'll have to take a look at it again to refresh my memory and get back to you.
GG
- Joined
- May 4, 2015
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I think the cover has to be removed to pull the spring out. The spring housing holds the spring , it has to be removed with it broken it may be dangerous if it's still tensioned. Usually the cover is turned to tension the spring , then locked in with the cover bolt or screw. The spring has a notch or slot in it to mount to the shaft this allows you to have the spring in its case to mount it . It's not hard to do but be carefully till it's hooked on the shaft and the bolts started through the case , after its hooked up wind the spring to lift the spindle , I like one turn beyond its full lift to have enough tension to return the spindle up wards . It shouldn't have to much upwards pressure the spindle should lift not snap upwards.
I'm not sure if this will work on the older DP-600 models but will give it a try. They have an adjustment screw that screws in from the bottom of the drill housing that contacts the spring housing where there is a "geared" areas. It then does the adjustment of the spring. Possibly you do this first and then the screw provides for a fine adjustment, I'm just not sure. I sure will try it along with any other ideas. Thank you!
THank you again for the advice. If you think of anything more, please let me know.
In all honesty, I rebuilt it almost two years ago and don't remember. I'll have to take a look at it again to refresh my memory and get back to you.
GG
Hate to ask but I was wondering if you have had any chance to take a look. I got the screw and adjuster out tonight. The housing is not moving but may just need some encouragement to tap it out. I want to try and install the new housing and spring Sunday so any advice is greatly appreciated.
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
- Messages
- 790
Just got a chance to look at it a few minutes ago. There are a couple of different styles, but on mine there is a worm gear and locking screw on the back side of the shaft. I think you loosen the locking screw (top side on mine), then turn the worm gear from the bottom to decrease spring tension until it is fully released. Once it is fully released, the worm gear will drop out. The worm gear must be out before you can remove the main housing. Then remove the nut on the shaft that goes up against the spring housing and slide the housing off. Reverse to reassemble. I hope this helps.
GG
GG
Thank you. That is exactly the same as mine. I have the worm gear out and will try tapping the case out tomorrow. Hopefully that works. I am amazed there is enough adjustment in the worm gear to tighten it. I had thought you need to preload first but now I assume the gear goes in and you can just keep turning it until it is wound enough. We will see Sunday! Thank you again for the advice.
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
- Messages
- 790
The worm gear will spin many revolutions to tighten or loosen. The screw on top locks it so it can't move once you have it where you want it. Line up your pointer and housing to the zero mark on the scale before you start to reassemble. Near as I can remember, that's how it worked.
GG
GG