Drilling a socket?

Being that it is a deep socket and likely pretty hard, you could partially anneal the squared end and be able to drill it easily, you can sit the socket end in water to prevent it from being annealed.
This is exactly how I built a gib screw adjuster for my Craftsman/Atlas. The locknut is a 3/8 , adjusting screw is slotted. A minor pain in the neck to get done right. Found an old Proto deep socket. Annealed ratchet end, drilled to fit a 1/4 rod thru. Drilled rod for a 1/8 flat screwdriver blade. Soldered a nut into the business end of the socket deep enough into it to allow socket engagement with gib locknut. Now my flat blade screwdriver is held centered over the adjusting screw.

gib tool 1.jpggib tool.jpg
I did not attempt to drill the socket first. I assumed my "less than toolroom" quality drill bits were not gonna cut it. :cautious:
 
Sorry, I had an issue logging in, but all seems to work now. I finished the wrench over the weekend and have posted photos in the shop made tools forum. Thanks for the help, I'm happy with the way it turned out and it fits nice in the hand.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/t-handle-socket-wrench.69272/

Why a socket over a box wrench with the other end cut off?

It is a small lathe and a T handle just feels more comfortable. Probably just habit, it is what I'm used to doing with the old post.
 
I drilled and tapped the M16 centre bolt to take a M8 SHCS, put a compression spring and washer on the M8 to keep the socket for the top nut captive but have enough lift to disengage from the centre bolt's nut - with a 12-point socket it can be repositioned every 30 degrees so the handle's clear of the working space after tightening down (also, I have a thrust bearing between the nut and and the QCTP which lets it tighten down tighter without a lot of grunting and straining as the friction's eliminated and all the force goes into the thread)

Excuse the CAD rendering, easier than fighting my way to the lathe and taking a photo right now!

QCTP top handle.PNG

I'm sure it could be improved, perhaps a tapered / conical cap that the SHCS is set into would look better, but it works...

Dave H. (the other one)
 
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Why a socket over a box wrench with the other end cut off?

This is what I did. Works great since the nut on the tailstock is the same size, which is where it lives.
 
Any steel to hard to drill can be drilled with a common cement bit...
 
I have done a few for various machines. Anneal it and have at it, even in a softer state that socket will be fine for your intended use. Bore out the square drive and press the hammer head in. Drill thru and use the handle to hold the assembly together. These work great for milling machine draw bars.
IMG_3003.JPG
 
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