Decision support on an indexing rotary capability

Clock work

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Greetings... several hours of research has narrowed solution space on an indexing rotary capability and appear to be at the limits of my ability to contribute further. What I end up selecting at this point appears to be describable by most of the following.

A rotary table with indexing capability instead of an index table. Perhaps to include super spacer capability on top of the general indexing rather than as a replacement for it. One of my greatest (recognized) uncertainties is the value of super-spacing on top of indexing. Super spacer capability appears to more than double the cost for any given size table for a particular brand.

6 or 8" with 8 seeming to make more sense. FYI, this is going on a PM 935.

Big preference for Taiwan (of course I'd be.. willing.. to consider Switzerland or Germany:) and big preference for manufacturers willing to actually put their name on it.

Specific products that seem like good solutions to my zero-experience eyes, in two groupings:

The super-spacer group:
  • The cost is no object solution appears to be the Vertex 8" super spacer rotary table with indexing accessories. No missing functionality. The 2000-blade Swiss Army knife..... back home in your drawer:)
  • I like what I hear about Phase 2 but cannot determine if their 8" super spacer includes the indexing bits (sector arms, plates, etc).
  • Grizzly H7506.. I think this just a 6" table but with an 8" face plate. Mitigating factor? No apparent dividing bits.. show stopper if true.
The no-super-spacer group
  • Vertex 8" RT... dividing HW available... half the cost of the SS.
Phase-2 8" RT... dividing HW avail.
  • Grizzly - multiple 8" RT... dividing HW avail
Trying to summarize my inexperience-driven uncertainty...
  • Does it generally work out that doubling the cost of this solution to have access to SS is worth it? I know you can't speak for me... for the collective "you"... generally.
  • Since all of these are RT's a their core, I assume they are all also 90:1 instead of the 40:1 of a dedicated indexing head. I realize there is probably more precision in RT mode with 90:1 but it seems like that would get old quickly with lots of index work. Anyone with personal experience on this?
  • 10" non-SS RT's are obviously more precise as RT's... Any value in someone not making parts for F35's to go up to 10?
I'm sure there is a real possibility I have driven in a ridiculous part of solution space that is obvious to anyone with actual experience, so don't hesitate to set me straight. No beliefs here are chiseled in stone. Thanks.

CW
 
As always, it depends on what you plan to make with the tooling. If you plan to make gears of various sizes and tooth counts, a standard dividing head might be best, and versatile over many division counts. If making 4, 6, 8, 12 division holes, notches, or radial slots, then a super spacer would likely be better, and lots faster (and more idiot proof) to index. For all around use when supreme accuracy is not the end all, a horizontal/vertical rotary table with an added tail stock would be widely useful. An added set of dividing plates would give it even more functionality, and more accuracy. For a 9x35 machine, I think I would go with a 8" rotary table, have one on my 8x32 Millrite, though it is pretty heavy, ~80 pounds. A 6" is a lot lighter (and less rigid) but you will often run out of real estate for clamping down work unless you add an oversize tooling plate to the top of it. I have that issue with my 8" rotary table.
 
I have a Yaeshu(sp) 10 in Rotary Table, a bit big for my small table bridgeport and a bit on the heavy side for my age. but it does have a built in 5 degree indexing that is nice beside the dials. and for what I paid I can live with the size and weight. I got to leave right now and remove it from it hydraulic motorcyle stand for lifting to the Bridgeport and use it to pull the motor on the buggy.

ps it is a lot heavier then it felt last time I moved it.
 
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Many dividing heads have quick index capability, but unless you get one that has the feature of disengaging the worm (usually on a universal dividing head) you still have to do lots of cranking. Most super spacers do not have a worm drive, so the indexing capability is quite limited. A universal dividing head is more expensive due to the change gears provided and the input gearing and worm disengagement feature, but is much more versatile than a SS. I need both a rotary table and a universal dividing head, but rarely use the rotary table. The universal dividing head has the capability of dividing prime numbers, also.
 
Thank you much, Guys, for the insightful replies. They all truly helped. B... did not even think to check for the presence of worm-disengagement on the candidates... that lead to a surprise on the Phase2 super spacer model I would not have seen otherwise. Ed... hilarious, but the idea of using my HF 20% coupon for a hydraulic cart for when I have to yank my KZ1000 engine out of the frame was even more helpful! Bob.. the firehose of good advice continues:) Thanks!

I put in about 4 hours of "research" (funny how that term means something different than it used to:).. Decision made and ordered. I ended up with a clear (by my criteria) choice of the Grizzly 8" non-spacer H/V Yuasa-knockoff rotary table and for some reason I went looking for one last photo of the Vertex HV-8 and, presto, there's 4 of them for sale by a guy I know (Matt/PM) at not just the Grizzly price but with free shipping so like $200 off and I get Taiwan instead of just China. Only downside was I put like 4 hours getting to the bottom (understanding the small spaces of the solution set is a bear when you don't have the thing or the experience) of it so I could leak something I'd love to own into my family for Father's Day but unfortunately now I own and will soon have it. Bummer sorta. If anyone knows where there's an early 70's Husky 360 RT/Sportsman for sale, PLEASE message me before Father's Week (Hey.. we're celebrating critical functionality here:).

Thank you again guys.

CW

Screen Shot 2018-05-26 at 10.42.20 AM.png
 
** UPDATE ** Am I stupid, or... is my table screwed, on top of me being stupid?

The table arrived yesterday (heavier than I thought... but more likely, I'm more ancient than I remembered). Tonight I attempted to jump inside and see if anything needs to be cleaned up before I start using it. The divider plates and tail stock are due in next week and I was quite excited to start playing with it. Stefan G has a very nice teardown vid of the 6" and I ensured I was informed by that prior to starting. Mostly identical with one significant exception. Everything was humming along until it was time to slide the worm out of the base and then no joy. Hard stop. All screws have been backed off/removed.

What I see is what appears to be a type of bearing (not sure what to call it other than the opposite of a sealed bearing).

20180601_213029.jpg

What you see to the left of the bearing is the worm "carrier" going into the cast base. This bearing is not that in the HV6 table Steffan showed in his videos.. Just a simple shaft with no bearing. Back to this picture... the parts to the right of the bearing head over to the worm and that shaft is carried by the ID of the bearing. Look carefully... you see that the OD of the bearing extends up above the worm "carrier" to its left. It is physically impossible to extract the worm assembly because that bearing interferes. Video to illustrate:

(if it doesn't show, it's at youtu dot be slash DVRRloLEkNY)

Somebody got it in. There is a ring with two 5mm grub screws holding the shaft (the one passing thru the ID of the bearing toward the handle). That ring is a BRUTE to turn... I removed the screws and put a 25mm cap screw into one of the holes and used a tool to try and turn that while holding shaft stationary. Just a BEAR to make any progress at all. After I loosen it a little, the left plate of the bearing in the photo remains snug up against the worm "carrier" and the rest of the bearing seems to relax some and spread. The only thing I can think that can get that shaft out is to pull that nut on the outside off completely (though it moves with such difficulty I'm not convinced I won't hurt something by pressing the issue). Then pull the worm "carrier" and push the shaft completely inside the casting (if it will go.. I have my concerns) and pray the bearing slides off and I'm able to slide the bearing off the shaft and then pull the shaft out thru the hole. I did not realize the crack addict that designed the SB7 shaper later worked on rotary tables:)

I want to slow the train down and hear from the smart guys. Anyone have any thoughts on this? If this turns into a monster pushup, I will just return it and get the Grizzly table... my second choice.

I was also not wild about this rust on the inside of the table casting but it is honestly in a position of no importance. The paperwork indicates my table has been sitting around since 2016 so it had time to rust. I also notice that the interior is not coated with that red oil-tolerant paint you see in SG's Vertex videos and others. Guessing it's not a big deal other than establish the curiosity that maybe it's not actual Vertex.

20180601_212558.jpg

So.. anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance.

CW
 
It really amazes me to read about people buying cheap made junk at high prices and after getting them home and looking them over find all sorts of things wrong with them. Then we will debate about them for weeks. An old adage you get what you pay for.
 
Thank you.. My existence is one long series of continuous extreme failure. If you saw Flowers for Algernon, that was basically about me, except the part in the middle where he was smart.

Still looking for input on moving that bearing.
 
Clock work,
Your detail photography is great but you're not displaying the "big picture". Please show "overview" photos, then zoom in.
You mention "a ring with two 5mm grub screws holding the shaft" but I don't see it in any of the photos. Where is it?
WAG = The grub screws have done damage where they bit into the soft shaft and that's why the ring is hard to remove. Keep trying. Can you see shaft damage through one or both of the grub screw holes?
 
Add a picture of the exterior of the housing around the worm shaft (as in the video, with nothing attached to the shaft).
 
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