Hafco AL900A lathe, is anyone able to identify what it really is?

Bob, with oils it seems the problem is to buy oil that does not have additives. The additive package is what the oil companies use as their "marketing point of difference" - remember the Castrol ads "Oils ain't just oils". Buying a non-additive oil is thus a problem.
Your point about Chain Saw bar oil is noted thanks.
When I got my first car, 20W40 was the standard oil as was 90 weight gear oil. Neither are made now. The closest you can get to the former IIRC is 15W40 in synthetic,
and the latter is 80W90: despite any manufacturer's claims, it pour like water and it is the additive package that gives it the viscosity. One thing I know for sure, the wider the multi-viscosity the quicker it leaks out in the older vehicles.
The Penrite company do a whole range of "older" oils for collector cars, product is based on decade of manufacture of the car.
So for oil issues I find myself having to shop for Penrite.
They actually make a Veteran spec oil (up to roughly 1919) and it says on the bottle to change it no later than 500 miles of use! That gives an idea of how much difference the additive package, detergent and an oil filter makes when current oil change intervals are around 10,000km (6,000 miles for the Americans reading this). Easiest way to get minimal additives is to go for hydraulic oil, but it typically comes in 44 gallon drums or ISO cubes as most hydraulic devices are losey or large or both.
Auto tranny fluid is hydraulic oil, but with additives, I have plenty of it but can't use it in lathe.
 
Carbide inserts - are the Chinese ones on ebay ok or cheap rubbish?
 
2 points::

1) Hydraulic oil is often available in 1 gallon bottles. I use ISO 32 in my Lathe headstock and carriage and ISO 68 for the ways.

2) I have had good luck so far with the cheapo Chinese carbide bits. The only one I have damages is one that took a hit by a jaw on the 4-jaw while spinning at 1000 RPMs. Broke a sizable chip off the corner. Still using it on the other corner.
 
Mitch. Thanks for that. I did wonder if the Chinese bits were inferior or not. So hard to know these days if the name brand stuff is just the Chinese stuff rebranded at 4x the price or is genuinely of better quality.
 
I did wonder if the Chinese bits were inferior or not.

Notice that I very carefully did not compare the Chinese carbide to anyone elses carbide.
I just stated that for the things I have been machining they work well for me on my lathe.
I have used them on 4140, mild steel, and 6061T6

I looked at it this way:: at those prices I can/could afford to receive pure junk and not get upset about it.
On the other hand, the carbide tipped tools I used on my Taig micro-lathe lasted 10+ years without even appearing to wear (6061 T6 only)
 
Mitch, photos attached of some of what came with my lathe. There doesn't appear to be any markings on this stuff, but by the stile of the boxes I assume Chinese.
The ones with the bits removed, the bits typically have 2 of the 3 tips chipped off.
There are some bit holders marked IIRC "Serco" that I haven't photographed yet.

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Wipe 'em down with oil, and get fresh inserts.

Ebay is generally where I look, but do read the catalogs by the top carbide manufactures--it will give you a lot better insight as to what you might see on ebay/amazon in terms of chip breakers, coatings,...
 
Mitch. Ok, what are the top names? Showing my total ignorance here.....
 
Spent this arvo clearing a spot for the lathe and then getting it into that spot and then leveling it. Used the top of the cross slide as a reference with it parked at the spindle, no problems. Then used the 2 x "V"s at the tail stock end and could not get it. Very curiously, the "V"s are different heights - wonder why?
So took the carriage down that end and used the same location on the cross slide and got it level (no twist).
I have a Gunner's Quadrant somewhere that is illusive at the moment, once I find it, I will use it to confirm the leveling as it is very accurate. Only had a 3' carpenter's level this arvo.

First question:
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- where will I get the 30T and 32T gears that are missing along with the underside clamp plate for the steady rest?
In photo is the original tool head - I think Bob wanted to see it?
 
Next question: is it normal to get spare 3 jaw chuck jaws?
I was under the impression that you only need to run the jaws out of the chuck and swap end to make them inside jaws, so do not need
a set of opposite jaws?
Is there anything odd or different about these? See photo.
- Also there is a brass cog, I seem to recall seeing something somewhere on the internet and it said there should be 2 of them and they go in the apron? Worries me that there is this lonely one that is not in the apron!
- Does anyone recognise the little cylindrical
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stepped dohickey? At the bottom end there is a small plastic insert?
 
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