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- Feb 13, 2017
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I have a Cr'man 12X36. 101-27440 to be exact. A water level is not really suitable for machine leveling. It does OK for framing and masonry work, with a few limitations. A good start would be a 48" mason's level for the base and bench work. Beyond that, a much more severe accuracy is required.
The bed will flex along its' length. While it needn't be true level, it does need to be off by the same amount at each end. I used a piece of 4X6X3/16 box tubing as a riser between the chip pan and the machine. But I am very tall, 6'3", and that's what it took to raise the machine to fit me. The machine was trued to the (sub)frame while it was laying on saw horses. The level used was a Stanley level used for commercial office machines. Overall, an accuracy of 0.005" per foot. I checked it several times while bolting in the shims to get the frame true. The whole assembly was then lifted onto a homemade steel frame, mounted at three (3) points, with a 1/2" thick rubber gasket spacer at each point.
If I had had a more precision level, I would have used it. But while I knew what needed to be done, I didn't have the most accurate tools to work with. Doing with what I had, but that's the story of my life.
There are some tricks to using a water level. First and foremost, use a single piece of tubing, 1/2" OD or so. Use alcohol straight or mixed no more than half with water. DO NOT use isopropyl, drug store rubbing compound. Use a good brand of vodka or Everclear booze with food colouring so you can see it. That will give you an accuracy of 1/16" at 100 ft. While 1/64" accuracy is acceptable for a cabinet maker, in machine work it is so sloppy as to get work thrown in the scrap pile. FYI, 1/64" = 0.015+
There are some levels from China fairly cheap. For a little more you can find on eBay a Starrett or B&S. They may need to becalibrated trued before use, but then so should Chineseium. Look within your means, but definately use something better than a mason's level to set a machine, even if the work desired is somewhat forgiving.
The bed will flex along its' length. While it needn't be true level, it does need to be off by the same amount at each end. I used a piece of 4X6X3/16 box tubing as a riser between the chip pan and the machine. But I am very tall, 6'3", and that's what it took to raise the machine to fit me. The machine was trued to the (sub)frame while it was laying on saw horses. The level used was a Stanley level used for commercial office machines. Overall, an accuracy of 0.005" per foot. I checked it several times while bolting in the shims to get the frame true. The whole assembly was then lifted onto a homemade steel frame, mounted at three (3) points, with a 1/2" thick rubber gasket spacer at each point.
If I had had a more precision level, I would have used it. But while I knew what needed to be done, I didn't have the most accurate tools to work with. Doing with what I had, but that's the story of my life.
There are some tricks to using a water level. First and foremost, use a single piece of tubing, 1/2" OD or so. Use alcohol straight or mixed no more than half with water. DO NOT use isopropyl, drug store rubbing compound. Use a good brand of vodka or Everclear booze with food colouring so you can see it. That will give you an accuracy of 1/16" at 100 ft. While 1/64" accuracy is acceptable for a cabinet maker, in machine work it is so sloppy as to get work thrown in the scrap pile. FYI, 1/64" = 0.015+
There are some levels from China fairly cheap. For a little more you can find on eBay a Starrett or B&S. They may need to be
Bill Hudson