It’s a precision Matthews PM30-MVIm not going to attempt to answer your question but it might be good to post the make and model of the machine also.
It looks like the schematic was for something similar to UK wiring. Unlike our 240 wiring which is split L1-N-L2, theirs is just L and N. The P.E. is their earth or ground and is tied to the electrical chassis. For US wiring, black would go to L and red would go to their N, and green or bare would go to PE. Grizzly uses the same wiring convention on their G0755 mill which is a 240 volt machine.
If the cord in your hand is the power cord, I would color the insulation of the cord red with a magic marker so someone wouldn't mistake it for a neutral wire. I do so on both exposed ends, the plug connection and inside the box where it connects to the terminal strip.
What RJ said.I only see the designated L1 as being fused though, if I connect the second hot to N, that would leave that line unprotected, right?
Got it, thanks for the input everybody!What RJ said.
In the US the second 'hot' would be protected by the breaker. 220 single phase breakers protect both poles.
Connect the PE (green) to the Earth connection on your outlet/box. it doesn't carry functional current - it is your protection if something comes loose or fails in such a way that the chassis of the mill becomes 'hot'.
Oh I will, trying to get it powered up still!If you have time you should post about what you think of your PM-30. Not a lot out on those machines.
This is probably really basic, but I’m new to 220v wiring. This schematic shows L, N, PE. Picture attached.
I’m assuming:
L = Hot
PE = Ground
N = Nuetral?
Where does the second hot in my 220v circuit go to? I didn’t expect to find a neutral connection on the schematic, rather two hots and a ground.
View attachment 275629