Need help ASAP if not sooner

Mutt

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Aug 16, 2014
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Hey y'all. the spindle start switch on my Grizzly 4003 just took a major dump. It is obsolete from Grizzly (go figure)

I need the lathe NOW. The switch(es) that are in it are a real joke. Worse designed pieces of crap if I ever saw .
Ok, so here is the wiring diagram for the switches.
View attachment 277504


It is located on the lowest shaft on the front of the lathe under the carriage feed shaft, left hand end. My lathe is 20 years old next year. The switch has changed 2 more times since the lathe was new in 1999. View attachment 277503


The newest type of switch they use is a simple wheel'd limit switch (pair joined together, same switch, just turned over 180º)
View attachment 277505
The wires haven't ever changed, only the type of switch. I need to hot-wire the lathe until I can get a real drum switch . So y'all electrical folks give a brother a hand here. Which wires will I need to join together with a common toggle switch to make the lathe motor turn on? I don't need the chunk to run in the reverse direction for the time being, just for the chuck to turn when I throw the switch. If I have to hand start the chuck, that's fine too. had to do that a few times anyway. when the start cap blows
 
Cannot see attachments.

Contact digikey as they have lots of items.

Switch craft and other manufacturers make many assorted types.

If fail due to contact failure look at using a contactor or relay.

If mechanical look at better brands.

Post photos of switch.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Fiind an inexpensive "Drum Switch" on either Ebay or Amazon, They exist, wiring is not difficult, hook it up as diagrammed and you're good to go. Don't attempt to use the mechanizm shown in your diagrams, its likely that is why the switch failed.
 
So you need to see what switch strokes when in the forward position. That’s the one your saying doesn’t work. Why not just switch forward switch with the reverse one which should be good. Then order a new one. Be aware the terminals are marked nc and no. Which means normally open and normally closed. Wire the same way or won’t work right.
Technically you should pull out a multimeter and verify with voltage readings or a resistance test. Check to see if switch is opening and closing.
 
Just get a VFW, and run your lathe through that? I recently added a vfw to mine, and I will never use the start/stop/reverse switches, that came with the lathe, again. Just an idea.
 
Just get a VFW, and run your lathe through that? I recently added a vfw to mine, and I will never use the start/stop/reverse switches, that came with the lathe, again. Just an idea.



I’m sure you mean VFD. Unless you want veterans to turn it on:D
Using the vfd buttons kind of causes the operator to lean over the machine. Defeating the purpose of apron controls. And on a lathe is a little dangerous.
If you break a button on vfd it’s done. Break a switch on a lathe you replace it. Just my 2 cents.
 
Mutt - Do you have the schematic for the rest of the controls? Hard to tell what to jumper (and possibly what needs to be open at the same time) by seeing just the switch wires.

Cadillac - A VFD can usually be wired to the same switch or a similar switch so you don't need to give up on the easy to access and familiar apron control handle by having a VFD.
 
If it has a jog button just jump the two wires through an on off switch
 
Mutt - Do you have the schematic for the rest of the controls? Hard to tell what to jumper (and possibly what needs to be open at the same time) by seeing just the switch wires.

Cadillac - A VFD can usually be wired to the same switch or a similar switch so you don't need to give up on the easy to access and familiar apron control handle by having a VFD.

Thanks I know I have wired acouple of them. Subtlehustle suggested a vfd and eliminate the apron controls using the buttons on vfd which is why I responded as I did.
 
I’m sure you mean VFD. Unless you want veterans to turn it on:D
Using the vfd buttons kind of causes the operator to lean over the machine. Defeating the purpose of apron controls. And on a lathe is a little dangerous.
If you break a button on vfd it’s done. Break a switch on a lathe you replace it. Just my 2 cents.
Lol, yes I obviously meant VFD, didn't even realise that. Thanks autocorrupt!
Any rate, you are assuming, for some reason, that I have awkwardly placed my "vfd" far above, and behind my lathe, and yes that could be dangerous, however, I have mounted it under my lathe, beneath the workbench. Mounting it in this location, keeps it free from chips, and in close reach. All of that said, if replacing the button on the ops lathe were as easy as that, this post wouldn't exist. He cannot find a replacement, therefore I was merely suggesting, not THE, but A solution for him to consider.
 
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