How to remove this shaft? (Deckel clone)

pontiac428

John Newman
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
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I am not sure of how to pull this shaft. The thread is about 10 x 1.0 mm, very fine. I tried using a piece of tubing as a rigid sleeve and using the special nut to press the casting off, but the shaft is too firmly held and the nut too hard to hold with a pin spanner for that approach. What I need to do is cylinder grind the shaft to remove excess taper, and enlarge the relief that doesn't line up with the locking screw very well. This is a non-negotiable modification at this point, since the bug/defect is affecting the mechanism's performance. I'd gladly turn a new shaft, but if I can't get the old one out first, I'm SOL. Any ideas?
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Hmmm maybe if you retried the approach you tried already with the tube and nut but this time maybe try heating up the cast iron portion which should cause it to expand and help release its hold on the shaft.

One thing i do not understand however is why the difficulty with the nut and crecent wrench?
 
From the looks of it the nut is round with no flats for a crescent wrench.

If you have access to a hydraulic press, maybe a bar with a hole or slot to hold the casting up and some sort of a stirrup-like arrangement to go around the casting and press on the nut. You would need a horizontal piece on the nut, with a vertical support with a vertical support on either side, and a crossbar that goes across the top of the vertical supports and over the casting to allow you to press down on the nut.

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I love PB Blaster I’d soak the joint overnight tapping it when I thought of it. Use your process making sure the tube is parrallel and perpendicular to the base good thick washers too. Once a good amount of tension is on the nut I’d heat it and have my toes crossed the whole time. Good luck.
 
Maybe I'll mill a pair of rebated flats on the special nut and try the tube thing again with some heat. The shaft was roll pinned to the iron casting, but I do not know if it was interference fit, epoxied, or threaded. A little heat would soften epoxy and help loosen an interference fit.
 
Clam shell type of puller with tabs at each end for jack screws. Two piece that would fit snug around the recess in shaft. Use jack screws to apply pressure near face where it mates. It would allow room to directly heat flange instead of whole casting.
 
From the looks of it the nut is round with no flats for a crescent wrench.

If you reread the OP you will see where he stated he used a piece of tubing and a "special nut" to try and press the shaft off. I dont think that special nut is what he has picture.
 
You could drill a small hole in the casting and press it out from that side, and then fill the hole with JB weld, or just leave it. Mike
 
If you reread the OP you will see where he stated he used a piece of tubing and a "special nut" to try and press the shaft off. I dont think that special nut is what he has picture.
The nut pictured is what I referred to as a special nut. It is M10x1mm (very uncommon) and has two engagement holes for a spanner. It took too much force using a tube sleeve during my attempt to want to repeat. I will mill two flats into it regardless of outcome!
You could drill a small hole in the casting and press it out from that side, and then fill the hole with JB weld, or just leave it. Mike
This may end up being the best way to go. If I drill a 1/4" hole and drift it out using a hydraulic press I'll probably win. Then I can turn an indicator point for radius setting and press it into the leftover hole. That sounds like a winner. Wish me luck!
 
If thats the "special nut" is it possible that the other end is threaded into the cast piece?
 
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