Help selecting (understanding) carbide selection

So Mal, in a very simplified level, I would need a T-i -11-R tool? It must be triangular it must internal it must be 11mm and it must be right direction. I have just found it doesn't exist this way (not the tool, but the numbers) I though I read this TOOL has the relief built in so I need 0 relief angle of it will be multiplied.
since I'm not going to get this convoluted, not standardized "system", can you lead me to a frame and exact model to purchase? I will be doing fine threads and course threads, hence the 2 inserts I thought I purchased.
Cheers

Your choice is limited to the inserts in the Mitsubishi catalog that fit your tool. Maybe my previous link didn’t work so here it is again http://www.mitsubishicarbide.net/we...20058164&zish_di_bnri_id=&tlng_sht_disp_flg=1{nope, link still doesn’t work but do a Google search on your tool’s part number then click the available inserts link}
And just in case, here’s the table:
c6820071709b6a6bbaccdd8f8ffef298.jpg

Each insert is designed for a different type and size of thread so you need to know this before choosing the code. For example if you were cutting a standard M10x1.5 thread you’d look up the root radius or truncation (there are phone apps, online calculators and paper charts for this) in this example it’s 0.188mm=0.007”. This give an insert code of MMT11IR200ISO (11mm insert, Internal, Radius 0.200mm). You could also use this insert to cut larger threads but not smaller as the root radius will be too large and the bolts may not fit. Does that make sense?

Mal
 
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For example if you were cutting a standard M10x1.5 thread you’d look up the root radius or truncation (there are phone apps, online calculators and paper charts for this) in this example it’s 0.188mm=0.007”. This give an insert code of MMT11IR200ISO (11mm insert, Internal, Radius 0.200mm). You could also use this insert to cut larger threads but not smaller as the root radius will be too large and the bolts may not fit. Does that make sense?
Mal

Just to add to my last post that it’s not the diameter of the thread that’s important but the pitch. You could cut a 100mm diameter thread with the same insert as long as the pitch is 1.5mm.

Mal
 
Thanks Mal & all that jumped on board. I'll tell ya, i was so frustrated with this, i have the formula to my wife to read and had her come up with her own answer... It really isn't standardized at all. P.s. I have never gone to my wife for anything in the technical/mechanical in our 29 years.
it come down to just searching for 11ir inserts do the trick. Now if I needed something special (radius or chip breaker etc...) I'd be in trouble again. AND this is one insert of many that I need to replace. I'm guessing I'll be back here when I need others. I think many folks here that have been doing this a while take it for granted, but this is confusing.
one question for you Mal, I will be doing both fine and course threads, say I need something outside the range of that insert, is that the AG60 vs A60 in this case?
Thank you
 
Here’s a guide to the Mitsubishi code for inserts for your tool courtesy of carbidedepot.com
62148843efe73035d09535caf566d1c3.jpg

The difference between the A and AG inserts is the range of pitches they cover. If you want to keep an insert in stock to cover most eventualities the AG is more universal.

Finally (I hope!) do you need L or R inserts? If you’re cutting internal threads the conventional way with the tool cutting on the bore wall nearest you and cutting from right to left, you will need a L insert. This is the opposite to the inserts you bought. This means that the size&shape code would be 11ILAG60.

Hope that helps,


Mal
 
Per what Mal indicated, the AG60 is a partial thread cutter which will cover a pitch range of 48-8 TPI. There are full thread inserts which are spcific to a particular type and pitch thread, really only needed for special threads or if you do a lot of threading with a particular pitch, otherwise go with a partial thread which cuts like 80-90% of the ideal thread. My internal threading tooling originally came with an A60 insert and I often ran into problems with not being able to achieve a deep enough thread cut for the TPI, so the AG60 is preferred unless all you plan to do is finer threads. If you are doing traditional right hand threading you would need an IR type insert, if you flip the bar 180 degrees and cut your thread from the inside out then you need an IL type insert. If you are doing external threads then you would need ER (right hand thread) and possibly EL (left hand thread) inserts. You do not need to buy a ton of inserts, I am still on my original insert after lots of threading and I still have two more cutting tips on the same insert I haven't used.

As far as nomenclature of holders and inserts, and all the nuances, in a way it is like learning a new language and takes time to understand the basics. It took me a long of time to first figure out the types of holders and insert styles that I need. Then I looked at the nomenclature and it started to make sense. There is also two naming standards which is ANSI (imperial) and the ISO (metric) so you can get burned with some of the metric specific tooling that requires metric inserts or proprietary inserts. There is a separate nomenclature for the holders and the inserts they take. In the US ANSI is the predominate nomenclature. The first thing to determine is the size of the holders that fit your lathe holders, so something like a BXA is typically matched to 5/8" tool holders or 3/4" with an oversized holder. The increments for holder sizes is 1/16" so for 5/8" tooling they will be a size 10, 3/4" will be size 12. When you know the tool holder sizes you need you then determine the type/styles of insert you want to use, the rake (positive, neutral, negative) of the insert as it sits in the pocket and the angle of the insert relative to the work (so something like left hand, neutral, right hand, etc.). There are lots of other details, but after awhile it starts to make sense when you start looking at the lathe tooling catalogues. It just takes time, the same holds true for grinding your own cutters.
 
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If you are doing traditional right hand threading you would need an IR type insert, if you flip the bar 180 degrees and cut your thread from the inside out then you need an IL type insert. If you are doing external threads then you would need ER and possibly ER inserts.

Oops, yup you’re correct, my mistake. IR and ER profiles are flipped by the manufacturers so Sean, the designation should be 11IRAG60 for traditional threading.

Mal
 
I guess it's the German in me....I like structure and consistency....not necessarily the rule in this. I have my inserts all worked out, I'm guessing internal threading is one of the more convoluted ones, so I sharpened my teeth on that one.
that's all for the input. I guarantee another newb will read and learn from my confusion.
 
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