Total Newb, Rushing Down Another Rabbit Hole!

well i've been a busy boy!
here is the latest printing
M8 nuts bolts, and washers- just for fun!

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I have an Ender 3 and I will agree that the Pro really isn't worth it for what you're getting. That said, it's meant to be a bargain basement entry into printing, so while it works great, and will teach you much, there's plenty of room for upgrades and customization to make it even better when you want to. You can end up spending just as much in the long run as some of the other printers out there, but you'll also be an expert, and know more than how to just turn it on, as well as getting to that point at your own pace. You're going to have a lot of fun with this that's for sure, and I guarantee that you'll be looking back at that 41 minute print time for that little owl and laugh later. :)

As far as pro/cons among brands, each type is more or less the same thing, just with a different list of features that come stock. so there isn't really much mud to sling, just different preferences.
 
I have used Shapeways (.com) for special shapes for higher temperature science experiments, like 700 degrees F. They print green ceramic, then glaze and fire the part. You send in a Solidworks model and they print it and do the rest. The last part I did was a tube with some somewhat complicated inner and outer structure, some radial holes, maybe 1.5” OD by 4” long. A couple weeks or less, $17 each. I felt that was very cost effective.
 
here are some more prints...

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(i poorly glued it together) it was printed in 3 parts

AXA toolholder hangers with mounting screw bores

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the single greatest improvement i could recommend to a newbie getting an Ender 3,
do the 3 point bed leveling conversion
there are 2 types i'm aware of, one you replace the base mount plate and you don't have to drill your heat plate

the other bed leveler print was developed and shared by member @Rex Walters
here is the page from where i got the download



thank you @Rex Walters !!!

the 3 point leveling changed the game completely

there is only one problem, you must drill your heat plate very close to the circuit printed on the backside of the plate
but if you are careful and remove the heat plate from the printer, a single 4mm countersunk hole is all that is necessary

i didn't take pictures of the process, but i did take pictures between prints of the installed 3 point retrofit

the red piece is the 3d printed part

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no need to replace the carriage plate.

this was an easy upgrade that makes a huge of difference in print quality and ease of leveling
i'd highly recommend a 3 point level to anyone, however you go about it!
happy printing!
 
With all respect to Ulma Doctor there's an even better way. Get rid of the springs entirely using solid shims, or just tighten them down all the way. Then get a probe and do mesh leveling. You'll only have to level when you change the bed surface.
 
With all respect to Ulma Doctor there's an even better way. Get rid of the springs entirely using solid shims, or just tighten them down all the way. Then get a probe and do mesh leveling. You'll only have to level when you change the bed surface.
thank you very much for the information! :grin:
 
Mike you are having so much fun.


This points out a fundamental doubt about 3D printers is everybody has their viewpoint and machine. I ran headlong into this wall when I decided I truly needed a lathe and mill. For every single person who liked and used a particular machine there were lots of detractors and not being versed in any of it finally just had the raw economics make the decision. The best deal I could find on CL for the size I envisioned work I thought I'd be doing.


You are absolutely right about this. I've been interested in 3D printing from before I had an interest in machining. In fact I was debating a 3D printer vs the Sherline lathe I eventually bought (3D printers cost a lot more and could do a lot less back then) so I've been following them for at least 10 years.

I joined a FB 3D printer group, and when people ask about which printer to buy you can almost substitute lathe / mill and the brand names and they would be about the same, well except for the old USA iron bit, being much younger technology that is rapidly advancing there isn't much if any push to go with old machines.

There are lots of machines out there but the two that come to the top as far as recommendations are the Ender 3 (cheap, but works) and Prusa 3 (not so cheap, but comes with all the cool mods so you don't need to add them yourself). I get the impression the Ender 3 is the 7x14 mini-lathe of the 3D printers (except for size, the Ender is comparable to many others in that regard).

With the Ender 3 available for less than $200 it does seem to be a pretty painless choice. Don't feel bad though, because like I said above I've been interested for a long time and still suffering from massive analysis paralysis. Ender or Prusa, PLA or resin oh my. :)

BTW I had made a decision and was all set to get the Prusa i3 for my birthday (November) when you posted that damn CL ad, and my birthday present turned into 800lbs of cast iron milling machine instead. It is ok though, they will make more 3D printers, so maybe I'll get an Ender 3 for Christmas. Plus 3D printers are evolving so quickly that delays result in getting a machine that is cheaper, better or both. I'm also really digging the old mill.
 
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