Wiring help needed

Grinderman

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Hello,
New guy here looking for some electrical expertise. I’m trying to hook up a Marathon 1/2 hp 115V motor to a Dayton 2X440 drum switch. The motor has 4 wires connected to the terminal board/switch? The yellow and blue are the run windings I believe (1.6 ohms) and the red and black are start windings(4.7 ohms). The incoming line connects to the terminals with the studs/nuts. The motor works fine when connected to a power cord and reverses when red/black are switched.

I have tried a few different wiring diagrams without success. I can get the motor to run and reverse but it gets hot in a short time. I feel the start windings are not being taken out of the circuit after the motor starts but not sure. i’ve Enclosed a few pics of what I have. If you could shed some light on this it would be much appreciated. Looking for a simple to understand diagram by wire color if possible. The t1, p1,p2 stuff is all confusing to me.
Thanks in advanceE4A06BB2-682A-4296-A4FF-A0ABDE3F4564.jpegF0C2828E-07E9-4994-B0C6-6F5FCEF5F50B.jpegF0C2828E-07E9-4994-B0C6-6F5FCEF5F50B.jpeg7D501083-747D-41BF-AF1C-E2DBE62A8A53.jpeg
 

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There will be several fellows on here to help you get it going..you might try looking at old posts in the electrical section in the mean time..good luck
 
There will be several fellows on here to help you get it going..you might try looking at old posts in the electrical section in the mean time..good luck
Thanks for the reply. I have looked at a lot of the older posts but with all the different motors and switches it’s really confusing.
 
I'm guessing from your symptoms that the centrifugal start switch (in series with the start winding) is not working which is causing your motor to heat up after running for a bit.

If you have a clamp-on ammeter or a Kill-A-Watt you can check this. Motor start should have a fairly large inrush current and then drop suddenly and significantly when the motor approaches normal running speed. No significant decrease in amperage says start switch is bad.

Some are repairable but for a 1/2 HP motor replacement is probably cheaper than time spent disassembling/reassembling, presuming parts are available. You might luck out and find the start contacts are just welded closed and can be separated and dressed for some more service life.

Good Luck

Stu
 
I'm guessing from your symptoms that the centrifugal start switch (in series with the start winding) is not working which is causing your motor to heat up after running for a bit.

If you have a clamp-on ammeter or a Kill-A-Watt you can check this. Motor start should have a fairly large inrush current and then drop suddenly and significantly when the motor approaches normal running speed. No significant decrease in amperage says start switch is bad.

Some are repairable but for a 1/2 HP motor replacement is probably cheaper than time spent disassembling/reassembling, presuming parts are available. You might luck out and find the start contacts are just welded closed and can be separated and dressed for some more service life.

Good Luck

Stu
That’s correct but the motor works fine when just powered by a regular cord not connected thru the drum switch.
Looking at the diagram on the drum switch cover,it shows the start windings going to term 3/ 4, run to 1/5 and I’m assuming incoming power to 2/6.

My question is how do you physically accomplish this at the motor?
Do you:
Unplug the wires from the terminal board/switch and extend the start/run winding wires out to the switch?
Leave the wires plugged on and run new wires from there out to the switch?

This is the problem I’m having. How do you connect the wires to the drum switch and still have the centrifugal switch take the start windings out of the circuit after the motor starts.

Thanks for any advice
 
Ah, OK -

The fly wires are the run winding, the threaded studs are the start winding. When you set the motor direction by switching wires at the motor terminal board you are connecting the fly wires to the stud connections, which are connected to the power input.

To use the drum switch the only connections between the two should be made through the drum switch.

Extend the fly wires and the stud connections (four wires total) to the drum switch. your connections then are correct: "start windings going to term 3/ 4, run to 1/5 and I’m assuming incoming power to 2/6" . Right. (One winding to 3/4, other to 1/5, doesn't matter which winding goes where.)

Try that and see what happens. Here's the diagram from the drum switch data sheet that applies:

2X440_DrumSwitchConnections.jpg
 
Ah, OK -

The fly wires are the run winding, the threaded studs are the start winding. When you set the motor direction by switching wires at the motor terminal board you are connecting the fly wires to the stud connections, which are connected to the power input.

To use the drum switch the only connections between the two should be made through the drum switch.

Extend the fly wires and the stud connections (four wires total) to the drum switch. your connections then are correct: "start windings going to term 3/ 4, run to 1/5 and I’m assuming incoming power to 2/6" . Right. (One winding to 3/4, other to 1/5, doesn't matter which winding goes where.)

Try that and see what happens. Here's the diagram from the drum switch data sheet that applies:

View attachment 305378
Excuse my ignorance, but by fly wires I’m assuming you mean the wires coming out of the motor going to the terminal board??
You are saying then to disconnect the run and start winding wires from the terminal board and extend them to the drum switch??
By not having any wires on the terminal board/switch, wouldn’t that make the centrifugal switch not function at all?
 
Yes, the 'fly wires' I am referring to are the red and blue leads with female spade connectors on them. Those are (usually) the 'RUN' winding connections.

The 'START' winding is connected to the two threaded studs on the terminal block - and the centrifugal switch is hard-wired inside the motor to be in series with the start winding.

For a normal (non reversing) motor application you put the red and blue wires on the male spade connectors adjacent to the threaded studs and connect line power to the two threaded studs. To reverse the rotation you reverse the red and blue wires at the terminal board.

To use the drum switch you need access to both the START and RUN windings separately at the drum switch, so you have to bring out four wires from the motor - two for the threaded stud connections and then disconnect the blue and red from the terminal board and extend each of those wires out to the drum switch, then connect as you have indicated.

Hope that helps

Stu
 
Yes, the 'fly wires' I am referring to are the red and blue leads with female spade connectors on them. Those are (usually) the 'RUN' winding connections.

The 'START' winding is connected to the two threaded studs on the terminal block - and the centrifugal switch is hard-wired inside the motor to be in series with the start winding.

For a normal (non reversing) motor application you put the red and blue wires on the male spade connectors adjacent to the threaded studs and connect line power to the two threaded studs. To reverse the rotation you reverse the red and blue wires at the terminal board.

To use the drum switch you need access to both the START and RUN windings separately at the drum switch, so you have to bring out four wires from the motor - two for the threaded stud connections and then disconnect the blue and red from the terminal board and extend each of those wires out to the drum switch, then connect as you have indicated.

Hope that helps

Stu
On my motor I have 4 wires connected to the terminal board. A blue and yellow( 1.7 ohms between them) and a red and black(4.7 ohms between them. It says to reverse rotation switch red and black (which does work). I assumed the red black were the start windings, am I wrong?
Thanks you so much for your input
 
Grinderman: Is your motor a dual-voltage type? (120/240V)
Mark
 
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