Logan 200 bearings and gears

If you payed $500.00 for it, you've got some headroom there for repairs. Logan parts aren't cheap, but at least they're available,
which is better than a lot of the old lathes.

When you get around to taking the headstock apart, you could look at a post where I documented the work on mine:
There may be some information there that will be helpful for you. (You'll notice that for some reason, that thread was corrupted with posts from
other folks). If you do a search, there are some other folks that have posted work on their Model 200's as well that might be
useful for you.

This link will be useful for you when you adjust the back gear assembly.
 
Ok, so this is as far as I got before life distracted me.
I'm seeking advice on which is the best way to get the bearing off the spindle and out of the head stock casting.
 

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Have look at posts #16 and 17 in my write up: they explain what I did. Basically, you need to remove the nut that secures
the bearing to the shaft and then press the bearing off. You should be able to press or tap the smaller bearing out of the
headstock without too much difficulty.
 
Ok, so I need to take the key (the little bit to the left on the pic) out of the spindle and remove the part thats behind the double row bearing from what im seeing. I have it soaking with PB blaster at the moment for lack of kroil.
Does it matter which direction the rear bearing gets pressed out from? I cant tell if there is a shoulder or anything in the casting. I'm going to clean it up a bit more before trying to press it out.
 
just a question b4 you run out in buy new bearings... any chance its just dried crusty grease that's your issue? id try cleaning them out and regreasing b4 I spent any money... soak them in some solvent for a few days... get that crusty old stuff out of there...

and your right you can braze up a misssing gear tooth and file the profile back b4 u spend 100s on a new one...
 
Ok, so I need to take the key (the little bit to the left on the pic) out of the spindle and remove the part thats behind the double row bearing from what im seeing. I have it soaking with PB blaster at the moment for lack of kroil.
Does it matter which direction the rear bearing gets pressed out from? I cant tell if there is a shoulder or anything in the casting. I'm going to clean it up a bit more before trying to press it out.


Yes, remove any keys first. The circular part behind the bearing is a threaded nut and will unscrew after you loosen it.
It's slotted for a hook spanner, but I used a hammer and a punch. I found that heating the nut with a heat gun helped to get it moving. The shaft has a shoulder that the bearing is pressed up to, so press the bearing off towards the opposite (smaller) end of the shaft.
 
its possible a wrench for a grinder wheel might fit that round nut.... I tried my grinder wrench it didn't fit but I know other manufacters use different pin sizes.. just a thought I had to use a pin and hammer too and I don't like doing that kinda thing as it makes a mess of the pin holes
 
So, does your nut have pin holes drilled in it? Mine was slotted. You should be able to find the correct size of pin wrench online ,or one could be made.

Someone like this might have what you need: https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/produ...hand-tools/Hook-Spanners-and-Spanner-Wrenches
They sell metric stuff, but I found that a 40-42 mm sized wrench from them fit the small nut at the gear train end of the spindle perfectly.

DSCF7113_zpsxortgckp.jpg

If they don't have the size you need, someone else will.
 
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So, does your nut have pin holes drilled in it? Mine was slotted. You should be able to find the correct size of pin wrench online ,or one could be made.

Someone like this might have what you need: https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/produ...hand-tools/Hook-Spanners-and-Spanner-Wrenches
They sell metric stuff, but I found that a 40-42 mm sized wrench from them fit the small nut at the gear train end of the spindle perfectly.

View attachment 313213

If they don't have the size you need, someone else will.
I was referring to the one in behind the front bearing...with the holes on the side of the nut... yes im sure they make a wrench for it but most of us don't have it! and I hate buying tools that will never get used again! as I said above if a person had the right grinder wrench it might work...and yes ive seen grinder wrenches that pivot so the space between the to holes is adj... not too sure where u'd get it tho
 
Rambin : I was going to give the bearings a good cleaning before buying new ones, just figuring on the worst case. Im going to use square cast iron filler and a can of flux to rebuild the teeth. I've had better luck with that combo and cast iron vs brazing or nickel filler.
Nogoingback : The rear nut I have only has 1 pin hole. It came off with 2 light taps from a punch. The damage in the pic is existing, I did not do that to it lol
I'm more concerned with the ring thats sitting behind the bearing, unless i've been mixing up which parts were talking about.
Either way, thank you guys for all of your help!
 

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