833TV Received

Anxious to hear how it performs below 100 RPM.
 
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Got the Z power feed installed. With the DRO scales installed I put the feed stops on the left side of the column. The instructions mention the oiler lines being in the way but that's not the case on my mill. I didn't put any standoffs in place either. I'm going to put a little standoff on the power wire hold down to give it more clearance from the stop bracket and sensor when the head is near table.

Drilling the gear shaft and sleeve for the Z axis feed was interesting. I made sure I had the head low enough to still use the quill before I took the handle off. Of course, I misjudged the height of the vise and had to reinstall the old gear shaft and get the handle on enough so that I could raise it to drill. I also had everything measured and centered and started drilling the first hole for the pin only to find there was no way to hold the shaft tight. As you can see in the picture I had to fashion up some way to hold it with what I could find in the pile of stuff that I moved to get this mill in place. It worked perfectly albeit quite unconventional.

The Z motor is right up against the back right column bolt. Tramming the nod will be interesting since I'll probably have to pull the motor off to get to that bolt.

Also is a pic of the power switches and outlets I installed. I used a 20 amp double-pole switch for both. The last outlet in one circuit is right by the machine so I ran to a box and installed two outlets that are switched for all the mill accessories. Two switches to turn it all on and off.

I've been talking with Greg at Priest Tools about his power drawbar. The spacing is tight between the spindle and motor mount but I think I can make it work. I'll have to modify his mounting plates or make my own. I'll probably start another thread once I get started on that.

I have the cover off the front of the mill. Greg's power drawbar has to be over the spindle and the case over the drawbar that the mill comes with is much to tall. I've got a BP style quill stop and Mitutoyo quill DRO to install. Once those are installed I'm going to have a custom faceplate made that will be built around those two items.
 

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Hey Brian - Congrats on the new mill. I have the 833T and picked up a Mitutoyo quill DRO that I haven't yet installed. Looking forward to seeing how you install it with a custom face plate. Been spending most of my time on the 1340 GT chambering barrels. Thinking about a chamber flush system. Peck and clean on the chamber reamer is getting old - but good results.

The 833 does have a long drawbar engagement. I bought a cordless electric ratchet and keep it on my toolbox next to the mill - dedicated to the drawbar. Not quite a power drawbar, but it does speed things up.

You mentioned tramming the nod of of the head. How would you do that on the 833? I thought the only way was shimming the column?
 
Yes, shimming the column is the only way.

The power drawbar I ordered from Greg has a longer drawbar in it so I'm going to hold off on the length for now. I think I'll have to modify his baseplate to get it to fit the 833. We'll see, though.

I made a lot of chips today. That thing is crazy messy! I went to the aluminum scrap yard and picked up a block 9" x 9" square of 5/8". My plan is to replace the cast iron ring around the spindle that they used for the stop. The ring was put on before the spindle so it has to be cut off. I'm waiting to do that until I have my aluminum one made.

I tried boring the ~3.5" hole with a boring tool in the mill. What a PITA. To do that I had to figure out how to clamp it to the table. The clamps (they're pretty slick) I bought were too big for the T-slot so I had to cut each of those down. Of course, I discovered my good fit was a bit too tight depending on which slot I used.

I gave up on the boring tool and chucked it in the 4 jaw on the 1340GT and made quick work of it. Having Mark's proximity stop was great so I didn't have to look from the side to see how far I'd gone in. The next step was to cut the plate in half with my Makita carbide blade. Of course, the block was too big so I had to take parts off the saw stand and use clamps to get it cut. Then, I spent way too much time milling the halves down to width. I should have but it back on the saw but it was cutting slow so I may need a new blade. Those things are spendy.

So, I think I've got it all done and will double check it all tomorrow. Then, cut off the cast iron ring with, I'm guessing, a cutoff tools in the dremel. We'll see how that goes. But, once it's on the mill then I can figure out how best to mount the stop and DRO and then order a new faceplate.

I'll post pics tomorrow of the new collar once it's in place.
 
I got the collar installed today. For something so simple it took a long time to make!

The cast iron ring had to be cut halfway through with a dremel cutoff wheel and then I was able to crack it off.

I've left the front sticking out across the whole width for now and I still have to drill/tap the plate for the stop rod. Of course, I've got to get a 1/2-20 bottom tap. I can probably get a couple thread with a spiral tap. I've got to mount the collar the rod rides in to the bottom front of the head. I haven't decided if I'll run that through the faceplate or mount it and have a cutout in plate. The top mount for the DRO will have to be mounted to the faceplate so having a cutout for the stop collar isn't necessary since I'll have to remove the DRO screws anyway to take off the plate.

Once I've got the stop rod mounted I'll figure out exactly where the DRO will go. I'll need to measure how much the DRO will stand off the faceplate and I'll mill the front of the collar down to size and remove most of what's standing out from the face of the mill. I'll only have what I need for the stop rod sticking out so it will look much cleaner.

I've got the new faceplate designed. I like simple so it just says PM833TV in blue and the serial number and mfg. date are smaller in the lower right hand corner. I planned on leaving the top cover off to install a power drawbar which will make the faceplate shorter. I'm still confirming with Greg whether I need to top cover or not. Once confirmed, I'll order the plate and get it all finished.
 

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Man, that is slick! I guess I need a rotary table now unless I could use the 6” super spacer that I’ve yet to remove from its crate.
 
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Not sure this will help but might be inspiration.
Definitely inspiring. I have an old rotary table that I will clean up and make ready for the job as soon as I get the other initial install work on the PM-833T. Expecting delivery on Tuesday.

David, what CAD software do you use for your drawings?

Ariel
 
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