Threaded chuck is stuck

I have locked the spindle so no gears are engaged. Ive removed the Chuck before so I know which wat of has to come pdf.
 
I have locked the spindle so no gears are engaged. Ive removed the Chuck before so I know which wat of has to come pdf.
OK, it just seems to me that if you're lifting the end of the wood that is pointing down that it's tightening the chuck. Or at least it would be on my lathe.
 
OK, it just seems to me that if you're lifting the end of the wood that is pointing down that it's tightening the chuck. Or at least it would be on my lathe.
I agree with DavidR8 that you are probably further tightening it based on your photo. Most chucks I've seen in my limited experience tighten against the direction of the cutting tool. Otherwise, the tool's cutting action would tend to unscrew the chuck when heavy cuts are taken. Hope that's it.
 
I would have to agree with DavidR8, It looks to me like you are tightening it. If it was a left hand thread like you are trying to turn it, the chuck would be coming loose and threading off the spindle while you were turning or threading a part. I had a threaded spindle lathe and disabled the reverse switch so there was no way I would be tempted to run the spindle backwards just for that reason.

D
 
Wait... if the spindle is reverse threaded (as I expect it is...) and you're lifting the lathe in this configuration then it seems to me that you're further tightening the chuck.
I had a 5" chuck well stuck on my South Bend and I had to spin the chuck backwards to break it loose.
I don't think it is reversed, I just think it is being tightened. If it is lifting from the side the pictures were taken, it is tightening the chuck. The side that the apron controls are on should be going down while the spindle is locked. With the spindle locked and the plate being turned the way it would into a tool, the back plate or face plate should break free of the spindle.

joe
 
I'll try this tomorrow but i done have high holes as the 6 foot cheater bar didnt work..

I agree that from the picture it sure looks like you are turning it the wrong way to take it off... That was the first thing that came to my mind when I saw it.

Ted
 
acetone and ATF fluid (1:1 ratio, and it does not have a good shelf-life).
I can remember when this Acetone and ATF started being talked about and it is rubbish. The original recipe was 50/50 ATF and Kerosene. AFT and Acetone don't mix.
To verify this mix up some ATF & Acetone ,shake/stir well and leave overnight in a glass jar. Do the same with the ATF/Kero/Diesel mix. Check again after a week.
A good mix is 1:1:1 ATF:Kerosene:Diesel and yes I know Kerosene and Diesel are very close but I have been searching for the perfect penetrating fluid for decades and this one works. Add 10% by volume Isopropyl alcohol after mixing for a faster penetration.
If Alcohol is added it has to be kept in an airtight vessel.
 
michieltje,
I agree with the comments about the thread. If you can bolt a bar across the face place a substantial piece of timber on the back way and jog the motor in high gear in reverse. Safest way is set it up ,stand back and flick the power on and off at the wall. Sometimes it might take two or three whacks.

A note on heat. When you heat something like a nut/sleeve etc it will expand, unfortunately they usually shrink a little on cooling making things tighter. The amount of heat needed to get meaningful expansion can be quite considerable.
 
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The amount of heat needed to get meaningful expansion can be quite considerable.

.....and you are working awfully close to the headstock bearing to apply much heat.
-brino
 
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