Bandsaw problem

jwmay

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My bandsaw has a bad cylinder. I've got one ordered finally, because I've been through three blades in as many months. My first blade lasted a couple years. So let me try to describe the problem, and you all can tell me if I'm on the right track. When it's cutting, the blade seems to skip/slip on the drive wheel. It was fairly well built up with chips, so I cleaned all that out. I make the blade as tight as my hands will endure. So when the blade meets the work, I get this strange sort of vibration/shaking throughout the whole saw. Holding up the descending end, and lowering it manually at a ridiculously slow rate, will keep it from going crazy. So... ordered the cylinder, ordered a new blade, went through the whole saw and tightened any and all bolts I could find. Tried to establish if there was any play in the pivot rod. It seems solid. Am I on the right track? I cut mostly 2" hot rolled bar stock, cast iron, and some 1" aluminum plate. All big stuff. I cut sub one inch stuff by hand hack saw usually.
 
Could your drive wheel have a "rubber tire" on it? That would absorb a bit of the 'shakes'. A piece of old innertube (are they still available?) glued on, might do.
 
Idk. I can try it. I'm wondering if maybe the drive wheel is burnished. They probably sell a tire that would fit. Thanks!
 
I'd start by checking with a dail indicator to see if either the drive or idler wheel have any eccentricity, or loose bearings.
Not sure what part you're referring to as a cylinder. I'm assuming this is a horizontal from your text
 
When you pulled the blade did you check the guide rollers, like for roughness and spinning free?
 
Yeah I'm sorry. It's a Grizzly 7x12" horizontal bandsaw. I was talking about the hydraulic down feed cylinder.
All the rollers spin free. They do seem a little too free spinning actually. But not gritty or locked up.
 
I'd start by checking with a dail indicator to see if either the drive or idler wheel have any eccentricity, or loose bearings.
Will do. I took the blade off and spun/flexed everything by hand. It all seemed solid. I didn't use an indicator though.
 
I have basically the same saw. My guide bearings were worn out also, pretty cheap on ebay. The down feed cylinder should be re-buildable, and it could be that just the bleed valve is bad.
 
My guide bearings were worn out also, pretty cheap on ebay. The down feed cylinder should be re-buildable, and it could be that just the bleed valve is bad.
Before replacing the guide bearings, were you experiencing strange shaking/vibration?
 
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