Tool and cutter grinder build

I pass the mistakes of as revisions :rofl:. This was revision number 1. Oh... I have bad days.... I just try to forget them so I can move on. I tried to make something simple a short time ago and after screwing it up the third time , I threw it in the trash can and made something else.:whiteflag: I am my own worst critic. The slightest flaw that no one else will see will drive me crazy and that is difficult to live with. Tomorrow is another day and I am going to machine in my own shop if it is warm enough.


If you were a baseball player Mark, you'd be the best player... most of them strike out 7 out of 10 times!!!!!

if you feel that you have struck out on just one job( or just having a bad day:angry:), you just might me expecting too much to bat .1000 everytime. :))

chin up, and keep making magic for us to see!
mike:))

P.S.
when i mess up and have to do repairs for my mistake, i call it CUSTOMIZED, Operationally Engineered , or Retrofit !!!:jester:
 
That looks good, wish you had gotten a couple of pictures but at least it looks good and another step done. Good Job.

Kvt
 
That looks good, wish you had gotten a couple of pictures but at least it looks good and another step done. Good Job.

Kvt


I'm sorry. sometimes I get going and forget you all are waiting for photos. So tell me if I am doing a part you want more photos of.

feet 2.jpg This is what a good counterbore looks like.

feet 4.jpg These are the feet with the stubs that go into the counterbores. If needed they can be adapted to adjustable leveling feet later.

feet.jpg This is the feet installed and they look really good.

feet1.jpg This is the bad counterbore. I know you all probably think it is fine but it is not perfect like the other two and my OCD, perfectionist, mindset doesn't like it.

feet3.jpg These are the end blocks showing the counterbores in the bottom. Making the feet like this makes for a very sturdy setup as a bolt goes up through them with a "pretty" acorn nut on top.

feet 2.jpg feet 4.jpg feet.jpg feet1.jpg feet3.jpg
 
Looking good Mark. How are you doing with the print interpretation?

"Billy G"
 
Looking good Mark. How are you doing with the print interpretation?

"Billy G"

Much better ,thank you. I have saved some pictures and read everything I could find on the net and got many questions answered. Slowly things come together and make sense. These are the most difficult to follow prints I have ever seen. I am really starting to enjoy this build now.:))
 
Today was a good day. It was warm enough to work in my own shop using my own machines and it felt good. I wanted to start making the front bar micrometer as it is one of the more difficult items. Everything has to be perfect to be sure to achieve the accuracy of a good micrometer. I decided to use the Quorn micrometer setup as it is simple and much easier. The Bonelle micrometer is way over engineered. There are three main parts to the micrometer. The barrel , the shaft , and the thimble. I am adding a ball bearing to the setup on each end to reduce friction and make the micrometer smoother.




micrometer parts.jpg These are the three main parts of the micrometer. I didn't take a lot of machining photos because most of it was simple turning and facing. All the dimensions are held to .0005" for the part surfaces that "fit" to one another. I want to have an accurate and smooth micrometer, so careful attention here will get me there. The first part machined was the barrel. It was simple turn and face but the size is held to 1" =/- .005". I tapped it with a good sharp tap. That way I can make the threaded shaft to fit and have a class 2 or preferably class 3 fit on the threads. I also turned a .040" boss on the end of the barrel to register in the base . This was held to a really close fit also.

drilling jig 1.jpg The second part to make is the threaded shaft for the micrometer. The cross drill jig I built from plans (I got from Jim B.) came in real handy here. I turned the shaft, the step for the thimble, and threaded the shaft in one setup to keep everything exactly concentric. This is important to the smooth operation of the micrometer. Next using the drill jig, I made a cross hole .189" diameter in the step. The diameter of this step is within a couple thousandths of the diameter of the barrel. This is because they both have to fit smoothly into the thimble and still turn freely. The cross hole will contain two 3/16" ball bearings separated by a spring. They will ride in a "detent" groove machined in the thimble to keep it in place and provide tight friction so the thimble can be zeroed but still rotates when the knob is turned. At final assembly I will assess whether or not a lock screw is needed on the thimble. If the design works right , it won't be needed.
drilling cross hole.jpg

threading micrometer shaft.jpg I used and adjustable die to thread the shaft instead of single pointing the threads. I did this because it was easier and I can still get a good fit on the threads by making small adjustments to the die until it is a perfect fit. It worked well. I would say I got between a class two and class three fit. That means the micrometer will be very accurate and smooth turning. I chose 1/2-20 threads. This will give me .050" per turn of the micrometer. There will be about .600" travel. A lot of travel is not needed as it is for minor adjustments to grind the tool.
finished micrometer shaft.jpg This is the threaded shaft completed. after the threading it was turned around in the chuck and the knob was knurled and faced to .375" width. Here you can see the .189" cross hole in the .250" step. the knob has been polished to a nice shine to look "pretty".


micrometer assembly.jpg This photo is the micrometer parts assembled. You can see the register boss here to keep it aligned in the base. There are no markings on it yet. This will be done later in the build. Hopefully, I remember to document it.

complete micrometer assembly.jpg This is the complete micrometer. I still have to drill the mounting holes in the barrel. This is next on my list.

Wrinkle finish paint.jpg I was asked about my choice of paint for finish. Many years ago ( as a teenager) I built a lot of electronic devices and ham radio equipment. I used a gray wrinkle finish on my things. It is a really cool looking finish and very durable. It is the same finish Kennedy tool boxes had on them. I always baked the part or used a heat lamp to "bake" the finish as it gives a more pronounced wrinkle and looks better. The paint came in brown, black, red, and gray. I have not seen it in years but Lowe's used to carry it. I went shopping last night and could not find it anywhere :panic:. Everyone knew what I was talking about ,but did not know if it was still available or where to get it. After a search on the web, I found it at the most unlikely place .... AUTOZONE! I'm glad I found it as I had my heart set on a black wrinkle finish. Yea , I may be a little :nuts:


For all those following this little adventure, I usually come in the house and set down to the computer about 8:00 or 9:00 pm EST

complete micrometer assembly.jpg drilling cross hole.jpg drilling jig 1.jpg micrometer assembly.jpg micrometer parts.jpg threading micrometer shaft.jpg Wrinkle finish paint.jpg finished micrometer shaft.jpg
 
I have been thinking about a motor for this grinder. I think the ideal motor would be a treadmill motor. Lots of power, speed, adjustable speed, and smaller in size. I am watching CL and eBay hoping to find one. If anyone has any other ideas for a powerful motor of a smaller size , let me know. 1/2 hp seems to be the favorite size, but I am afraid of the physical size.

What did you use Bill Gruby, when you built your grinder?



On another note: If I had it to do over, I would not have made that cutout in the base end where the micrometer bar goes through. If left the full 2" thick , there is more support ( not that there isn't enough anyway) , but there would be more room for the micrometer travel. Anyone who builds one of these , keep this in mind. ( I will add a note to my prints)
 
I have been thinking about a motor for this grinder. I think the ideal motor would be a treadmill motor. Lots of power, speed, adjustable speed, and smaller in size. I am watching CL and eBay hoping to find one. If anyone has any other ideas for a powerful motor of a smaller size , let me know. 1/2 hp seems to be the favorite size, but I am afraid of the physical size.

What did you use Bill Gruby, when you built your grinder?



On another note: If I had it to do over, I would not have made that cutout in the base end where the micrometer bar goes through. If left the full 2" thick , there is more support ( not that there isn't enough anyway) , but there would be more room for the micrometer travel. Anyone who builds one of these , keep this in mind. ( I will add a note to my prints)


Hi Mark, nice post on the bar micrometer. In reference to a motor, some of the guys on the Taig forum are using 3/4 HP servo motors on their mills made for industrial sewing machines. The Consew CS1000 to be specific - http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-CS-1...454?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item3cf0b5f18e

The motor even has T slots on the housing. There is high praise for these motors as to how well they run, decent low end torque, easy to modify and adapt. Let me know if you would want more specific info on setting up the controller and such if you want to explore going this route further and I'll go suss it out.

There is this one here too that has the controler seperate but a few more bucks.. Looks like the same servo motor - might be worth it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLDSTAR-GB...226?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item35e39f14a2

Mark
 
Hi Mark, nice post on the bar micrometer. In reference to a motor, some of the guys on the Taig forum are using 3/4 HP servo motors on their mills made for industrial sewing machines. The Consew CS1000 to be specific - http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-CS-1...454?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item3cf0b5f18e

The motor even has T slots on the housing. There is high praise for these motors as to how well they run, decent low end torque, easy to modify and adapt. Let me know if you would want more specific info on setting up the controller and such if you want to explore going this route further and I'll go suss it out.

There is this one here too that has the controler seperate but a few more bucks.. Looks like the same servo motor - might be worth it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLDSTAR-GB...226?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item35e39f14a2

Mark

This maybe a good option. gonna need more info. I wonder what size the shaft is? and you are right... they ain't cheap. I will consider this , but still watching for a deal.
 
Subscribed. It's nowhere near as complicated, but I've got Harold Hall's Grinder Rest project under way so this project will be interesting. You do great work - I'm sure it will turn out beautiful.

-Ryan
 
Back
Top