[How do I?] Advice to Make or repair this (pix)?

The reason the part fails is that customers will over fill the washer. This typically burns up the drive belt, but when the constriction is not quite enough to burn the belt, it creates a great deal of stress on the transmission, slowly wearing away that gear. Poor design could certainly be a factor. But design takes many factors into consideration. I can't overcome the design issue. I can only move forward from where I am. Thanks again for the words of wisdom, everyone. Keep it coming.
 
I was just at my local laundromat doing a comforter that doesn't fit in my machine- many of their machines were out of service- now I know why
Mark
ps you haven't mentioned cost yet- I suspect that this is a money-losing proposition no matter which way you approach it- sorry to be so negative
It is mostly a money-losing proposition. But we do what we are asked to do...
 
What happened to Whitmore's post? It has some good insight. I weighted and measured the metal, and it is .1385 lb/cu in. So probably about 26% zinc.
I also took a close look a the 'sliding U' and it doesn't have any play in it that I can detect. That was good advice.
If we solve a nation wide epidemic, I would be pleased. lol But I would be happy just fixing my small world.
 
If I was doing it, I would:

1) as suggested above find a way to mill out the old rack teeth, leaving a "pocket" such that a new rack plate could be fitted (bolted, pinned, soldered, adhesive, etc.)

2) make (or have made) a long "sheet" of replacement rack teeth. A horizontal mill with the proper gear cutter, or even a fly-cutter made from a lathe bit. Then slice these up into the size you need.

3) during re-assembly and during any maintenace visits, make sure the belt is slack enough to slip before much force is put on the transmission. You gotta have your "fuse" in the right place.

...just thinking out loud.....
-brino
 
If I was doing it, I would:

1) as suggested above find a way to mill out the old rack teeth, leaving a "pocket" such that a new rack plate could be fitted (bolted, pinned, soldered, adhesive, etc.)


There are some readily available rack gears from McMaster if you want to do some quick prototyping and testing.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#gears/=1blg1e2
 
What happened to Whitmore's post? It has some good insight. I weighted and measured the metal, and it is .1385 lb/cu in. So probably about 26% zinc.
I also took a close look a the 'sliding U' and it doesn't have any play in it that I can detect. That was good advice.
If we solve a nation wide epidemic, I would be pleased. lol But I would be happy just fixing my small world.

Do you mean post 19?
 
Just catching everyone up on what is happening. I have delivered the part to Groundhog. We have decided to pursue Idea #4 with some variations that were suggested. We will keep you posted as we go. We are currently trying to match the teeth with some prefab steel Rack Gear.
 
I think milling off the worn teeth and epoxy-ing a new rack piece will be your only feasible approach- there just isn't enough material there
to do anything else attachment-wise. Maybe a couple screws too..
Mark
 
Note: GenesisOfMoY brought the parts to me Saturday, so I have booth the stripped gear rack and the corresponding spur gear in my hot little hands.

I made some cad drawings today. Room for a couple of small (#8 undercut head) screws. Just need to make sure what pressure angle the gear is. Not a lot of gear racks available in the dimensions we need (everyone is selling metric or too narrow). I did find a perfect fit (will need to mill the thickness down) if we have a 20 degree pressure angle, but I am afraid it is a 25 degree pressure angle.
Will try to find someone with gear gauges tomorrow.
 
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