Boring wood on a Mill...?

EmilioG

EmilioG

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Can I use my Criterion boring head to bore .035" from 1/2" thick birch plywood without tearing it up?
Has anyone done this? Wax lubricant? I was thinking of also boring phenolic plywood, if it works.
Hose saws are not getting the correct ID.
 
Pretty much anything will tare up the hole short of a brand new razor sharp router bit spinning at 20,000rpm.
If you're using the mill, I'd find a forsner bit of the right size and go that route.
If you're just boring a few holes, set up your center mark and depth then clamp a sacrificial piece of wood on-top and drill through it into your work piece. That is the best way to avoid tareout.
 
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Can you use a boring head to bore wood:: yes

But, If I were boring only 0.035" from baltic birch, I would be sorely tempted to use a file, or a flapper disk on a drill.
 
I'm thinking of trying a drum sander on a drill press and hand sanding. It won't leave a perfectly round hole, but it's not that critical.
I'll try the boring head to see what happens, if it doesn't work, I'll hole saw another square and try the drum sander.
Curious to know if certain woods can be bored successfully. I also have some mahogany which is very hard.
The project is tool holding stands and bases.
 
A really sharpe HSS boring bar with some front rake and reasonable clearance should work. I've used HSS end mills to cut mortises in Cherry and other woods on the mill.

Greg
 
If you bore 1/2 way from each side you'll be fine. The problem comes from punching thru the bottom.
 
I'm with Shawn. I'd use a Forstner bit for that - clean hole in one go. Beats a hole saw and refining with a spindle sander.
 
I would use a Forstner but they don't come in 1.577"., nearest is 1.5" I need a 1.577" dia. hole size.
I'm very close. The drum sander should work, although not perfect. Thanks.
 
If it's critical, I would use the mill to make a template from acrylic or HDPE and using the template cut with the router using a high quality bit at high speed.
 
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