Bolts for mounting new chuck

Ah, safety switches - if the machine doesn't work without all three if your hands on them it's hard to hurt yourself with it...

You can join the brown and blue wires and it should work, the headstock shield has only ever got in the way, lathes I've used!

Dave H. (the other one)
 
I do not recall ever seeing these chuck-cover safety-devices on anything in production, or even in schools for training. I'm not against the gimmick, but for my work it's just a pain. Sorta like spring-loaded chuck-keys. I never get lazy and leave the key into the chuck, not even for a second as I don't allow myself to get into that habbit.

Today or tomorrow I'll pick up a soldering iron, and do a test with the brown & blue leads.
 
So!

The mystery thickens...

After purchasing some solder and an iron today, I got ready to attack the problem, then realized I am not actually sure which of the 50 connections, this wire pulled away from (and that's assuming it is not a red herring!)

I tried a few things, and no luck. I sure hope I do not have a dual-failure here. Did some posts on a mini-lathe group, but so far nothing concrete. I will probably contact King Industrial just in case they know where the blue wire is supposed to connect to. Or maybe I'll get super lucky and someone else who has a King 7x12 could pop off the electrical box cover on their own, and trace it for me. :p

My next plan is to find my old voltmeter (assuming I still have it and it works). As a double-check, I may try to look for an extra 5x20mm 5 Amp Fast Action fuse. The only problem is locally they only sell them in 120v form. I suppose I could order from LMS, but the shipping would be 5x the item cost. LOL

Speaking of FUSE, there is a suspicious glob of solder hanging against the fuse holder. Hmmmm......... a clue?

Who would have guessed how installing new chuck BOLTS would turn into something like this?

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mystery.jpg

numbers.jpg
fuse.jpg
 
Who would have guessed how installing new chuck BOLTS would turn into something like this?
You're not alone, it's part of learning or gaining experience and it does cost time and money but I'm sure that's no consolation to you right now.
I am totally clueless when it comes to solving electrical problems , let's hope someone can chime in and shed some light , are these the same fuses you're looking for? if they are, it'll take only 3 weeks to get here :
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5x20mm-Quic...454380?hash=item44195f55ac:g:yzgAAOSwHQ9WX7tt
 
Yup, that 240v looks like the type. Though I was planning just needed one or two, not a whole case-full of various sizes to last 20 life-times, LOL.

My electrical knowledge can certainly do with some enhancement, so one thing is for certain, I'll come out ahead here when this is finally solved. It seems odd that a 120v operating single-phase lathe would use 240v fuses, etc. but from what I understand, this is the norm with just about all mini-lathes. Either rated at 3A or 5A.

The following document has been quite an informative read for me:
https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/drivetroubleshooting.pdf

Very simple, but well written, and clean.
 
So, I finally found my old voltmeter today. Success!

But it was soooo full of corrosion inside from the batteries after sitting in there for years. Fail!

I will pick up some new batts, and see if I can get some life out of this thing still. If so, I'll see what else I can do to clean up some of the corrosion mess inside.

volts.JPG
 
Spent some time examining the blue-prints of wiring the circuit boards from LMS. Unfortunately, my KING seems to have gone off with a different way of wiring things up entirely. So no luck there.

I did find a B&W photo from the distributor, but it is very hard to ascertain what is going on as it's a poor B&W photo, and some wires are actually missing even. Grrrrr... at least I felt I was getting a little closer...

I may end up experimenting with my new Mill, and leaving my lathe as a side-project for now...

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Update!
Finally! Around 3 am we had some success. I was reading about a line interruption feature that can kick off if the system feels a power failure has occured. I believe this may have been tripping me up, and why I wasn't getting results when connecting the blue lead to the fuse as I had initially suspected.

Back to success for now, tomorrow I'll do the re-soldering, and see what else I manage to ruin in the process.

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So you got it working, that's great ,you must be relieved,it would be a good idea to take a few pictures of the wiring and save them for reference.
 
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