1/2 HP single phase

I figured I needed a switch that can run red no matter what. Like it can connect multiple connections at once.

I found this one (hope I am not breaking the rules posting this, sorry...)

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3378&category=

I am gonna check the local Fry's, they have stuff like that a lot of the time. Maybe save
a few bucks in the process...

Thanks everyone for the help. I do appreciate it.

--
 
All

I am running a 10 Amp fuse inline on the black (hot) connection from the wall.

It keeps burning the fuse on spin up of the motor. Should I be using a slow blow fuse or something like that?

What do others use?

Thanks

-greg
 
Generally, the 15 amp breaker that feeds the wall outlet should be sufficient protection. You only need to add smaller fuses if the device you're powering would be damaged by more than 15 amps AC.
 
Then I am reading the manual wrong. It states

"A 10A fuse should be fixed in front of the supply socket to maintain short circuit protection."

The supply socket must be something else. I am not understanding what they are referring to.
I figured this was the supply socket from the wall?

Unless it has something to do with the other motor that turns the drill/mill head. I don't have that
done yet and am only dealing with the lathe.

ok.

Thanks

-greg
 
Bear in mind that the motor was made in China for a wide market. Not all countries have the same regulations for house wiring that we take for granted. They just want to make sure there is some protection. The translated term "in front of" would normally be "before" here - on the supply side of the duplex receptacle (yes, that's what it's really called).
 
If the lathe has a threaded on chuck/spindle I'm not so sure I'd get overly concerned with reverse. I'm always a little concerned I'll unscrew the chuck running in reverse. That is a whole bunch of excitement I don't need. Only times I have used reverse is to back out a tap etc and that is just feathering the clutch. I could happily do without. When the drum switch goes out on mine unless I can find one cheap I'll probably just do it up 1 way with an emergency stop.

No more than I single point metric threads I can do without reverse even for that. Just switch out of back gear and turn the chuck. I usually end up hand turning to get to the end point anyway so I'll already be out of BG. It is a little handy to start reverse and slip the clutch but I could do without the couple times a year I need a thread I don't have a die for.

Make sure your switch has a mechanical interlock, so you can't go past the off position without meaning to. You don't want something to go wrong and you slap the machine from FWD to REV while it is running with the clutch engaged. Ungood! and with a threaded chuck a good way to drop it. There are also machine switches with separate interlocked buttons for FWD, stop, REV.

Steve
 
It does have a threaded chuck, but it also has 2 bolts that tighten down to hold it in place. Probably for the reasons you specify.

You are probably right as this is my first machine and one I am learning on. So I doubt I will be using reverse much if at all...

I guess going thru the rebuilding process I am just trying to get it back to stock and where it was originally.

Threading isn't something I have thought much about and that will probably be difficult on this machine. I don't think it has
any type of auto-feed or anything like that. Although I have thought about turning it into a CNC machine that would
likely be a wasted effort and not something I am prepared to do for a long time. I need to understand how to run the machine
manually before I go trying to automate anything.

Thanks for the help you guys!

-greg
 
Actually, with a single-phase motor running at speed, the only thing that will happen if you skip through 'Off' and put the switch into reverse is that it will continue to run in the same direction. The direction is initially set by the start winding, but only until the motor is going fast enough to open the centrifugal switch. The 'Run' windings are always connected to the same 'polarity'.
 
That is correct but it still doesn't stop. :)

I hadn't really thought of it, though I've wired several motors and should know it wouldn't go into reverse without restarting.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Steve
 
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