1/6th scale 1890's 30ft navy steam cutter (live steam)

tghsmith

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this project started 10 years back when I found the plan book for navy boats 1900,, 2 years ago I came in contact with a full scale steam expert who had the engine and engineering plans.. the 30ftr and 1/6th scale was decided on because a Stuart Turner compound twin engine block is very very close in size.. brass lost wax castings have been completed to convert the ST engine kit to the navy type engine.. while waiting on things, work on the hull brass and fittings has been started.. hope fully the arrival of my LMS 3990 mini mill will speed things up in the engineering dept..

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macardoso

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This is so cool. Please keep pictures coming!
 

tghsmith

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did some mill work today,, after making a set of support blocks the casting for the engine bed was leveled and trued.. frame mount pads and crank bearing surfaces machined along with the upper bearing blocks,, valve chest and covers received more work .. this maddness might work.. 289062 289063
 

tghsmith

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machined up a jig block to build the engine frames,, added some bolt holes and made clamps to hold everything in place will milling and soldering.. still need to make the truss rods.. waiting on a hardware package from the UK.. might as well keep it all the same tread type.. 289497 289498 289499 289501
 

macardoso

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Looking good! Will this actually run or is it a model?
 

tghsmith

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needed to work on some small (and round) parts,, clamped my unimat SL's milling table to the mills table,, used the spindle threaded t-post to mount a 3 jaw chuck,, what would have been an iffy job on the unimat was done in about 2 minutes..( the part is back on the unimat getting the final lathe 289672 work done..)
 

tghsmith

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sliced a finger monday in a non metal-working task.. maybe could have needed stitches, decided to just keep it wrapped well and stay away from oils and crud.. did have a small photo-etching project in the works,, the plus side you need to rubber glove to keep the parts clean and the chemicals off your skin.. the boiler makers plate at 1/6th scale is at the lower limit of home etching.. large-sized artwork needed to made in the reverse,, reduced on the computer,, transparencies printed,, to several attempts to get the correct exposure,, the third one looks to be the keeper,, just needs to sawn free with a jewelers saw and edges filed.. it will get tucked away untill the boiler is made.. IMGP0047.JPG IMGP0005 (3).JPG 20914410_268487233647922_556777891556999381_n (1).jpg
 

GDS12

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Could you describe the steps you used to do the metal plate etching? I am looking to doing a couple restorations of things that are missing similar plates that I think were brass...
 

tghsmith

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https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Mark-Pro-Etch-Photo-Etch-System_2 basically using a resist layer that protects metal while the etching solution removes metal from the unprotected areas,, a photo reactive layer is adhered to the metal, exposed to UV light while you have a negative of your image overlaying.. the areas were light hits harden,, a developer fluid removes the un-cured regions giving you an etch ready metal piece..
 

MSD0

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sliced a finger monday in a non metal-working task.. maybe could have needed stitches, decided to just keep it wrapped well and stay away from oils and crud.. did have a small photo-etching project in the works,, the plus side you need to rubber glove to keep the parts clean and the chemicals off your skin.. the boiler makers plate at 1/6th scale is at the lower limit of home etching.. large-sized artwork needed to made in the reverse,, reduced on the computer,, transparencies printed,, to several attempts to get the correct exposure,, the third one looks to be the keeper,, just needs to sawn free with a jewelers saw and edges filed.. it will get tucked away untill the boiler is made.. View attachment 291491 View attachment 291492 View attachment 291493
Super glue (cyanoacrylic) works pretty good for cuts.
 

tghsmith

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work was for stalled for a few months due to relocation of my workshop,, new shop is a bit smaller but it will have to do,, squared up my castings for the cross-head slippers,, then milled the areas that will ride on the frame slides, both were milled at the same time followed by filing and lapping for a nice fit.. If I hadn't added the DRO's to my little mill this would have taken much longer.. hopefully with the new shop space up and going progress will be a bit better engine.JPG
 

tghsmith

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did some drawing and think I have figured out how to make the connecting rods look like the navy engine and not a stuart,, the stock to make the rods arrived, started the built-up crankshaft, I milled up some width gauges to help with getting the webs correctly spaced.. all has been loctited and pinned waiting a few days before grinding, shaping,cutting and filing.. hoping to have the bottem-end of the engine together in a few weeks..
 

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tghsmith

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started working on the connecting rods,, the stirrup straps and small wedges will get interesting,, used my little lathe dog for the first time, I've had it for years it came with my lathe,, used a little "can" aluminum to protect the brass..
 

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Downunder Bob

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Great work I always admire these live steam models. The amount of power the produce is quite amazing.
 

tghsmith

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basically have the bottom end of this engine together,, completed the "navy" type connecting rods and crossheads.. had to add an 1/8" to the frame feet do to some frame connecting rod interference,, as on today with just the weight of the block holding things in place all is turning nice and smooth.. time to mark,drill and get this bolted together..
 

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Downunder Bob

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basically have the bottom end of this engine together,, completed the "navy" type connecting rods and crossheads.. had to add an 1/8" to the frame feet do to some frame connecting rod interference,, as on today with just the weight of the block holding things in place all is turning nice and smooth.. time to mark,drill and get this bolted together..
What are Navy type con rods? I've not heard the term before
 

tghsmith

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stuart turner con-rods as per plans have a bolt and nut on each side holding them to the crank,, the US navy during this time used a set of bearing blocks fixed to the con-rod with a strap and wedges,, most likely the idea was that if the bearings needed replacement a new set could be installed quickly with minimal shimming or other work needed.. still have a ton of finishing and cleanup work to do..
 

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