First,I am not a South Bend expert. I have used them once in a while,but have not owned one. But,I am well versed in inspecting a lathe for wear or abuse.
The lathe is so dark I can't tell wether it has power cross feed or not. It does not have a quick change gearbox,and that alone would keep me from buying it. It seems to be an older model,probably with the plain cast iron headstock bearings. I guess $1000.00 is not a bad price IF IT IS NOT WORN. But,you'll get tired of changing gears every time you want to cut a thread,and changing back when you want to resume fine feeding.
Plain cast iron spindle bearings can last over 30 years if the lathe was kept properly lubricated. But,there's no way to know its history. You can tell GROSS wear by putting a pry bar on a block of wood under the chuck for a fulcrum,and seeing if the chuck lifts up. Years ago,the maintenance guys in the museum asked me to tell them why their South Bend would not cut well. I found its chuck would lift up 1/8" !!!!! When pryed up. Remarkable how inept some otherwise experienced mechanics are with something as simple as that. Eventually they sold the lathe to get rid of it. Short of elaborate rebuilding,the lathe just was worn out. Probably never oiled for many years. I think I was the only person who EVER oiled any machinery around there. Or,changed planer blades or bandsaw blades,for that matter.
There is no way of knowing from the pictures how worn the bed is. On South Bends though,you can tell if the ways NEAR THE CHUCK are worn easily: A vertical ridge will develop at the apex of the inverted FRONT V way. This is because on S.B. lathes,they cut a "keyway" type groove at the apex of the FEMALE V in the carriage. The ways have nothing to touch there,so as they wear, the carriage just sinks down,leaving a little vertical "cliff" at the top of the front V on the lathe. If you can feel this with your fingernail,the lathe is not going to produce straight,true cylinders. Rather,the lathe will produce cylinders with slightly convex surfaces,like a wooden barrel(but not as exaggerated,of course!). This little vertical cliff can get pretty exaggerated the worse the wear is. I would not buy the lathe if it is there AT ALL. But,I am an accuracy freak. I had a doctor friend who had an immaculate heavy 10 S.B. lathe. But,it was worn enough that he did not even want to turn the locomotive drivers on it,on a large scale kit he was building. Certainly he could not have bored the cylinders with that lathe. It needed the bed recut,which,around here,even in the 80's,they wanted $1500.00 to do.
When I was in college in 1962, in machine shop class,they put me on an old South Bend with a "War Board" metal plate on it. That lathe had been run to death during the war,and cut cylinders .015" larger in the middle than at the ends,over a 2' distance.
Very likely,it would not have faced flat either. That lathe had the old style QC gearbox with the top mounted shifting lever. Made before the war.
My advice is this: Whenever I want to buy something expensive that I don't know a lot about,like an exotic gun,I get a friend who does know about the subject to go with me and look at the item. And bargain with the seller,too. With machine tools,you may not have such a friend,so check out what I have mentioned. AND,look at ALL the gears,especially the gears on the spindle. Make sure there are no broken off teeth. People are always breaking off the gears on the spindle( called the back gears) by locking the gears up,and trying to beat a stuck chuck off. Happens all the time with ham fisted operators who don't know better,or just don't care.