10 Inch Lathes**** Oldies But Goodies*** Need Your Opinions Asap

u guys are great ..found more info on serial #'s on websites than the SB website ... its seems evento the Flame hardened tag is not there u are saying X represents that?
Locate the third and final letter in the lathe serial number. This letter will tell you the type of swing in your lathe, the size of the spindle hole and if any special modifications were made to the product. This final letter in the serial number will read as "R", "L", "E", "D", "T", "X", "C" or "K."

now I know I got a bit excited but seems to me this lathe is going to hold up and do much more better than a china 10" anyone dis agree with that statement ?

ohh last Q im not gona have 3 phase 220 v only single phase am I scrapping the whole idea ? not sure what type of motor but from other descriptions most are 3 phase .......
I may be wrong about the "X" indicating harden bedways. But for some reason I read that somewhere (Steve's Southbend Lathe website), but now that you brought it up....

If you can, get a good look at the ways, look for bad gouges running linearly along the bed ways. If nice and smooth, that lathe has been taken care of. Rotate the spindle, it should nice and smooth. Check for slop in the cross feed screw and nut. Should not be too much. If all looks good, buy it!

As for 3-phase, don't let that stop you. A good VFD can be had for around $100 that will run the 3-phase motor on single phase current. Not a show stopper in my book. Still a hefty chunk of money to spend on a used sort of old lathe! But to own something that is not Asian made, you won't go wrong with the purchase.
Please go look at it before buying! Still not sure, let us know what you find and we'll try to help more.
 
get a vfd as said above, get one with more HP than the lathe needs, I have my one VFD hooked up to 2 machines, soon to be a third, its a 3hp model, if you have a test indicator put the point on the spindle face and push linear on the opposite end, note your reading, I believe SB says .001" max end play, also be sure and check the condition of the leadscrew, the one on my atlas is TOAST near the headstock, the threads are about half the width of the rest of the screw, it still works, threads accurately and feeds good
 
thanks Guys GREAT im good with all that . Thanks again for all your help
Again 2 -3 More Q's ..lol.. Im getting power out to garage that will be 220 Single phase My new mill will be single phase so most likely the Lathe is the only machine I may need a VFD for . Juts want to concur as the fela said above . If I get a VFD for 3 HP ill be ok for 3HP and less ill be all set with the 1hp South bend ?
anyone know good reasonable source to purchase and I better off getting new?
Now back to lathe bushing's bearings adjustment shims . What is best way to inspect them making sure lathe is tight running true .?
ohh I was also thinking of bringing thread gauge to check a few ranges in gear box make sure it haven't been monkeyed with . As u see that lathe does NOT have Fine carriage adj stop. o well can be nice project that ill be proud of when I make one already came up with a new idea .. But that's for latter down road..
all the other stuff ya can be darn sure ill be checking .. the way I am the sun wil be setting when we finial make the deal ...lol.... Last used car I purchased the guy came out and said im sure you know by know who makes all the parts.....

and last but not least Q anyone look at the south bend lathe a page back ?
http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/tls/5104380288.html
I think this is a 9" SB what ya all think?

This like one town away ..Got to go check my e mail on other computer as I enquired but this on Fri if he has I can buy it in 2 hours from now ..lol....
I woke up 5 am this am First thing came to my mind is getting a trailer to buy the 10" x 24 SB .. I need to go to work soon and let this settle a bit ask more Q's bout the 10 Heavy SB. Maybe check out the 9"??? should I get that size lathe out of my mind and stick with 10 inch???
anyways if its the Lords will in me purchasing any Lathe I am confident he will direct my steps and make it happen.. Just saying. Of course id like to hear from ya all too thanks again guys .

Edit*** Bonus Q ****
one fella on another forum stated this model would be a good lathe for size however would be restricted to about 1400 rpms do ya all know If I can I bump it up to at least 2800 Max rpm if lathe would handle it and a EZ way to get there ?
 
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That South Bend is late model,and has bronze bearings. The lever on the carriage instead of a star wheel is an easy way to tell it is a late model.

I have used South Bends some,but have never owned one. Thank's for the info on 19 threads. Myself,I never work on rolling blocks any way. But,my friend and journeyman Jon(worked with me in the toolmaker's shop) is always rebuilding large frame military Remington rolling blocks. He turns them into beautiful rifles indeed. I made him a 19 thread tap one time. Jon was always hesitant to make taps,I don't know why. I can turn one out pretty quick. We had a big Pro Master from MSC at work,that would make any thread you ever heard of. For some reason,it would make a thread TEN INCHES from crest to crest! What were you supposed to do with that? It was therefore great for making large wooden screws for things like the Book Binding Shop's book press. It had wooden threads about 1 1/4" wide. We mounted a router in the lathe at a 45 degree angle to cleanly cut those threads. Fortunately,wood threads have a 90º angle in them instead of the 60º angle of metal threads. So,the router worked out perfectly.

I can't find the book binding press screw,but here's the largest wooden screw I ever made. It is for a giant cider press for the museum. It is 12" in diameter,with threads 2" wide. Cut with the router. Made a of beechwood log.

The big bulbous part is 16" diameter,and would have 2 holes,5" in diameter cross drilled through it to insert a wooden "tommy bar" to tighten it.

This was in 1983.

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I run my 3/4hp Harig surface grinder on my mitsubishi d700 3hp vfd, it also runs my 3hp mill, later it will run my 1.5hp motor on the lathe that's not yet installed, over shoot the power requirement for future machines, you never know what good deal you might find on a machine with a 3phase motor

Take note that you can use a vfd that was meant to be powered by 3phase input power on single phase 220v, but you need to read up on doing it so you select the right amperage, also note that you can run a 3hp motor on a 1hp vfd, but your motor will only produce 1hp, a 3hp vfd running a 1hp motor will produce 1hp
 
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Is that you Sir in the screwy Pic... ? Vintage sir thanks for sharing .
"George thanks so much for your input.... I covet your responses. Learn so much from u guys...Where were ya at my old Co's? Btw I had one ole timer (not calling you Old sir ) But just saying ... the only thing I learned from him was how to do a 4 start Acme threads however that was after I did it....lol he went in for heart surgery and put me on his machine......

so ya have a phone # or should I drive down to Vir love to pick your brain.lol...... Regarding the 9 inch and comparing it to the Heavy 10 SB update The fella with the 9" wrote me back sent these pics .I called about 1/2 Hr awaiting a return call to get more details his wife said they had it 10 years of course bought it from al ole machinist .
what can you say about this model without serial # the tag says 9 x 3' 6" bed (42") from some quick research it looks to be maybe the
Model 9-inch "Workshop Lathe and the 9-inch or the "Workshop" Precision Lathe. Do you think its the later #405 Model ?

I can get it for $1000 or less as seen in pics not sure if he has collet closer but seems to have tooling for it . Dont think it has a 4 jaw chuck Bc don't see in the pics


what years do ya think it is ? what year and what type of head bearings does it have ?

should I stray away from it lean towards the heavy ten and or is there something better I should be looking at this size rigidly that perhaps may be able to get more Rpms out of ? some reason they caught my eye . the one guys 15 min away . Thanks so much for all your help I wanted to get a Lathe today but will wait on it to get the right one. Im a gona be patient George and respect your suggestions .


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I don't believe that is a model 405. Not with vee belt pulleys on the spindle.
I do believe that is a early 9" C built after 1939 but not after 1943-45. That's a high dollar number for a 9" SBL with loose change gears. But $300 worth of 1A or 3C collets makes up for some of the high number.
Just depend on how much wear the lathe has. Doesn't look bad from the pictures. Just got to go look at it and twist the knobs and mess with it.
 
if you look closely in the collet pic, there is a drawtube and nose adapter to hold the collets, looks like a nice setup. i would still buy a little newer machine, with roller bearings in the headstock, i would NEVER buy a lathe without them, theres nothing wrong with the SB bearings, they are proven machines, but its my preference
 
I don't believe that is a model 405. Not with vee belt pulleys on the spindle.
I do believe that is a early 9" C built after 1939 but not after 1943-45. That's a high dollar number for a 9" SBL with loose change gears. But $300 worth of 1A or 3C collets makes up for some of the high number.
Just depend on how much wear the lathe has. Doesn't look bad from the pictures. Just got to go look at it and twist the knobs and mess with it.



From more reading it may be the beefed up model the Gap Bed Model C after 1962 d .lol. which originally sold for $245. Not 100% on this but suspect it may be this model???


Thanks Guess im not goin to work today...lol... well will see if the fella calls back.... Love to take a peak .. I dont want to look yet till i get burned into my brain what is correct lathe for me to be looking at .. yea want my cake and eat it ... I wanted to buy new with some fast RMP ranges Id like something small but rigid machine that can do 4 Jaw face plate and collet work... But want a lathe that I wont have to worry about spindle bearings either .
Another words am I out of my mind should I be looking at something else???? Not a Southbend after all . This first love ( one of the lathes I learned on in Votec) has me stupid right now .
.... I am affarid im gona want it buy something and it wont be what I wanted . Sorry guys . Please knock some sense in me . Tell me like it is if she's not for me just say so . Ill get over it and move on .... last night if I was able to get a trailer, prob would have bought the 10x24 Heavy 10 SB if she felt good . . What do you think I should do ? I need a dang drink now ... or else better get to work .... this is consuming me ..need to think about something different and keep busy till the urge gows away ... fur now ill go find something to do....... thanks again awaiting replies ....
 
First,I am not a South Bend expert. I have used them once in a while,but have not owned one. But,I am well versed in inspecting a lathe for wear or abuse.

The lathe is so dark I can't tell wether it has power cross feed or not. It does not have a quick change gearbox,and that alone would keep me from buying it. It seems to be an older model,probably with the plain cast iron headstock bearings. I guess $1000.00 is not a bad price IF IT IS NOT WORN. But,you'll get tired of changing gears every time you want to cut a thread,and changing back when you want to resume fine feeding.

Plain cast iron spindle bearings can last over 30 years if the lathe was kept properly lubricated. But,there's no way to know its history. You can tell GROSS wear by putting a pry bar on a block of wood under the chuck for a fulcrum,and seeing if the chuck lifts up. Years ago,the maintenance guys in the museum asked me to tell them why their South Bend would not cut well. I found its chuck would lift up 1/8" !!!!! When pryed up. Remarkable how inept some otherwise experienced mechanics are with something as simple as that. Eventually they sold the lathe to get rid of it. Short of elaborate rebuilding,the lathe just was worn out. Probably never oiled for many years. I think I was the only person who EVER oiled any machinery around there. Or,changed planer blades or bandsaw blades,for that matter.

There is no way of knowing from the pictures how worn the bed is. On South Bends though,you can tell if the ways NEAR THE CHUCK are worn easily: A vertical ridge will develop at the apex of the inverted FRONT V way. This is because on S.B. lathes,they cut a "keyway" type groove at the apex of the FEMALE V in the carriage. The ways have nothing to touch there,so as they wear, the carriage just sinks down,leaving a little vertical "cliff" at the top of the front V on the lathe. If you can feel this with your fingernail,the lathe is not going to produce straight,true cylinders. Rather,the lathe will produce cylinders with slightly convex surfaces,like a wooden barrel(but not as exaggerated,of course!). This little vertical cliff can get pretty exaggerated the worse the wear is. I would not buy the lathe if it is there AT ALL. But,I am an accuracy freak. I had a doctor friend who had an immaculate heavy 10 S.B. lathe. But,it was worn enough that he did not even want to turn the locomotive drivers on it,on a large scale kit he was building. Certainly he could not have bored the cylinders with that lathe. It needed the bed recut,which,around here,even in the 80's,they wanted $1500.00 to do.

When I was in college in 1962, in machine shop class,they put me on an old South Bend with a "War Board" metal plate on it. That lathe had been run to death during the war,and cut cylinders .015" larger in the middle than at the ends,over a 2' distance.

Very likely,it would not have faced flat either. That lathe had the old style QC gearbox with the top mounted shifting lever. Made before the war.

My advice is this: Whenever I want to buy something expensive that I don't know a lot about,like an exotic gun,I get a friend who does know about the subject to go with me and look at the item. And bargain with the seller,too. With machine tools,you may not have such a friend,so check out what I have mentioned. AND,look at ALL the gears,especially the gears on the spindle. Make sure there are no broken off teeth. People are always breaking off the gears on the spindle( called the back gears) by locking the gears up,and trying to beat a stuck chuck off. Happens all the time with ham fisted operators who don't know better,or just don't care.
 
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