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1006/1007 quill lock

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epj

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The quill lock on my Grizzly 1007 no longer holds the quill from moving when using fly cutter. I have removed the two aluminum wedges that hold the quill and cleaned them. Even using a plastic hammer on the handle won’t hold it. Even if I hold the hand wheel the quill will move a few thousandths over six inches of table travel. This wasn’t a problem when the mill was new. Something has worn, but I can’t find what.
 
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epj

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The quill lock on my Grizzly 1007 no longer holds the quill from moving when using fly cutter. I have removed the two aluminum wedges that hold the quill and cleaned them. Even using a plastic hammer on the handle won’t hold it. Even if I hold the hand wheel the quill will move a few thousandths over six inches of table travel. This wasn’t a problem when the mill was new. Something has worn, but I can’t find what. The handwheel itself is also very sloppy. But it always has been. The thought of using the micrometer counter on it is absurd. I have replaced that function with an iGauging digital scale. But I do wonder if the slop in the handwheel may contribute to the problem. Any assistance greatly appreciated.
 

Eddyde

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Try a washer under the shoulder of the lock handle, this should prevent the threads from bottoming out prematurely.
 

RJSakowski

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Your mill is constructed very similar to my old mill/drill. The lock is accomplished by pulling the two cylinders with the beveled ends (P/N 325 & 326) by means of the cylinder lock lever (P/N 324). If the problem occurred after a reassembly, it is very likely tha one or both of the cylinders were installed backwards or at the wrong rotation. The bevel should be contacting the quill in both cases. If the problem occurred gradually over time, you could be running out the thread, in which case, an additional washer should do the trick. I would expect that this is unlikely, though as these are not moving parts.
 

epj

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Well, the threaded end is open, so no way to run out of threads. I did determine that the threads on the handle had a sticky spot, which i removed. It seems like maybe it’s tightening up better, but I’ll have to mill some steel to be sure. Actually it won’t even stay tight on aluminum.
 

epj

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Hummm. That’s possible. I’ll check that out.
 

Canuck75

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I have a King PDM30 mill/drill and found the pot metal sections of the quill lock only contacted the quill at a small point on each of the sections. Made new pieces as one from CRS with the radius matching the quill diameter exactly, then cut them apart at the halfway point. The lock now engages the quill fully. Your problem might be slippage under the duress of the interupted cut. Just a thought.
 

epj

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I’m sort of thinking along these lines. Maybe I need to order some new ones.
 

hman

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I have a G1007 myself. Just took a look at the "wedges." My best guess as to what's causing your problem is that the contact surfaces between the wedges and the quill have worn over time. This would require the wedges to be pulled into each other further and further, until <maybe> they run into each other, thus preventing further tightening. If it looks like this is the case with your mill, you could try filing some material off the "mating" faces of one or both of the wedges.

Hope this helps!
 

epj

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I trimmed the wedges a bit. Also cleaned up the rounded portion. So far I can’t tell any difference but I’ve only been taking some light cuts in aluminum with an end mill. We will see what happenes when I try fly cutting on some steel.
 

epj

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I ordered and received replacement “wedges”. Where I had tried to dress the curved area that mates with the quill, I couldn’t get the arc quite exact so they weren’t making complete contact with the quill. The new ones have a couple of high spots. The high spot is the only thing that makes contact. The lock is working better, but after a few more uses I’m going to take it apart and carefully dress the high spots. Bottom line is that I desperately need a knee mill. :)
 
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