1236 Questions

If i did it again i don't think it would be a grizzly (g4003G).... i think i would be getting a taiwan made lathe like the pm1340 or similar....

i do have to say since swapping the motor to 3 phase and adding a VFD , and a dro the lathe is much better. no more vibrations and it produces very nice finishes.
 
Hi Dman

The G4003G ($3,295) is made in China but if it was made in Taiwan it would be another $1,000. Their comparison chart will show the country under the Other Specifications section. The PM1340 is ISO 9002 Certified but I'm almost positive it's also made in China (Base Price $3,999)... a little higher than the G4003G but due to the size. It's the PM1340GT, which is their high precision model, that's made in Taiwan (Base Price $4,999)... there is that extra cost.

I've found there is an unspoken rule with lathes... somewhat joking but true... if they don't state the country right up front, it's China. If it's Taiwan, they say Taiwan... because of the higher precision, and to justify the higher price of course.
 
BTW Dman, you're absolutely correct about the motor and VFD. I planned on doing the same with the PM1236 at some point. I just need to do some research first since I have no clue what to get, etc.
 
Morgan RedHawk said:
Lol, yeah...that's how I ended up with a 1236 when I was looking at an 1127..you got to watch the guys around here...they'll do that...they did it to me...twice.
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Not me. I say get what you want, can afford, have space for, etc.. Some guys want to make drive shafts for tractors, others, a balance staff for a clock or a model engine. Lots of different ways to enjoy this hobby.

I can personally say that the VFD/3-phase motor/linked v-belt combo works really great though. :D
 
The base was not my design, it is one I copied from this site. Here is the thread I saw it in:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/buying-a-new-lathe.10217/page-3
Its about half way down and there is a drawing, too.

I like the base and if I had it to do over, I probably would not change the design. I had mine welded by a buddy who is a professional welder and he did a good job at minimizing the twist. I only had to use maybe .015 in shims. I don't know if it is possible to get it "perfectly" flat. Maybe a pipe fitter could. My buddy welds stuff like construction equipment and migged my base. He did a good job, I didn't even have to grind it. If you do decide to build one, wait until you have the machine to drill the holes. Sometimes they are not exactly in the same place as other people's machines.
 
Thanks Morgan. Apparently the stands that come with most lathes leave a lot to be desired. I'm wondering how much an advantage it would be to just make a complete frame out of 2x2 square tubing or even something larger. They would have to be significantly more stable and should reduce vibration as well. Here is a really nice stand made from 2x3 rectangular tubing... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/44274-Another-Lathe-Stand

I was also at Harbor Freight the other day and saw a U.S. General Pro 72" 18 Drawer Glossy Red Industrial Roller Cabinet (#61656) 71" x 22" x 42.5" high. It was expensive but built like a tank. Weighs 528 lbs. but has a total weight capacity of 4602 lbs. I'm not sure but thinking that might be too high? I believe the chip pan for the PM1236 is 61"L X 18" Deep but not sure about the height of the stand... would you mind letting me know when you get a chance? Thanks.
 
Well I run a 10x22 and it turns most of my stuff pretty good. I do/will go up to a 1236/1440 once I get heeled and back to work. But unless the 1236 is a step down from the G0602 then I can not see why Coolidge can not get good results. If I listened to everyone I would not even have a lathe or mill as in order to get a heavy full CNC w/power steering and AC would have been out of my space and price range. I use mine for repairs, fun, custom parts and tools.
Mark
 
65Cobra427SC said:
Thanks Morgan. Apparently the stands that come with most lathes leave a lot to be desired. I'm wondering how much an advantage it would be to just make a complete frame out of 2x2 square tubing or even something larger. They would have to be significantly more stable and should reduce vibration as well. Here is a really nice stand made from 2x3 rectangular tubing... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/44274-Another-Lathe-Stand

I was also at Harbor Freight the other day and saw a U.S. General Pro 72" 18 Drawer Glossy Red Industrial Roller Cabinet (#61656) 71" x 22" x 42.5" high. It was expensive but built like a tank. Weighs 528 lbs. but has a total weight capacity of 4602 lbs. I'm not sure but thinking that might be too high? I believe the chip pan for the PM1236 is 61"L X 18" Deep but not sure about the height of the stand... would you mind letting me know when you get a chance? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have the HF 72" chest that I turned into a workbench/hutch. I think you can see it in my PM-935 thread sitting behind my mill. Without casters it is a comfortable height for a bench.
 
I'm really enjoying this thread about "you really need a 16X60 in order to turn satisfactory hinge pins".
I owned, and used, a 9x20 for 10 years. I was able to do some very good work with it--after quite a bit of TLC & several mods.
I drive a 1/2 ton Dodge pickup. It will not carry as much as a PB, or KW, but I don't expect it to.
While in Alaska, I carried a Remington rifle for all my hunting needs. There were some who espoused that a PRE-64 Winchester was the only way to go--shoots straighter, kills deader, lasts longer, weighs less, etc ad nauseum. The moose never knew the difference.
But I digress.
Buy the lathe (or any other tool) that you want, and that you can afford, and move on down the highway of life. The remaining years go by too quickly to worry about what could have, should have, or might have been.

Jerry in LSD (Lower Slower Delaware)
 
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