1964 10EE lathe

Great write up. It's interesting how different companies dealt with oiling issues and how often they go bad when no one pays attention to the machine. My Smart Brown oil comes from the apron but the design seemed to be flawed in that oil seldom got all the way to the back ways. I found the plugged hole where the copper tube was inserted and drilled it out so now I can add some oil directly. the Monarch system looks to be better if the tubes aren't smashed. Dave
 
Great write up.
Dave,
Thanks. Keeping these oil systems working, either as built or modified, is really helpful to longevity. Monarch typically didn't provide automatic oiling to the compound. I have resorted to simply drilling through the compound, cutting some oil channels and inserting ball oilers on another lathe's compound.
 
Left, old brush from the DC motor. Right, replacement brush from Monarch. The old one was worn to the point it didn't really have spring pressure.

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Looking at putt the DC motor back together, including the reduction gearbox. Unfortunately the reduction gear needs to be repaired or replaced. Not much left of those teeth. Its not extremely hard as it cuts with a file, although probably a bit harder that 1018.
Probably not straightforward or cheapest, but tempted to try cutting a replacement myself.

I’m going to put thisback in the gearbox for now so I can test out the DC motor after cleanup, but replacement needs to happen before putting a load on this gear ...
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May be worth looking at, this listing has been around for years. If they had a year similar to your motor you also may be able to salvage other parts. probably other sources, you might also check with Karl to see what he plans to do with his gearbox from his single speed motor retrofit.

This is a direct link to there site, they may have other parts that they remove form the 10EE when they do their CNC conversions.
 
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Another gotcha on the DC motor. I was looking at reassembling the motor and hoisted the body of the motor back up onto the bench to clean. I noticed the wires that attached to the brushes were in bad shape, cracked from heat and badly corroded under the cracked area. Look closely where the lead with the eye is tied into the bundle. I figured easy enough, these wires go to the brushes, so they should be the A1 and A2 armature leads in the motor junction box. Not quite so simple, the A1 and A2 leads go two the two smaller poles in the motor, in series, then to the brushes. The two larger field poles are laminated, and have 4 leads each. The motor junction box has S1 and S2, F1 and F2, and a2, a3. a2 and a3 are connected in the junction box and taped over. F1 and F2 are the series field. S1 and S2 are presumable the shunt field as this is a complex wound DC motor. a2 and a3 are also part of the large field poles but no idea how. I need to map all the wires out. And then start replacing the heat damaged leads to the brushes. This is going to require some solder and heat shrink splices.

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I'm going to eventually put this all together, although it is a bit more than I hoped to have to deal with. I'm keeping my eye out for another 5HP DC motor with reduction gear from these things to have as a spare. I know there is one source near Cleveland Ohio, that @mksj referenced above, of someone who swaps them out as part of a commercial 10EE rebuild. Not in a hurry as I intend to fix this one, but I've invested enough in this that a spare seems prudent.
 
I have one to sell, but shipping would be too much for our distance.
 
I have one to sell, but shipping would be too much for our distance.
I do drive through Minnesota twice a year, but sounds like yours is a 3HP. I'd like to match the one I have.
 
I do drive through Minnesota twice a year, but sounds like yours is a 3HP. I'd like to match the one I have.
Resurrecting this old thread, Rabler. Please forgive me if I missed anything, but is there any reason you did not go with a Scissio Controls Spindle Control Module? It's a bolt on replacement for the Monarch controller. I was lucky, the 10EE I recently purchased already had the replacement solid state Thyratron Tube replacements installed and if the controller module were wonky, I would not hesitate to install the replacement Spindle Control Module from Scissio Controls.


Thanks,

Joe
 
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