Gents:
After going thru a lot of the entries on this sight and others for information about "Oil Leaks" I figured it was time to just tear the damn thing down and replace any of the seals I can get at, AND, while there replace the bearings.
I am sure others have wanted to do the same but run into a shortage of information too, so I want to add some of the things I run into here just to make more info available.
I'm not sure the pictures are going to load at the right place but I want to try to illustrate the text with some pics that I took so I would know how it came apart and be able to get it back together.
So here goes.
What I found is that there are three gear carrying shafts with bearings that are "Push Fit" into bores in the case and the cover. three shafts, 6 bearings (5 numbered 62002zz and 1 numbered 6007zz) [ZZ means they are shielded]. The 6007 is the big bearing that is on the shaft that mates to the motor. (That shaft holds the gear cluster that gives you the 1-2-3 positions with the lever on the left side of the face of the machine.)
Removing the cover is pretty straight forward, four bolts on the motor and lift it off. I removed the switch box so it would just hang on the power cable and lifted both out together. 6 bolts hold the cover down, remove them and turn the square headed screw on the top left clockwise to raise the cover. If your careful and bang it ,,,,,,,,,(actually, tap, tap, tap) a little all around as you pry up with a couple of screw drivers, the shafts will stay in the head, if they don't, thats why I got the pictures.
You will find oil that will need to go. The plug is just like drainingg your Dodge Dakota 360 engine, it's up in a pocket at the bottom of the head. Drain it out and try not to get too much in the palm of your hand, good luck. Now I know why I take the truck to someone to change that stinky stuff for me.
At this point I rotated the head to the 90 degree position because I am too lazy to climb up and down a ladder. Now for the first picture.
Hey that isn't so bad. You can see the three gear shafts on the left. The big bearing and the two small ones, there are three more small ones at the bottom of each shaft that you can't see yet.
The shaft on the right is the spndle and the only thing I needed here is to replace the seals you can see. There are two of them, one on top of the other. (4 lips total) You can also see the "Shift Arms" with the brass shoes, one at the top for H-L and one deep down in the bottm for 1-2-3.
Take the allen screw out of the shift arm and slide the shaft towards the front of the machine to give you some room to wiggle.
I found that the two middle shafts have to be wiggled out together til they clear the bearings at the bottom. The slider on the third shaft from the front (right) must be moved back and forth in the process. Lots of patience and pretending your an old duffer that knows what he is doing applies here. (I pretend that all the time, fools a lot of people). Eventually the 2nd shaft will come out first, set it up on the head and then continue to wiggle the 3rd one and it will come out for you. Lets try another picture.
The last shaft slides out with a little more wiggling.
I run the spindle down til the splined shaft was deep below the seals, jerked them out and then took off in the car to find some new ones. Believe it or not I found them locally (35X62X10) and they became the first thing to be fixed. There are two more seals around the "Shift Shafts" that I think were leaking too so they got replaced too. (12X22X7) two lip seals. Lets get a picture in of the big seals over the spindle, I figured if I replace all of the seals in the cavity that holds the oil it would make things a little less messy.
This is what things look like with everything out except the shift arm at the bottom. That thing just tips toward you as you slide the gear shaft out of its bottom bearing bore. I did take the arm off by removing the allen screw so I could get the shaft out to replace the seal at the front of the machine. Those screws that hold the arms to their shafts thread into the shaft itself. Pretty cool cause you don't have to worry about alignment, just screw them in.
The shafts have a clip on the outer end of them UNDER the seal. I say this now so when you put the new seal IN, the shaft has to be in place first. Don't ask me how I figured that one out.
From this point it is just a matter of replacing the bearings on the shaft ends, (They do press onto the shafts). After I got the bearings done I placed them in the "upside down" cover to wait for a new "Sight Window". When it is time to go back together you just reverse everytihing you did to get them out. Lots of "Wiggling" and sliding those gear sets back and forth will get it back. Patience.
By having the gears in this poistion you can see how everything works. You can play with the sliding gears and see how the different speeds work. Not too much different than a car transmission from years ago actually. Like those old manual transmissions you don't want to "Speed Shift" this sucker or you will bust out the brass shoes on the slider gears just like those old Chevy "Crash Boxes".
I will add a picture of my cure for the sight glass leaking tomorrow, it's too damn late and cold to go out in the garage now. The sight glass on it was a plastic piece of crap that just pressed into a hole that was full of paint keeping the o-ring from sealing. I cleaned the hole out and turned up a steel plug with a 1/2" pipe tapped hole in it. Pressed it into place with some "Locktite Goop" and then for good measure I run a 10-32 screw in it too hold it from spining (just in case .001" wasn't a tight enough press) when I screwed the new brass sight glass in place. Looks kind of like a big wart sticking out of the side of the head but i"m pretty sure it will work.
Oh yea, on that subject. I dumped in the "supposedly" correct oil (Mobile DTE68). Run the spindle at 1500 about 4 minutes before it started to foam. However, I did notice at the very bottom of the sight glass there was clear oil so, I wonder if just the top surface of the oil foams with it. Gonna run it anyhow, with the new bearings it seems a little quieter and the forks for the gears seem a little tighter. I'm happy.
So there is a little B.S. for your entertainment.
After going thru a lot of the entries on this sight and others for information about "Oil Leaks" I figured it was time to just tear the damn thing down and replace any of the seals I can get at, AND, while there replace the bearings.
I am sure others have wanted to do the same but run into a shortage of information too, so I want to add some of the things I run into here just to make more info available.
I'm not sure the pictures are going to load at the right place but I want to try to illustrate the text with some pics that I took so I would know how it came apart and be able to get it back together.
So here goes.
What I found is that there are three gear carrying shafts with bearings that are "Push Fit" into bores in the case and the cover. three shafts, 6 bearings (5 numbered 62002zz and 1 numbered 6007zz) [ZZ means they are shielded]. The 6007 is the big bearing that is on the shaft that mates to the motor. (That shaft holds the gear cluster that gives you the 1-2-3 positions with the lever on the left side of the face of the machine.)
Removing the cover is pretty straight forward, four bolts on the motor and lift it off. I removed the switch box so it would just hang on the power cable and lifted both out together. 6 bolts hold the cover down, remove them and turn the square headed screw on the top left clockwise to raise the cover. If your careful and bang it ,,,,,,,,,(actually, tap, tap, tap) a little all around as you pry up with a couple of screw drivers, the shafts will stay in the head, if they don't, thats why I got the pictures.
You will find oil that will need to go. The plug is just like drainingg your Dodge Dakota 360 engine, it's up in a pocket at the bottom of the head. Drain it out and try not to get too much in the palm of your hand, good luck. Now I know why I take the truck to someone to change that stinky stuff for me.
At this point I rotated the head to the 90 degree position because I am too lazy to climb up and down a ladder. Now for the first picture.
Hey that isn't so bad. You can see the three gear shafts on the left. The big bearing and the two small ones, there are three more small ones at the bottom of each shaft that you can't see yet.
The shaft on the right is the spndle and the only thing I needed here is to replace the seals you can see. There are two of them, one on top of the other. (4 lips total) You can also see the "Shift Arms" with the brass shoes, one at the top for H-L and one deep down in the bottm for 1-2-3.
Take the allen screw out of the shift arm and slide the shaft towards the front of the machine to give you some room to wiggle.
I found that the two middle shafts have to be wiggled out together til they clear the bearings at the bottom. The slider on the third shaft from the front (right) must be moved back and forth in the process. Lots of patience and pretending your an old duffer that knows what he is doing applies here. (I pretend that all the time, fools a lot of people). Eventually the 2nd shaft will come out first, set it up on the head and then continue to wiggle the 3rd one and it will come out for you. Lets try another picture.
The last shaft slides out with a little more wiggling.
I run the spindle down til the splined shaft was deep below the seals, jerked them out and then took off in the car to find some new ones. Believe it or not I found them locally (35X62X10) and they became the first thing to be fixed. There are two more seals around the "Shift Shafts" that I think were leaking too so they got replaced too. (12X22X7) two lip seals. Lets get a picture in of the big seals over the spindle, I figured if I replace all of the seals in the cavity that holds the oil it would make things a little less messy.
This is what things look like with everything out except the shift arm at the bottom. That thing just tips toward you as you slide the gear shaft out of its bottom bearing bore. I did take the arm off by removing the allen screw so I could get the shaft out to replace the seal at the front of the machine. Those screws that hold the arms to their shafts thread into the shaft itself. Pretty cool cause you don't have to worry about alignment, just screw them in.
The shafts have a clip on the outer end of them UNDER the seal. I say this now so when you put the new seal IN, the shaft has to be in place first. Don't ask me how I figured that one out.
From this point it is just a matter of replacing the bearings on the shaft ends, (They do press onto the shafts). After I got the bearings done I placed them in the "upside down" cover to wait for a new "Sight Window". When it is time to go back together you just reverse everytihing you did to get them out. Lots of "Wiggling" and sliding those gear sets back and forth will get it back. Patience.
By having the gears in this poistion you can see how everything works. You can play with the sliding gears and see how the different speeds work. Not too much different than a car transmission from years ago actually. Like those old manual transmissions you don't want to "Speed Shift" this sucker or you will bust out the brass shoes on the slider gears just like those old Chevy "Crash Boxes".
I will add a picture of my cure for the sight glass leaking tomorrow, it's too damn late and cold to go out in the garage now. The sight glass on it was a plastic piece of crap that just pressed into a hole that was full of paint keeping the o-ring from sealing. I cleaned the hole out and turned up a steel plug with a 1/2" pipe tapped hole in it. Pressed it into place with some "Locktite Goop" and then for good measure I run a 10-32 screw in it too hold it from spining (just in case .001" wasn't a tight enough press) when I screwed the new brass sight glass in place. Looks kind of like a big wart sticking out of the side of the head but i"m pretty sure it will work.
Oh yea, on that subject. I dumped in the "supposedly" correct oil (Mobile DTE68). Run the spindle at 1500 about 4 minutes before it started to foam. However, I did notice at the very bottom of the sight glass there was clear oil so, I wonder if just the top surface of the oil foams with it. Gonna run it anyhow, with the new bearings it seems a little quieter and the forks for the gears seem a little tighter. I'm happy.
So there is a little B.S. for your entertainment.
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