20 Foot Shipping Container Metal Shop

samthedog

Token Aussie
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I have recently moved and need to move my machines. I don't have the ability to build a garage as we are renting so the plan is to make a 20 foot container my shop. I will be getting the container this week (hopefully) and then will insulate it. The plan is to have an RPC to get 230 3 phase, and a transformer to step that up to 400 volt 3 phase as well. This way I'll have 230 and 400 volt three phase outlets in the container with 230 single phase as well.

I have needed to sell on some of my machines such as my lovely Wadkin tablesaw but I will still be keeping my combination machine (table saw, planer thicknesser, morticer and spindle moulder) and wood bandsaw.

Anyway, here is a list of the equipment I need to house in the container so that it functions as workable metal shop:
  • lathe
  • mill
  • metal bandsaw
  • combimachine
  • wood bandsaw
  • floor standing drill press
  • bench drill press
  • compressor
  • workbench
  • rolling bench with grinders
  • 2 x large tool chests
  • assorted plastic trays and containers
I am not sure how I will be housing all this but the plan is to insulate with styrofoam plates 2 inches thick. I will be gluing the wall studs and the ceiling battons on. I will be using OSB sheets for the walls as it can withstand loads and will enable me to screw into the walls to hold shelves and racks.

Anyway, I am looking for ideas specifically on how to hold the machines down in the container as I will be using it as a mobile workshop and will take it with me when we move next. I am keeping it certified for sea freight on the off chance I move countries and take the shop with me. Ideas, thoughts and comments are welcome.

Paul.
 
and for heat ? ? ? that seems to be a lot of stuff to jam in there. the saws and floor drill should be placed at about mid point (10 feet from front or back) two strips of lights about 18" in from walls, on both sides, full length. don't forget a exhaust fan and fresh air inlet. . . . .
thats quite a project looming in the dark, so to speak.
 
I considered using OSB for the interior walls of my converted carport, but opted for 3/8 BC plywood. Styrofoam is pretty good insulation. I used 5.375" slabs between the rafters. It is messy to work with. You'll have little white static charged specks everywhere for quite a while. I've found that a bandsaw is good for trimming foam to size.

You've probably already made your deal on the container, but I should mention that you can get an insulated refrigeration container that has insulated and skinned interior walls. The refrigeration compressors and stuff is removed. A friend who lives on the Gulf Coast got one for his shop.
 
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My workshop is an old reefer semi trailer with the chiller removed. I would recommend a 40' if you can swing it, because these things are narrow. Mine is about 7'8" wide inside. You have to put almost everything against the walls, and space goes fast that way. The walls are thin plywood, and I use furring strips as a frame to secure my pegboard. Conduit and shelves that support heavy items are screwed to the ribs. A shipping container is steel, whereas my trailer is steel framed with aluminum skin on the outside. I have to be careful not to punch all the way through with a screw.
 
and for heat ? ? ? that seems to be a lot of stuff to jam in there. the saws and floor drill should be placed at about mid point (10 feet from front or back) two strips of lights about 18" in from walls, on both sides, full length. don't forget a exhaust fan and fresh air inlet. . . . .
thats quite a project looming in the dark, so to speak.

Heat will be a small panel oil heater. Since it is so well sealed and insulated it won't require much to keep warm. I can't cut into the container as I want to retain the CSC certification in case I ship it later. I was thinking of LED spot downlights as they require very little electricity and have a longer life than flourescent tubes. I can get them quite cheap from IKEA and they will require less power which is a consideration since it is likely I will only have a 16 amp 230 volt supply.

I am having to thin oout my equipment substantially as I it will be a tight squeeze.

Paul.
 
My workshop is an old reefer semi trailer with the chiller removed. I would recommend a 40' if you can swing it, because these things are narrow. Mine is about 7'8" wide inside. You have to put almost everything against the walls, and space goes fast that way. The walls are thin plywood, and I use furring strips as a frame to secure my pegboard. Conduit and shelves that support heavy items are screwed to the ribs. A shipping container is steel, whereas my trailer is steel framed with aluminum skin on the outside. I have to be careful not to punch all the way through with a screw.

Unfortuantley I can't have a 40 footer as the neighbors will never forgive me. I just look at this as a challenge to showhorn 10 pounds into a 5 pound bag.

Paul.
 
My suggestion on the floor would be a couple of layers of osb T and G floor decking. Glue and and screw the decking and you will have a very solid floor. You can paint it with an epoxy paint and it will be bulletproof. Mount your machines directly to the osb. I am not sure what your budget is but spray in closed cell foam would fill every nook and cranny. It would also absorb sount well. Definitely bring in fresh air as mentioned above. Mitsubishi makes a Great Wall mount AC unit with a remote condenser that you could mount outside. If you have to move just disconnect the condenser and your off.

Good luck with the project.
 
Always wanted to try one of those for a shop!! I had a small one for storage a while back.--- In my experience at least, they will rust out starting at the top flat surface surprisingly quickly. Plan on putting some serious paint into protection. Maybe even adding some kind of "slope" to the roof? Splash from the water running off the top also rusted the bottom 6 to 10 inches. I guess they aren't supposed to last long in use and are discarded when they are deemed not suitable, so be careful you aren't getting one already on it's way out.
Please show it off to us before and after . :>) :>}
 
I was advised by a friend who rents construction storage containers and trailers to steer clear of anything but one-way containers.

It is a one way container nad has 4 1/2 years CSC certification so I expect it to hold together for at least that long. It production date was 6 months ago so it's like new. I'll still get up on the roof and ensure there is no rust and do touch-ups if necessary to keep it in shape.

My suggestion on the floor would be a couple of layers of osb T and G floor decking. Glue and and screw the decking and you will have a very solid floor. You can paint it with an epoxy paint and it will be bulletproof. Mount your machines directly to the osb. I am not sure what your budget is but spray in closed cell foam would fill every nook and cranny.

Here in Norway that kind of insulation is expensive. The styro is the cheapest I found. I am not settled on what to use on the floor but I like the idea of T&G and epoxy. As far as I know it already has marine grade ply flooring however I want a way to strap the machines down so adding a couple extra layers would be a great way to add thickness so I can screw the machines down.

Paul.
 
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