It needs to match the Acme thread form, not some gear spec. The thread to gear fit does not need to be exact, because there is normally a very light load to turn the dial. Make sure the shaft turns freely and without excess runout from wear. If it is mounted on an angle that matches the lead of the screw, then beveled teeth are not needed. If it is mounted 90 degrees to the lead screw, then you need beveled teeth to match the screw lead angle. Your photo appears to show beveled teeth.
Have you contacted LeBlond for spare parts? The gear would be made to circular pitch, although it may be able to be cut with a DP cutter or a fly cutter, in a spiral or just possibly at an angle, it does not have to be perfect.
They said they still had some parts and had drawings for all of them. I didnt ask the cost yet. I have to take the gear box apart also the feed speed handle just pulls right out lol was waiting to see if i need something special there or if i just could make it
I can't see from that picture where that handle came out of; is it from the feed box? I have a 19" Regal, which is very much the same as your 21", and have the manuals and parts book, I think. I would not be surprised if it has the same change box, which I suspect is perhaps the same as on mine; I have an extra one for parts. Also, I have charts for metric threading and diametral pitch leads on these lathes, and made myself a set of change gears for the purpose.
Yea its the liwest handle on the change gear box. It controls the feed speed. Would you be willing to share that info if you do have it? I have a telescopic taper attachment for parts if you need any. Does your lathe have a L0 taper on it?
Yes, of course, I will share any info that I have. My machine is probably earlier than yours, it is 1943, had the "war finish" and came off of a ship that was scrapped near here, so it had very little wear on it. It is equipped with a taper attachment in good working order, and has a threaded spindle nose; in my shop that I sold, I also had another Regal the same size, but with about 8 ft C-C, it did have the type L spindle nose. The one that I have now, at home also came with collets, but I had to make the draw tube. When I made the metric transposing setup, it would not fit in the gear guard, so I made a new on fabricated from steel sheet with a hinged door, making it much easier to change gears when necessary for special or metric threads. Another thing I did was to exchange a two speed motor for the one that I put on it when I bought it it (It originally would have come with a DC motor for shipboard use, but it had been removed by the machinery dealer before I bought it. The two speed motor allows me to have a top speed twice as fast as original. I found that prolonged operation at that high speed is bad on spindle bearings, as there is no provision for automatic oiling from the headstock, hence the Gits oilers at both ends of the spindle housing; this was an expensive lesson!
I thought about the 2 speed motor and my buddy that runs a electric motor shop told me no because the same thing. You heat em up and ruin them they arent designed for it. I would like to have a copy of anything you have as far as literature. Mine is a 1944 according to leblond thats why i orginially called them to find out the year so its close. That L taper is wierd to say the least leblond told me there is suppose to be a tapered sleeve that goes in the headstock to let it hold a mt4 center obviously dont have the sleeve but am working on making one on my monarch 12ck. Its just a .5 inch taper per inch od and mt4 id. Were the transposing gears hard? They just look like straight cut spur gears? If you wouldnt mind i would like to have some dimensions on those also if you dont care. Whatever you want to workout on it let me know
OK I will dig out what I have and scan or copy them. I like the L taper spindle better than the other type, there are not all the little crevices to keep clean of chips when changing chucks, but I am used to dealing with the threaded on chucks, except for having the chuck nearly thread off several times when using reverse to slow the lathe down. I do have the sleeve for my spindle taper, I think I used a MT 4 - 5 sleeve and cut it down. I had a Monarch 12CK at my shop, and really liked it, especially the lead screw reverse on the carriage and the thread stop on the cross feed. After owning my Regal for about 35 years, I finally got around to make a thread stop that clamps onto the cross feed dovetail with a stop rod that screws into a tapped hole in the face of the cross slide. The transposing gears were not a big job, you mainly need a 120 tooth gear fastened alongside a 127 tooth gear, plus a few extra change gears; the two gears go in place of the large idler gear on the end train. The hard part was to make an initial 127 tooth change gear in a finer pitch that would swing in my B&S dividing head so that it could be differential indexed, due to being a prime number, then using that change gear to set up my automatic gear cutter to cut the coarser pitch gear for the lathe, which is of course larger diameter than I could cut in the milling machine. Any help I can be, I would be happy to provide. firstname.lastname@example.org
I tried mt5 in my headstock and its to small i dont have any mt 6 around or i would try it. I have an ellis dividing head and a bunch of plates i can do all kinds of divisions but i would be doing it on a cinci no3 at my buddy's house. Gears dont sound bad to do really. I am also only familiar with threaded headstock spindles mainly southbend or smaller leblonds like a 13" regal. My monarch is d14 or d16 and i have never taken the chuck off so no other experience but i do understand what you are saying the taper doesnt leave much to clean to put it on. Do you have pictures of the dovetail thread stop? I really appreciate any help im always willing to learn more.