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3 axis RO with iGaging scales

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Bobf

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I posted before (Oct) about adding the scales to my 1952 Index 55. My original intention, keeping this low buck was to use the Shumatech DRO kit for a consolidated display. The kits were sold out so I made do with the iGaging individual readouts, and they work just fine.
Scott (Shumatech) decided to make another run of the DRO550's, so I ordered one with green displays. The kit is just the multi-layer pcb with all main ic's already soldered to the board. You have to solder the individual headers and readouts and several other components to the pcb, but all relatively simple. I ordered a case, mtg kit, and cable kit with iGaging compatible connectors from Wildhorse Innovations to complete the project.
I think I have less than $400 in the whole setup, including scales, kit and case and cables.

(Note in the photos I haven't removed the iGaging readouts yet, since they're magnetic mount I just left them)

IMG_1540.JPG IMG_1541.JPG
 

ric686

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Very nice! I'm getting ready to install the same iGaging scales and remote displays, but I'm thinking about making the leap to the DRO-550 display at the same time. Did you have any issues getting the scales to work with the DRO-550?
 

Bobf

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Did you have any issues getting the scales to work with the DRO-550?
No problem connecting the iGaging scales to the DRO. The easiest path is the one I followed, by using the Digi-key connectors in the DRO box. Just a matter of unplugging from the small readouts and into the DRO connectors. The DRO-550's as supplied by Scott don't have the 3.3v or clock signal required by the scales. He fixed that on the DRO-375's BUT they are no longer available.
The write-up on assembling the 550 shows how to jumper for the 3.3v and clock signal for the iGaging scales.

They're pretty much plug n play. The DRO should find and identify the scales as iGaging and set the clock correctly as "21 bit", however I just set it via the panel since they are the only scales I have connected.
 

ric686

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No problem connecting the iGaging scales to the DRO. The easiest path is the one I followed, by using the Digi-key connectors in the DRO box. Just a matter of unplugging from the small readouts and into the DRO connectors. The DRO-550's as supplied by Scott don't have the 3.3v or clock signal required by the scales. He fixed that on the DRO-375's BUT they are no longer available.
The write-up on assembling the 550 shows how to jumper for the 3.3v and clock signal for the iGaging scales.

They're pretty much plug n play. The DRO should find and identify the scales as iGaging and set the clock correctly as "21 bit", however I just set it via the panel since they are the only scales I have connected.
So you didn't get the connectors for the scales from Wildhorse? Do you have the Digi-key numbers for the connectors? Wildhorse now lists mini-USB as an option and I get the impression that those would work with the iGaging scales. I guess I'd better talk to Wildhorse before I place an order.
 

Bobf

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So you didn't get the connectors for the scales from Wildhorse? Do you have the Digi-key numbers for the connectors? Wildhorse now lists mini-USB as an option and I get the impression that those would work with the iGaging scales. I guess I'd better talk to Wildhorse before I place an order.
Yes, I did get everything needed to complete the kit from Gary, at Wildhorse Innovations. He billed me separately ($20) for the mini USB aka Digi-key) connectors besides the std cable kit. I also got the case pre-milled for what I have, and a mounting kit.
I don't have the Digi-key part# but it has been posted in various msg's I've seen.
 

bodaver32

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BobF, hoping you are around to catch my question.
The Shumatech instructions state the following for the clock timing, does this have to be done for every USB scale cable? So each scale cable has a jumper plugging into a pin on the header at J5?

Plug the yellow jumper you soldered to the USB scale cable and install it any of the RIGHT three pins on the four pin header you previously soldered in place at J5. The left-most pin is a ground. OpenDRO generates a clock signal that is appropriate for the iGaging scales and outputs it on all three PWM outputs. Without this clock, the iGaging scales will not generate an output signal for the DRO to read.
 

Bobf

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Yes, you have it correct, the clock needs to be sent out to each of the iGaging scales.
 

bodaver32

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Last night I completed the 3.3 v jumper and the clock jumper. Plugged my scales in and they all worked like they should. I now need to get it mounted into the enclosure and get it mounted on the mill.

Building the 550 is a fun project, but it has gone very smoothly up to this point (knocking on wood).
 

Bobf

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Glad your assy has gone well. When Scott dropped the price of the kits he had left I bought a second as a back up and use on my old monarch lathe. While you're doing the mounting of scales you might think about putting a scale on the quill also. I find it's easier to move the quill for small projects than cranking the heavy knee up/dwn. I ordered a Accuremote 12" stainless scale (iGaging) but it was too long for this purpose. I then ordered a 12" regular and shortened it to fit. I made some brackets from .080 Alum sheet and a collar for the bottom of the quill with a flat to hold the slider. I used the existing 1/4-20 screw holes to secure it to the quill so there are no new holes. Now I can just swap the mini USB connectors for the knee or quill into the "Z" port on the DRO550. Great for monitoring drilling hole depth also.

IMG_1548.JPG IMG_1550.JPG IMG_1547.JPG
 

bodaver32

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Bob, I like that set up. I may have to do that. I don't have a means to build the collar as of yet, but I hope to get a lathe within the next year or so.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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How did you shorten the stainless steel scale, thin abrasive blade??
 

Bobf

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Ed,
I initially set up the X,Y,Z axis with the original iGaging aluminum scales which are easily cut with a common hacksaw. When I decided to make a collar for the quill and mount a scale there I ordered one of their short ( I think) 12" alloy (stainless) scale. Turns out it was too long and I didn't know if I could cut it with a abrasive wheel in a die grinder. If I ruined the scale I would have to buy another so I just ordered one of the original type aluminum scales for the quill. I'm using the 12" alloy scale on a old Monarch lathe I have.
So the short answer is I don't know for sure as I have not attempted it. Sorry I can't be more help.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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I went to the Amazon site that I purchased the scales and someone commented on how he did it. he said they were to long and he cut the stainless one with a Dremel and abrasive wheel and worked fine. so that is what I will do maybe tomorrow if I can get to this job. What an asset on an old mill with a lot of play. I have a Burk Millrite. plus the other feature nice to be able to find center using the DRO's
 
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