3D Printer Build

Take a look at the youtube reviews for that printer. DIY3DTECH is a good source as well as TH3DStudio.

You will need a slicer software to convert your Fusion STL. files to gcode for the printer. Cura is free as well as a few others. I prefer SImplify3D but it is not free.

I have about $1,300 in parts for my printer. The major differences are the Duet Ethernet controller (32 bit), 1200w 400mm x 400mm 120vac silicone bed heater (3 min heat time), 1/4" MIC-6 aluminum build plate (precision ground), E3D hot end and extruder, larger steppers, heavier frame extrusions. I could have cut some cost by sourcing the linear rails/bearings from China but I chose a US supplier.

Also bigger is not always better. A smaller printer has less moving mass and the potential for higher precision/speeds. If this printer works well I may build a 200mm version.
 
I just started into the 3D printing world as well. After what I felt was some rather in-depth research on 3D printers, I settled on a Prusa I3 Mk2. Of course, one week after I got my Mk2, they announced the Mk3, but that is OK. The Prusa (from Josef Prusa in Prague, not a clone) is serving me very well and making some parts. I was originally going to get the CR-10, but decided on the Prusa because of support availability.

I have been using both Cura and Slic3r for my slicing software. I really like the Cura software but the Prusa comes with Slic3r Prusa Edition which has some baked-in settings specifically for the Prusa.

Love the PEI coated heated bed without the extra glass, etc. The new Prusa is going to be coming with a removable PEI heatbed that you can flex slightly and the prints will pop off. Planning on upgrading to that system in the near future.
 
Another lesson learned. I have everything configured but couldn't get the X & Y axis to move correctly. With the CoreXY setup both motors turn at the same time/amount to control the movements. The problem I was having was the Y axis would also move with a X command and visa versa. I was going nuts thinking it was a configuration setting.

Finally I marked the stepper motor shafts and watching the movement (should be equal) I discovered they were not moving the same amount. A check of the model numbers revealed I was sent mismatched motors. One is a 1.8 deg and the other is a 0.9 deg. UGH! Fortunately the Z axis is a 0.9 motor so I will swap that for now until I can get the correct motor for the Z.

Hopefully first test prints tomorrow!
 
I never would have figured that out! Good job.
I like your idea of the Core XY design in 200mm. That would be a good size for my needs. I assume you could always print two halves of and object and join them?
I'm thinking I may have a guy who could print parts for me.
How did you bond the silicone heater to the aluminum plate? Will you print right on that plate of have a layer of some kind?\
Regarding software- I don't see where Fusion 360 can export STL files? The files seem to be incompatible. Can it really work with Cura? What am I missing on that?
Robert
 
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Thanks Jbolt.

Then the software is a whole 'nuther mess. If I am using Fusion 360 will I need a program to generate G code as well?

Robert

Hi RWM:

Fusion 360 is relatively easy to work with. Actually, most CAD programs these days work well for exporting the correct file. On fusion 360, the very first line under "browser" on the left side is where your part is named. Right click on that line and and then 8 lines down in the menu that pops up will be "Save As STL" cue. Select where you want to export the file to, which I have a folder for STL files that will eventually be going to my 3D printer, and your done with that part. Once saved, you open your slicer program (Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D, etc) and select the file and it will slice it. Of course, you need to configure your slicer program to your printer, which I find is actually the most difficult aspect of the 3D world... trying to get your slicer program dialed in to your printer. Once done with the slicing, you can either save that file, which will now be a g-code file, either to an SD card for your 3d printer or send it from the computer to the 3d printer via USB cable. My Prusa has an SD card so I just load it onto that and then insert into my printer, that way my computer does not need to be on.
 
7milesup_ Great! Thanks for that tutorial. It works fine. I don't understand why that command is not under the Export tab also???
Robert
 
Right?!
I wondered too why it would not be under the export command. Took me a little while to figure it out. I find the forum help for Fusion to be excellent, along with the tutorials. My problem seems to be that i never have enough time in one day.
 
Success! Made the first print, a calibration cube. Axis calibration is good. Now it's just tuning the settings. I need to dial in the Z offset for the first layer and the extruder settings.

First cube.
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Second cube after some teaks. Stringing is better.
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A little more tuning and tweaking. Took me most of Sunday to do the POD tuning of the heaters. The powerful heater triggers an over=power warning in the firmware. I did several iterations reducing the PWM percentage until the warning went away but it was at a cost of way too slow heat up time which defeats the purpose of the powerful heater. I'm going to add a thermal fuse to the heater for safety and run the heater at 90% PWM. 20c to 80c in less than 5 minutes.

I'm really pleased on how this has turned out so far. The Duet controller, Reprap firmware and web based control console make tuning sooo much easier than Marlin.

The part on the right was done using the setting from the CR-10 which does okay with PETG but it leaves tons of whispy hairs on the CR-10. On the New printer it was a disaster. I tweaked the settings for the PETG for this printer and the second part on the left came out fantastic with almost zero stings, blobs or zits. Very nice. I'm also really liking printing directly on the aluminum plate.

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Short video of the printer in action.

 
Jbolt, would you be willing to make a hinge for an antique Cole machine door for me? I'm not sure what the material strength is that your using. Right now I'm trying to machine one and it's going to take some doing just for a simple hinge. The old one that I broke was cast and I'm trying to make it out of 1/2" steel plate but it's not simple shaped. Going to take some time but I thought if you could print one I would like to try it. It does go on the bottom of the door so it would have to be strong.
 
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