- Joined
- Jul 31, 2013
- Messages
- 17
4'' shop made rotary table (with prints)
Alright, i recently acquired a Sherline mill and thought it would be fun to make a rotary table for it. I got quite a lot of inspiration from this gentleman and his web site http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/rotary/rotary1.html This guy did a vary good job of explaining the whole process, from machining to assembly. so i wont bother with a lot of details about the project unless someone has a question. And i kind of rushed through the blueprints, so if im missing some important dimensions let me know.
Ill start with a parts list of the things i didn't make.
- Ball Bearing - Flanged (1/4" Bore, 1/2" OD) https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12611
- Timken Set2 ( LM11949 & LM11910) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071B0Y48/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Gear: (A 1B 6-N32060A) https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog
- Worm: (A 1 C55-55N32)
IMG_20140223_123055 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_112306 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_112341 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_111956 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_123127 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_123214 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140224_072516 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140302_092903 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140302_092921 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140302_092930 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
The dial is zero adjustable, just loosen the shcs and the white dial spins then just snug it up with your fingers and its locked in place again. i just wrote the numbers on with a sharpie (not in picture) until i feel the need to try to stamp them in. Also i wanted to say i made the worm handle assembly separate from the body so i could move it toward or away from the worm gear, to adjust backlash; Right now there is nearly zero backlash.
Here are the prints.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3IrEv9iYhGKdFBCSm51MmdtaW8/edit?usp=sharing
Alright, i recently acquired a Sherline mill and thought it would be fun to make a rotary table for it. I got quite a lot of inspiration from this gentleman and his web site http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/rotary/rotary1.html This guy did a vary good job of explaining the whole process, from machining to assembly. so i wont bother with a lot of details about the project unless someone has a question. And i kind of rushed through the blueprints, so if im missing some important dimensions let me know.
Ill start with a parts list of the things i didn't make.
- Ball Bearing - Flanged (1/4" Bore, 1/2" OD) https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12611
- Timken Set2 ( LM11949 & LM11910) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071B0Y48/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Gear: (A 1B 6-N32060A) https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog
- Worm: (A 1 C55-55N32)
IMG_20140223_123055 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_112306 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_112341 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_111956 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_123127 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140223_123214 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140224_072516 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140302_092903 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140302_092921 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
IMG_20140302_092930 by fast_67ford, on Flickr
The dial is zero adjustable, just loosen the shcs and the white dial spins then just snug it up with your fingers and its locked in place again. i just wrote the numbers on with a sharpie (not in picture) until i feel the need to try to stamp them in. Also i wanted to say i made the worm handle assembly separate from the body so i could move it toward or away from the worm gear, to adjust backlash; Right now there is nearly zero backlash.
Here are the prints.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3IrEv9iYhGKdFBCSm51MmdtaW8/edit?usp=sharing
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