40 Taper removal Cincy Toolmaster 1D

Uglydog

Uglydog

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I picked up the 1D.
Got everything working today including the powerfeed!
No chips yet.
Maybe next week....

Need help getting the 40taper to Cincy Monoset out as I've got a nice selection of NMTB 40tapers.

I have no manual so I'm guessing how this works.
She is stuck and I don't want to get her wrong!

1. Raise the spindle manually.
2. Put the dial direction selector in "S" for spindle.
3. Lower the spindle manually until the push button on the direction selector seats itself in the drawbar.
4. Manually raise the spindle until the spindle doesn't raise any further.
5. Insert the wrench on the drawbar flats.
6. Standing in front of the mill move the wrench to the Left (Right hand thread.

She is sticking badly.
I've seen threads on other forums recommend a hammer and/or a cheater bar.
Am I supposed to engage a spindle break, stand on my right leg or flap my arms like a chicken or anything special to get this to loosen?

Suggestions?
Thank you.

Other than the really bad baby blue paint brush living room paint paint job, and not having been looked at for maybe 10years she really is in remarkable condition.

Suggestions on getting the forty taper loose?
Thank you.

Daryl
MN
 
No advice, but pics would be nice.
Stanley cup is on now.... what a rout, Pittsburg is hot, and Nashville is cold...
 
Good luck with the machine.

I don't remember a Stanley cup getting this ugly in a few years. A little frustration on Nashville's part is driving a lot of cheap shots and penalty time.
 
Very nice acquisition. I hope it all checks out well. You've even got the covers over the Reeves drive.

Removing spindle tooling? I think the tool ejector is very positive - I doubt the tool holder is actually really, really stuck.
On my 1D:
- raise the quill all the way up
- then rotate the spindle until the lock fork up top pushes all the way in
- tighten the quill lock nut at the bottom of the spindle
- use the thin wrench that goes into the flat slot at the lower end of the spindle (I ended up purchasing a "valve" wrench off e-bay)
- there will be an initial effort to get the draw bolt to come loose, then it will turn easy perhaps 2 turns.
- then it will get tight again as the drawbar pushes down on the tool holder (if the quill lock nut isn't tight it will simply push the quill down)
- the tool will suddenly drop about 1/4" and hang on the drawbar - from there it is easy.

Let us know how it works out. David
 
Got her out late yesturday afternoon following this process.
Used a cheater bar on the 9inch OEM open end wrench.
She squeaked and squawked.
No rust anywhere. Merely a heavy film of very dry oil.

Huge thanks!!

Daryl
MN
 
Must have been tighten up on a day where the shop temperature was around -40 degrees F and the spindle temperature was at 105 degrees F.:eek:

Nice find Daryl!
 
Getting the 40taper out of the quill might have been what finally sheared off the roll pin that controls the power down/up feed.
Evidently a common problem on the 1D.
Took me two days to find the problem and get it replaced.
Like many things, now that I know how to do it, it would only take several hours....
Follow the steps in the repair manual, yes you need to lift but not remove the motor and vari-speed drive. You do not need to remove it. Merely only access the cavity below.
Release the set screws and holding the helical vertical drive to the powerfeed. Then lift the helical assembly it lifts out. I spent hours trying to figure this out.
Remove the power down/up feed transmission and you are looking at gear that may appear intact. Mine had a sheared 3/16" roll pin.
No further disassembly of the head or pf is required.
Replace the pin and reassemble.

The repair manual is exactly correct. However, it was unclear on a few points which I've tried to highlight above.
Complicating my project was the really bad paint job which required that I dig the paint out of every hex head.........

Daryl
MN
 
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